1197048510 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I removed the bottom of the oven and flame guard for access to the ingniter. I then replaced the ingniter. The oven works like new now.

1 - I unplugged the oven/ stove connection.
2 - Removed 2 screws and lifted it out the floor of the oven.
3 - Removed the nut holding down the flame guard and lifted it out.
4 - Removed 2 screes that held igniter in place.
5 - cut the wires for igniter.
6 - Stripped new wires with the nuts connector.
7 - Installed new igniter with 2 screws.
8 - Put it all back together step 3 & 2.
9 - Plugged in the oven/stove connection.
10 - Turn on the oven and works perfectly.
11 - My wife and daughter happy and ready to bake.

Removed the broiler compartment door by depressing the slide stops inward and pulling the door off. Turned off the breaker to the oven. Used a nut driver to remove the old ignitor ( 2 screws ). Cut the wires off the old ignitor close to the porclin. Measured the new ignitor wires to match up with the old ignitor wires and cut them. Stripped 3/8 " off ends of newely cut wires of the ignitor and used the supplied wire nuts to secure them together. Replaced the new ignitor with the 2 screws. Turned on the oven and a cooking I went.

I removed the oven floor and subfloor. I detached the old ignighter leaving the wires still attached. I then attached the new ignighter and fed each of the two new wires down through the bottom of the oven floor following the same path of the old wires which were still attached. I attached the new wires one at a time to make sure I connected them to the right place. Then, I pulled out the old igniter. I then attached the oven floors and turned the oven on which now works. The tough part is pulling the oven out from the wall to disconnect the power and turn off the gas. I did not remove the oven door.

Replaced same very simple.

This was very easy. Just remove the bottom of the oven by removing the two screw in the back. Then remove the baffle from under that and you of will see the ingniter. The one wire will reach the gas valve, just splce the other. 6 screws is all it takes. Turned it on worked perfectly.

I cut the wires from the old igniter near where it said to. I then connected the new wires to the old ones, put it back on, the way I remembered it being assembled, but still won't heat up. I tried to get an enlarged detail of where I was working on, but I couldn't enlarge it from your website. My friend, who knows about electricity, worked on it for several hours last pm(He's an electrician), but could not figure it out with the scamatic that was on the range, because he was not there when I disassembled it,

The philip head screws holding the igniters were frozen. Had to cut off heads with dremel cut off tool, then grabed residual screw with vice gripp pliers. Removed screws and mounted new ignighters. Used new hex head bolts. Attached wires per instruction sheet and tested unit. It worked.

had the gas company do a free inspection.he told me the igniters go bad over time,so i went online with my model #and found a symptom/remedy page at part select.it said replacing the igniter fixed the problem 100% of the time.that gave me confidence and i ordered it,installed it and fixed it for $53.00(the gasman said most plces charged $250-300 to fix it.i was proud of myself-1st ever oven repair=great job!!! thanks.

Replacing the faulty ignitor would have been simple enough if my arms were a foot longer and the bolts that secured the old ignitor had not been baked on.

With an ample dose of WD40 and some Vise Grips I finally got them broke loose. An Ohm meter can tell you pretty quickly if the old ignitor is bad. My old ignitor measured more than 1 mega ohm while the new ignitor read only about 346 ohms.

1st took out switch from thermostat unit, located right on the other side of where the temperature knob is located (that controls cooking temp of the oven). Had to lift up range cover to get to the thermostat. Tested this switch with a meter and found it was OK. This made me suspect the igniter, so I ordered one.
To install I first unplugged oven (to prevent getting shocked) then took off the drawer on the bottom compartment (push in on tabs on rails until they release). Then take out two screws holding igniter. Mark wires with tape so you know which one goes to the upper part of the igniter and which one goes to the lower part. Then cut wires as close to the body of the igniter as you can so that you have plenty of wire to work with. Then hold igniter in about the place it will be mounted and mark the wires on the new igniter where you want to cut them. Leave a little extra so you have wire at a length that is easier to work with. Scrape off 3/8 inch of insulation off the end of each wire and connect the wires with wire nuts. Re-mount igniter. Put drawer back in. Plug oven back in and try the oven. I hope it works. Mine did thanks to God. Take care.

Followed service sheet. Measured 2.6 amps draw at igniter wire which should have been 3.2 amps. Replaced igniter and problem resolved.

After removing heat shield, removed heating element (make sure you have the right bit, I stripped one of the screws). Cut wires , making sure to mark them. Reconnected and it worked like new! Saved a bunch of money,thank you!

removed bottom plate in oven removed three screws and cut two wires.

Unplugged stove, removed floor of oven, removed two screws holding igniter, cut wires to igniter, installed new igniter, cut and stripped wires on new igniter and leads, connected new ingiter with supplied ceramic wire nuts, tested (worked perfectly!), then replaced oven floor.

It was a snap!