1949 - Instructions

I saw on a partselect web site that these symptoms could be caused by a failed condensor fan motor. After removing the cardboard panel in back of the refrigerator I noticed the fan was not running when the rfigerator was. The fan was held in place by three brackets. I unscrewed the screws holding the fan motor to the brackets and also unscrewed one of the brackets to make room to pull the motor out. I cut the wires close to the motor. I removed the fan blade and secured it to the new motor. I had to reroute the old wires in order to have enough slack to use wire nuts to attach them to the leads on the new motor. I then re-attached the motor to the two brackets remaining in place and then re-attacehed the third bracket I had removed to get the motor out.. The most difficult part was working in a very confined space.

After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Removal of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.

First you must unplug the refrigerator, then remove the top hinge and freezer door, then you must remove the middle hinge to remove the refrigerator door, after that there are 4 screws located in the refrigerator compartment that must be removed that are holding the plastic control knob trim in place. When you remove these screws and drop the trim piece you can unplug the wiring on it, to completly remove it, next right above the plastic trim previously removed there is a metal trim with 3 screws holding it in place they will be removed now. Now you need to remove all of the shelving in the freezer compartment these pieces will just snap out , at the lower left and right sides of the freezer compartment there are two plastic tips that are attached to the main plastic body of this compartment they will need to be snapped out from behind the metal body of the refrigerator this can be done with a flat head screwdriver. Now pull straight out on the plastic body and it should come out , this will expose an insulating cover over the freezer coil where the defrost heater is located,if this is covered with ice you will need a heat gun which is a overgrown hair dryer basically. To melt the ice you will have to remove a insulating cover that is located behind the previously removed front metal trim it will come out by gently snapping it out of place, use caution during this step so not to break the cover in half. This will expose the front of the freezer coil and you can now use the heat gun to melt the ice, keep a check on the drain pan beneath the refrigerator as it will have to be emptied depending on the amount of ice build up. As the ice melts it should release the top cover of the coil and this will lift out of place also again use caution when removing the cover. With the coil exposed melt the remaining ice, if you look in the coil you will see the defrost heater, if the glass tube on the heater is broken please use extreme caution so you will not get cut by it , now you can unplug each wire from each side of the heater you may need a pair of pliers for this. when the wires are unplugged you can now lift out the bad heater again use caution if the glass is broken. There is a gaurd over the heater that will have to be removed by sliding it off the end wires when you have this off, slide it over the wires on the new element, now gently install the new heater back in the coil reconnect the 2 end wires and make sure they are connected good. you can now assemble all of the covers and parts in the reverse order you removed them, when assenbly is complete plug the refrigerator back in and in about three hours or so you should here the fan and compressor stop and the unit should go into a defrost cycle during this you should here the water running to the drain pan as it melts.

This repair is very simple. Partselect.com sells a repair kit for this problem that you can use but for simplicity the entire unit is not that much more. First remove the four outside lower philips head screws on the inside of your dishwasher door. Support outer door panel while removing screws. This will remove the outer door panel to gain access to the detergent cup. Remove panel by pulling out bottom first then slightly pulling downward. You will then see the detergent cup. Unplug the two leads that are connected to the unit keeping in mind their orientation. Remove the five screws that hold the detergent cup in place. Remove the cup assembly and gasket. Clean gasket area and install new cup and gasket. Reinstall five screws (do not overtighten) and plug leads back in. To reinstall door panel position door panel at a slight angle and install top first sliding upward into place under control panel then push inward at bottom. Reinstall the four philips head screws on the inside and you are finished. The complete repair will take you less than 30 minutes.

Removed the gasket by pulling it's tabs out of the metal slots in the door. This was accomplished by accessing the inside of the door.
Then I realized that I had to dissassemble the side and front panel of the door to install the new gasket. The reason is you have to pull the tabs through the metal slots in the door from the front side. I used needle nose pliers which worked well. Then I had to reassemble the front and sides of the door. No more leaks!! for now. Takes some time if you do it by yourself. Budget at least 2 hours.

the coupling for the water hookup for my rollaway dishwasher was very badly damaged. After looking everywhere including authorized dealer and repair places, on-line at the manufactures parts website, I finally broke down and ordered the entire hose assembly. When it arrived, I simply used a toothpick to carefully remove the new gasket from the new part and put in the the old one. It took about 30 seconds and works perfectly. I paid 60 bucks for a tiny little washer, but I have an extra hose assembly if something should go wrong in the future.

I had already loosened the motor from inside the tub....so it was fairly easy to wrap the new belt around the motor/pulley system.... even though the old broken belt was 2 inches longer than the new belt(probably as a result of age and use, but the new belt is obviously the right size!) Once in place, I did have to take some care in screwing down the seal from inside being as it wanted to go more to one side than the other from the pressure of the tight belt, but all in all, it wasn't so bad. Unfortunately for me when I put the dishwasher on, I thought the dirty water problem would go away, but I soon learned that I also had a clog in the plumbing. I guess I'll never know if one thing caused the other or it was just 2 things going wrong at the same exact time. But everything is perfect now. Also, the part I ordered was at my doorstep in less than 36 hours!!!! That's fantastic!

Removed two screws holding valve, removed two 1/4" water lines. disconnected wire clip from old valve.
Installed new valve, connecting water and electrical with ease.
Absolutely Simple!

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

Removed under-door front panel. Removed broken spring from right side. Hold door half open, insert spring with plastic bearing into hole in door hinge. Pull down to seat bearing in hinge. With needle nose pliers insert spring into hole at base of washer. ( You do not need to pull washer out of position)

remove lower access panel to expose spring. remove broken spring with longnose pliers. with door closed install upper hook of spring with nylon bushing on door hinge. using longnose pliers pull down on spring to hook on lower braket.

i took the dishwasher apart, took off the old hose and replace it with the new one. it was real easy. i smiled as my two yr. old tried to help me . i'm sure i'll be odering other parts in the future.

While investigating a water leak I discovered the condenser fan seized. I removed the fan to prevent a fire and ordered the part. The hardest part was identifying the correct fan. That took longer than the installation.
I cut the wires and spliced in the new motor. It rotated correctly and I replaced the crill.
Done
Total time of ice maker water leak repair and fan replacement about 1 hour.

1. Removed the cardboard cover.
2. Removed the terminal block and unplugged the old motor.
3. Removed three screws that held old motor to the bracket.
4. Removed the fan blade from the old motor.
5. Installed the fan blade (after cleaning) to the new motor.
6. Crimped on new wire terminals onto the leads on the new motor.
7. Installed the new motor using the fasteners provided.
8. Plugged the new motor wires onto the proper terminals in the terminal block.
9. remounted the terminal block.
10. reinstalled the cardboard cover.