20214 (1988) Kenmore Range - Instructions

James is an electrician so he istalled the part himself

Just followed the instructions on this site... :) Unscrewed the front, removed old unit taking care of which wires went where, put in new unit. Voila.

Your site helped me determine the problem. You included a video of how to do the repair. The replacement of the parts went just as expected. The parts came quickly and were the correct parts. I could not have asked for a better experience. (I replaced two switches because the knob was loose on the othe one).. Thanks.

removed front of range door. removed old seal and replaced with new seal. clean and reassemble range door. repair very simple and fast.

Left door attached to range. Took out all screws on door to get to the door seal. Cleaned parts as I went. Took out old seal and laid new seal in. Had to get two more hands to hold the parts and glass together while screwing it back together. Only hard part was remembering which screws went where. Looks and works like new. So glad I did it, as it has needed it for a long time. Easy even for a 70 year old female. PartSelect had the best price even with shipping. Thanks

opened the door; put 12 penny nails in each hinge through the holes for it, removed screws above hinges; slid door off; laid it on a towel on the workbench; removed side/top/bottom screws and laid the outer door aside. removed the screws from the inside of the door, laid the inside glass aside, removed the glass assembly (broken), cleaned the loose glass out, laid the new glass assembly in place, replaced the panels and screws and slid the door on the hinges, removed the nails and closed the door. 35 minutes. Never did it before4. Part fit great! Thanks to partselect for having the discontinued part!

The repair was straight forward. Remove about a million screws and several layers. The only challenge was loosening some baked on screws in the innermost layer. Repair would have been less than an hour if not for those screws. Key advice is to pay attention to the order that each layer went back on. My oven/stove is about 25 years old, but works great. The part was backordered at a local appliance part store from May to ???. I ordered it at PartSelect and it was also backordered for a couple of months. I got it delivered to my home from PartSelect before it ever came in from the local store.

Used a multimeter to determine that power was going to the surface burner infinite switch. Then determined that power was not going from the output side of the switch to the burner element. Turned power to range off at the breaker box. Removed eight screws total on range top, four on the cartridge side, two located on back of control plate where the downdraft vent is located and two on the double fixed burner side. Raised the range top to gain access to the infinite switch assemblies. Removed to torx head screws retaining the infinite switch and then disconnected the five wires on the bottom one at a time, making sure to replace in the exact location on the new switch. Installed torx screws in the new switch and installed all screws back into range top. Reinstalled cartridge and burners and turned power back on. Tested rear burner and all functioned properly.

My 31 yr. old grandson very carefully took the whole door apart. Took out the broken window and put the new one back in. He was very careful to put every screw back in the original hole. It took him exactly one hour.

The basic replacement of the bad seal went fairly well. Just had to follow the other guidance and pay close attention to the correct sequence so that the door goes back together as it should be. The only real difficult part was when attempting to hold the hinge downward so that the door could be properly placed back on the hinges. After closer examination I discovered that there were two holes in each of the hinges that when they were opened all the way that the holes lined up and I cut off two nails approx 2 inches long and then once I was able to pry the two hinges all the way opened and then I used them to slip in through the two holes and they worked just fine and they held the door open, until the door could be re-installed. Once installed the nail/pins could be easily removed with some needle nose pliers.

Turned off power to range. Removed oven racks and the two screws holding heating unit in. Pulled out unit and used a small screw driver to aid in pushing the 2 clips off so I didn't have to pull on the wires. Removed unit and connected new unit and reinstalled the two screws. Turned on power. Took about 12 mins. John

Removed the two screws holding the element in place. Pulled the element forward and disconnected the two wires connected to the element, pushed wires back on new element and replaced the two screws. (Done)

Placed new knob directly on post. No problem

For those with an older Jenn-Air, this range has stood up under the test of time and is still in good condition. We even called Jenn-Air for the parts and they no longer carry the oven door seal for this make. Thank you PartSelect for carrying the seal. We did call in a repair man and are glad we did as taking apart the door was quite involved. We were very blessed to locate a repair man who did Jenn-Air and are very pleased with the repair.

Removed 2 mount screws, slid element toward me to expose the wire attachment to the spades on the loop. Reversed the process with the new element and installed the screws.