1985818151 Kenmore Freezer - Instructions

New parts matched up perfectly. Undid screws holding old igniter, hardest part of procedure because one screw was frozen and broke off. Pulled stove out and new igniter"s connector was identical. Pushed stove back into place and it lighted on the first try.

I pretty much did the repair the same way the video described it. I first turned off the gas valve and disconnected the power. Then removed the two screws holding in the burner tube and removed it. Then I unplugged the old igniter. The screws were a bit corroded so I gave them a little spray of liquid wrench. They came right out them. After removing them I replaced the igniter plugged it in. Then I put the wire through the hole in the wall of the oven. Replaced the insulation that was included in the kit. Replaced the burner tube on the venture. And reinstalled the screws. It was pretty cut and dry. The glow plug had the burner fired up in 15 seconds.

Removed bottom tray of oven, unscrewed gas pipe, removed old igniter and replaced it. Spent some extra time digging around for leads, etc. before discovering that my new igniter was identical to the old one and all I had to do was plug it in.

removed cover, disconnected small water tube and disconnected electrical connections. Reversed above to install new piece. two nutdrivers required. Channel locks for supply hoses.

The repair was straight forward. Turn off gas, unplug stove. Remove the oven door by opening slightly and lifting straight up. The bottom plate lifts from the back. Remove two screws and plug; install new unit. Turn everything back on; proceed with baking...

It looked like an easy fix. the igniter had a plastic clip. A simple R&R. Removed old igniter from its mount, removed plate to get access to wires, removed insulation. Tried to pull the old wires out of its location. It was hung up and I spent 1/2 hr. trying to free it. No go. I thought I'd have to remove oven from its cabinet. I removed six screws and it would not come forward. I felt the under side of the oven thru lower door of cabinet and found out that was where gas was connected. No way was I disconnecting the gas. Pushed oven back in, reinstalled screws and decided to cut old wires and splice in the new igniter. WENT BACK AND READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! Supplied were 4 ceramic wire nuts. Then the light bulb went on! OKAY! I got a marker and marked the top wire on the old igniter to identify it after I cut the wires as close to the back of the old igniter as I could with a pair of side cutters. I then cut the wires as close as I could to the plastic clip on the new igniter. Striped off 3/8 in. from all wire ends and spliced the wires together using the wire nuts. I stuffed the wires as far as possible back into the hole they came from, replaced all old and some new insulation into the hole. The supplied cover would not work, screw holes would not line up and would have fit poorly. I reused the old hole cover. Screwed new igniter to its mount. Turned on the oven and thought I screwed up. I waited about 30 seconds before I saw it start to glow. WHEW! I got it right! After a few more seconds, the gas came on and the oven burner ignited. The really hard part was putting the oven door back on its mount. That door was heavy and wouldn't line up on the first try.......
Maybe if I read the instructions thoroughly the first time before I started, I could have cut my time in half and saved a lot of cussin'. CUTTING THE WIRES WAS AN "OPTION"! That's why they supplied the ceramic wire nuts!....... Dinner is in the oven right now. Smells good!

I first removed oven racks.then I removed bottom of oven by sliding locks,then lifting out bottom.Next I removed screw holding e. control cove,then removed cover.Igniter plug was exposed,I then unpluged egniter. I next removed 2 screws holding burner and igniter .I removed igniter and burner as a unit. removed 1 screw from igniter,and replaced igniter on burner.Then assembled every thing in reverse order,and tested Oven worked perfectly.

We turned off the water, removed the hot and cold water hoses from the machine, then unscrewed the metal plate on the back of our washer that was covering the water inlet valve. Next we removed the output hose and pulled out the inlet valve. As we unhooked each electrical wire we immediatley hooked it to the same location on the new inlet valve. Then we rehooked the out put hose and reversed our steps to finish the job. Before putting the plate cover back over the inlet valve we filled the machine with cold water and ran it through all cycles to make sure we didn't have any leaks. The pictures/insturctions that came with the new part were helpful.

This was the first repair job that our 20 year old Maytag washer has needed, and it was nice to be able to do the job ourselves. Reading other customers's repair stories on your web site helped us diagnose our problem. I found it easy to locate and order the right part and it arrived two days after being ordered.

Other guys have already spelled out in fine detail how to do the actual replacement. What I would add is this: First, I promised I wouldn’t swear during this repair. Second, I got everything I needed together including tools, a small bucket and some old newspaper to soak up the water that is sure to spill. I bought 6 foot stainless steel hoses to replace the old rubber ones. THIS IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED as the last thing you need is a burst water line. Shorter hoses limit the distance you can move the washer without disconnecting them. The directions were wrong in that I did not need (nor could I use) the plastic sleeve over the outlet tube. So I very carefully had to pry this off without breaking the plastic bushing. And I had bent the clamp securing the outlet hose to the valve, and had a devil of a time getting it back on properly, so you may want to have a small tubing clamp handy as a replacement. Also, I checked for leaks before putting the valve back in place by holding it very carefully, powering up and turning the washer on and off a few times. Keep your fingers and sheet metal away from the terminals or your promise not to swear will be null and void! The last thing is that when I get into a project I go all the way, which meant pulling the washer all the way out and cleaning the floor and all the dust behind it, and even cleaning the washer itself. The result is my Maytag works like new, fills fast without the buzz and looks new, too. I love it when a plan comes together.

First you turn off the main water supply or turn off the valves at the wall behind the washer unit. Second you disconnect the hot and cold water lines going to the washer unit valve. You then use 1/4 closed end wrench to remove one screw. Then you use a flat head screw driver to remove the two screws holding the valve in place. At this point use a 1/4 socket drive to loosen the clamp that is holding the hose that feeds water to the valve. Remove the hose. Then you disconnect the four wires and re-connect the wires to the new valve. Re-install the hose to the valve. Then you are ready to put it all back together.

Shut off the electricity (pulled thee plug). Working from the rear of the washer. Removed water hoses with Stillson wrench. Removed two self tapping screws with nut driver to get to the assembly. Slipped off the wires lugs one at a time from thee old assembly and slipped them onto the new valve assembly in the same location. Installed the new assembly. Attached the water hoses to the new inlet valves. Note: My washer had the hot and cold valves identified on the washer. The replacement valve assembly was marked hot and cold (H, C.). which was the reverse of the marking on the washing machine. Go by the marking on the washing machine.

My brother is a handyman. The part was delivered very quickly. The instructions were very easy to read and after an hour, voila the oven works perfectly!

After disconnecting the power and removing the input hose connections I was able to remove the valve assembly through the back panel. I then removed the wires from the valve and disconnected the outlet hose. I removed the old valve and replaced it with the new one. Then reattached the outlet hose and 4 wires to the new valve. The assembly then was reinserted into to the back panel and screwed into place. Reconnect the input hoses and plug it in and it's ready to be tested for leaks & used. (I had no leaks, BTW. A little silicone grease on the fittings made reassembly go easier but it's not needed. )

Instead of buying a new range my son said he could replace the part so I looked your company up on internet and had it shipped. Three days later I was cooking with gas again! Thanks!

took out two screws that held Igniter to burner, unbluged wires from behind and pulled them out to the front of over, replaced with new one, solved the problem of the burner not coming on,,,,