19495 (1988) Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

first I removed the 4 screws that hold the bottom part of the door cover and then removed the 6 bolts
with a power screw driver with nut attachment.I then reomved the 2 wires which are color coded and noted which one went where.I removed the old unit and installed the gasget and new detergengent cup,the wires,bolts and door screws.You do not have to remove the screws to the top part of the door.The screws are located inside the door on each side. Took about 20 minutes.

I removed the old flange pieces before ordering the new one, then repositioned the washer after attaching the new one to the washer top. I then attached the flange to the counter top resulting in a more stable appliance. It was simple to remove the screws and install the new flange.

I was not able to follow the instructions exactly since they called for stretching the belt around the back pulley with the left hand. For a woman that prooved too difficult so instead I attached the belt to the back pulley first and used 2 screw drivers (they are thin) to stretch the belt around the front pulley. It took considerable effort but I got it on!! The dishwasher now works. Praise God!!

this is a portable unit
the wood top is removed this allows access to the side cabinet screws and the lower front trim screws behind the lower front trim panel you can access the hose connections disconnect and reinstall
new part works great!

Ours is a portable with butcher top. Three screws under the front edge allow the top to be slid forward and off. Then it is obvious which screws release the old flange.

The latch hook needs to be separated from the metal strip and inserted into the front of the flange through the slot, then secured back onto the metal strip.

Don't tighten it too much until you get the thing back together. Then adjust it so the door closes tightly and make it tight. If that machine screw works loose it allows the latch to move sideways which will widen the slot--not good.

It should be checked for tightness every year unless you want to replace that plastic part again. It should have been made of metal to begin with. I'm surprised Maytag would use plastic in such a part.

Not a difficult repair unless you are a total klutz with a screwdriver.

Had to loosen the drive motor enough to slip the belt around the pulleys. The only problem was the amount of space available to work in.

It was my first dishwasher belt and it was much tighter than I thought it was going to be. I was worried I was going to break it putting it on so I was a bit stumped, but finally got it on and its good as new.

remove 3 screws from either side door edge trim : Note ! panel "notches" are up : remove both original panals plus the cardboard spacer : swap only the old color with the new one and reinstall spacer cardboard and be sure it stays centered : remember panel notches are up : carfully slide the panels over the spacer cardboard while keeping the cardboard centered : becareful panel edges can scratch in the door trim : Note! opposite side door trim can be removed if needed .

First, I had to remove the outer face panel of the door. Four screws on the inside of the door hold the large panel onto the front. Removing these screws and the panel revealed the detergent cup assembly. There is no need to disconnect the power as long as the door latch is in the open position for this repair. I removed the two wires, blue and white from the leads, keeping note which was attached to which lead. I used a hex head screw driver to remove the 6 screws that hold the detergent cup in place. After removing the detergent cup and gasket, I cleaned the surfaces with a scouring pad to make sure the new gasket would have a good seal. I installed the new detergent cup with the 6 hex screws and re-attached the leads. I replaced the face panel with the four interior screws after running a couple cycles to be sure the problem was fixed, which it was.

I removed front bottom cover,found belt broken. I ordered part online on 10-23-09,part arrived on 10-24-09,amazing. I lossened the two bolts that hold the drive motor to the frame,slipped the new belt on and applied the supplied silicone grease. I then ran the two bolts in with a 3/8 wrench,put the cover back on. Everything works like new now. Great delivery and easy ordering system online. Immediatly called my neighbor and told him about partselect.com

I replaced the belt and door spring. Now it works perfectly, and the door doesn't drop with a bang.

No problem at all. Belt slipped on very easily. Followed directions in the package.

Very easy,take off the old faucet screen and screw on the adapter. What I really liked was the ease of ordering the part. In less than 5 minutes I had located the part and ordered it. Less than 3 days later, I had the part. Way to go PartSelect.

Took off bottom cover. Put belt on center housing than put belt on moter pully.Rolled belt down onto center pully while turning pully clockwise. Popped right on.

Remove lower cover, 4 Phillips screws. Remove bracket with float switch, two hex head screws in the rear. After removal pull switch wires, two in plastic housings. Remove float switch, one small Phillips head screw. Remove float switch lever, one Phillips head screw. Clean the bracket and lever. Replace the lever and lube with silicone. Replace the float switch, (new one) and replace wires. Reinstall install bracket with original hex head screws. Replace lower cover. Done.