20214 (1988) Kenmore Range - Instructions

I removed the 4 screws that held on the front panel as well as the knob of the defective switch. With the panel free, I pulled the wire connections from the rear of the switch with needle-nose pliers. I then removed the 2 screws which secured the switch and removed it. I then reversed the process with the new switch. It could not have been easier.

pull oven, remove back pannel and unplug and remove high limit switch. Repair was the reverse of removal.

The hardest part was breaking the caulk seal between the range and the cabinet. An extra set of hands made the job easier, by holding the panel while I connected the switch. The switch was delivered promptly and I am very happy with Parts Select. I found the other repair stories very helpful.

Removed two screws near the hinges and removed door and laid it on counter.
As we removed screws from each part of the door, we stacked the parts in the order removed. Tossed screws into a shallow pan for safekeeping.
Removed old seal and put new one in its place.
Reassembled parts in reverse order as I cleaned each one.
Put door back on the hinges and the job was done.
Would have been a much quicker job, but door had 24 years of dribbles down in it, and needed a good cleaning.

We ordered a new element also, as the old one had blown up. Very gratifying to know there were still parts for my favorite old range.

The hardest part of the repair was getting the old cruddy screws out of the old element. They were sort of "baked-in". Once we got the screws out the rest was really easy. Just inserted the element prongs & screwed the new ones in. Ordering & receiving the part was a snap...I would recommend your company to anyone. Thank you.

remove two screws, pull out element, diconnect two wires, toss old element,plug in wires to new element, replace two screws and viola- done

Now if you just sold faucet parts I'd be all set.

needed hammer to help loose screws .pulled out and replaced leement

I had a service guy come in and he told me the repair would be $550.00. I asked for a part list and did it myself. You guys saved me hundreds of dollars.

First checked to see if there was power to the heating element. There was , so I knew the element was bad. I ordered a new heating element and it came in 3 days! I removed the two screws that held the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Reversed the procedure with new element. Turned on oven and my wife cooked a delicious meatloaf.

As described elsewhere. If the two retaining screws are rusty, order new ones with the element. They are expensive, so take them out and check before placing the element order. Save time and shipping costs.

First thing
disconnect from electricity
Remove the back cover by unscrewing its fixing screws
Using philips screw driver, To remove the scocket assembly, pull the tow electric wires from the socket, using a fine plier.
Open the oven door and unlock the glass cover and remove it.
Remove the 2 screws fixjing the socket from inside the oven.
Now the socket is ready to be disassembled by just pushing the clips with tow fingers.
Replace the socket and do same steps in reverse way.
insert the lamp, and the glass cover, connect the electricity and you are done.

Much to my horror, what was described as a simple, 15-minute replacement, took 3 days! In order to replace the oven door gasket, I had to disassemble the entire door. Every photo I saw of the gasket showed it as a flexible part: gently pull out the old one and push in the new. What I received in my order had a frame. In order to replace it, I needed to unscrew the door parts. Unfortunately, I made a few rookie errors, primarily because I kept thinking the next screw would release the gasket frame. So I neglected to keep track of the screws I removed, and I didn’t take any photos!
I must have used half a roll of masking tape to keep parts together; I did not have 5 hands! When I released everything and nestled in the frame, I had even more trouble replacing all the screws I took out. The majority of holes did not line up. So I just did the best I could, put in as many screws as I could. But after three days of working, I finally finished. It all held together, and the door did what it was designed to do. Really a repair horror. And I am not an incompetent novice!

Ordered the leveling bolts, very fast shipping, parts correct as shown. Purchased a condo by the shore, frige had no levelers, they went in smoothly & was done in no time.
Steve

Removed two nut screws (accessed with oven door open) with nutdriver, panel dropped out. Transferred wiring one-by-one to new switch, removed old switch with allen wrench, installed new switch, replaced panel. Done! However, the problem is not corrected and all other possibilities have been explored with no solution in site. Ideas needed.

Opened oven door, took four screws out of the front control panel, removed the two screws holding the burner control switch to the front panel, removed the wires from the old switch one at a time and installed them on the new switch. secured the new switch to the front panel, put the four screws back into the front panel, and closed the oven door. Real easy repair.