11087566601 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Started at the top by laying back the control panel, then I removed the top panel, then the front panel, next the drum and the broken belt. before I put it back together in reverse order, I vacuumed the inside of the dryer and the exhaust vent

we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.

Went on this website and found a story that was similar. I ordered the parts which arrived quickly and I replaced the Thermal Fuse and heating element and it was fixed! The whole repair cost me $24.88! Way cheaper than calling a repair man.
Heater thing was part # 3387134
and the fuse was 3392519

Pulled the lower front panel located thermal switch pulled 2 wires removed 2 small bolts pulled switch out set meter to ohms scale and tested between the 2 terminals it hailed the test I reversed for installation of new switch

I watched your instruction video, which by the way, 1. was not for my model dryer and 2. was totally opposite of what you showed. I was able to remove the back and replace it from there versus going in from the front and removing the drum, etc etc

1 screw to replace.

At first, my dryer would just make a clicking noise but would not start. After some research, I unplugged it to try to 'reset' it and after that, I noticed the F01 error. Some quick research on the internet you can find the source of the error is a failed machine board. Some DYI people soldered the part where the connection broke but, I chose to just buy the new part. I was pretty confident where the error was and did not want to waste time and the cost of a repair man visit. I followed the instructions on the most thorough YouTube video and removed the top of the dryer, took pictures of the control board wires and began the removal process. The insertion fo the new board took about 1 minute. All in all, the physical work took my husband and I about 10 minutes. Research was about an hour and I had the part shipped overnight. This website has saved me hundred of dollars and lots of wasted time trying to find a repair man when Covid has made it difficult to get anyone to your house. Our washer sprung a leak during the initial lockdown and we were able to fix that ourselves as well.
My only comment about the part is that the chime at the end of the cycle is very different. I have yet to find out if I can change that but it is not too bothersome.
I love this website and its products!

(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple to get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.

I disassembled the dryer, replaced the pulley (which was noisy), and the belt.reassembled, only to find out that the drum would not turn freely. checked all my procedures and kept having the same problem. Finally after 3 frustrating hours, I took the back off and noticed that idler arm was tight against the motor shaft, because the too short belt didn't allow for the clearance needed. Had too take everything apart ,another hour, went and found one at our local repair shop, reinstalled everything , after another two hours runs fine. would appreciate a refund. And please check your part numbers in the future. Would hate to have someone else go through what i experienced.

I replaced both the door strike and the female portion. The door still does not close tightly. Heavy, wet items also knock the door open.

Removed back panel of the dryer-reached my hand to the back of the motor shaft, put 7/16 wrench on it to hold the shaft while I removed the broken pulley with pliers. Very easy fix-the tech on Utube took the entire dryer apart totally unnecessary. If that is what the factory tells its tech"s to do its no wonder why the labor charge would be thru the roof.

Removed top and back covers. Placed new pulley and retaining clip in place. I had to remove a couple of drum supports to put belt on. Probably didn't have to remove top.

Unplug dryer from mains. Remove the back of the dryer. Thermal fuse is located on the left hand side near the bottom as you face the back of the dryer. Remove fuse and connect new fuse. Never repaired an appliance before and this was so easy!

On this model do not try to remove the back. You must remove the bottom front panel and the lint screen unit. You can then loosen the heat coil assembly and rotate it to get to the high-limit thermostat and the thermal unit. I replaced both because I bought the kit. It actually took me longer to clean out lint than it did to replace the parts. A simple remove of the parts with a 1/4 inch nut driver did the trick. Now my dryer works fine.

had to take front off of Dryer then was able to replace drum roller