1949 (1988) Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.

The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.

Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops

first I removed the 4 screws that hold the bottom part of the door cover and then removed the 6 bolts
with a power screw driver with nut attachment.I then reomved the 2 wires which are color coded and noted which one went where.I removed the old unit and installed the gasget and new detergengent cup,the wires,bolts and door screws.You do not have to remove the screws to the top part of the door.The screws are located inside the door on each side. Took about 20 minutes.

Since the bimetal repair kit was not available, I bought the complete detergent cup, gasket, and bimetal switch assembly set. This was still far cheaper than paying for a professional repair. All I had to do after shutting off the power is to remove screws to open up the door (door trim/6 screws & 6 screws on the inner side of door edges to remove outer wall of door). The detergent cup assembly is right there for easy access! I unplugged the 2 electric wire plugs to the bimetal switch (paying attention to which plug goes where for when I reassemble), removed the 6 screws that mount the cup assembly, removed assembly and gasket, cleaned the surfaces, and reassembled with the new assembly. Very, very easy to do and everything works like a charm!

this is a portable unit
the wood top is removed this allows access to the side cabinet screws and the lower front trim screws behind the lower front trim panel you can access the hose connections disconnect and reinstall
new part works great!

Just as everybody explained, 4 screws for the door panel, 6 screws for the dispenser, out and in, 15 minutes!!! There are plenty of screws on the door but, once i knew i was looking for 4 screws, it was a cinch!!! Thanks for that tip. All my appliances are the same age so i 'll be back to this site again!!

I removed the old flange pieces before ordering the new one, then repositioned the washer after attaching the new one to the washer top. I then attached the flange to the counter top resulting in a more stable appliance. It was simple to remove the screws and install the new flange.

Very simple. Remove bottom panels. Remove one screw holding old switch in place. Move wire connections from old switch to new one. Cleaned and lubed the switch actuator. Mounted new switch. Checked that float and actuator worked freely. Left bottom panels off till I ran a load - just to be sure all was OK. Remount bottom panels...Done! P.S. Don't forget to turn power off to dishwasher any time you work on it!!

Ours is a portable with butcher top. Three screws under the front edge allow the top to be slid forward and off. Then it is obvious which screws release the old flange.

The latch hook needs to be separated from the metal strip and inserted into the front of the flange through the slot, then secured back onto the metal strip.

Don't tighten it too much until you get the thing back together. Then adjust it so the door closes tightly and make it tight. If that machine screw works loose it allows the latch to move sideways which will widen the slot--not good.

It should be checked for tightness every year unless you want to replace that plastic part again. It should have been made of metal to begin with. I'm surprised Maytag would use plastic in such a part.

Not a difficult repair unless you are a total klutz with a screwdriver.

No tools were needed. The top rack was slid out as far as it could go (no need to remove from the dishwasher) and the utensil basket was removed. Matching the positioning of the other good clips on the upper rack, the new accessory rack pivot clips were snapped into place. The pins on each end of the accessory racks were placed into the pivot holes provided on the clips and pressed into placed. The bottom prong on each clip was then gently pressed upward until it snapped into the groove on the bottom of the clip. The pivot action of each rack was tested. The untensil basket was put back into place and the upper rack was slid back into the dishwasher. Done!

Clip the plastic on to the vertical pieces. No tools needed

remove 3 screws from either side door edge trim : Note ! panel "notches" are up : remove both original panals plus the cardboard spacer : swap only the old color with the new one and reinstall spacer cardboard and be sure it stays centered : remember panel notches are up : carfully slide the panels over the spacer cardboard while keeping the cardboard centered : becareful panel edges can scratch in the door trim : Note! opposite side door trim can be removed if needed .

First, I had to remove the outer face panel of the door. Four screws on the inside of the door hold the large panel onto the front. Removing these screws and the panel revealed the detergent cup assembly. There is no need to disconnect the power as long as the door latch is in the open position for this repair. I removed the two wires, blue and white from the leads, keeping note which was attached to which lead. I used a hex head screw driver to remove the 6 screws that hold the detergent cup in place. After removing the detergent cup and gasket, I cleaned the surfaces with a scouring pad to make sure the new gasket would have a good seal. I installed the new detergent cup with the 6 hex screws and re-attached the leads. I replaced the face panel with the four interior screws after running a couple cycles to be sure the problem was fixed, which it was.

Very easy,take off the old faucet screen and screw on the adapter. What I really liked was the ease of ordering the part. In less than 5 minutes I had located the part and ordered it. Less than 3 days later, I had the part. Way to go PartSelect.

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.