11087561602 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

My dryer would not start or turn. I first moved the timer to midway between start and end of a cycle and could hear the timer ticking, likely eliminating the timer as the culprit. I next opened the door, manually pressed the door-closure switch and pressed START to see if the heating coil was heating without the drum turning to see if it might be a motor issue. After no heat, I unplugged the dryer and removed the vent hose by loosening the clamp and then removed the lower back cover using a socket and ratchet. Using a multimeter, I quickly found an open thermal fuse. I tested the remaining components to see if they also required replacement (coil, thermostat, high temp sensor) - all tested good. Took a chance and ordered the fuse alone instead of also purchasing replacement thermostat as many advise - if you have not replaced in a while, probably worth doing now. I have replaced mine within a year or two and chalked up the issue to my kids not clearing the vent, so I went without the new thermostat. Model number was found by opening the lid - parts arrived incredibly fast especially for being around the holidays. Replaced the fuse with ease - there is a notch in one end that holds the non-screw end in place so it's flush. Plugged the dryer back in, selected a cycle and confirmed the dryer started and heated as normal. I then had my son open the dryer door to confirm the drum stopped turning. HERE'S WHERE IT TAKES A TWIST: When the door was open, the heating coil continued to glow red hot (faulty timer??) I moved selector to end of cycle and the glow stopped. (timer's good) I then moved the selector mid-way between cycles with the dryer door open and WITHOUT PRESSING START and the coil again glowed red. Disconnected power, disconnected coil and using multimeter, checked from coil input to case ground (any bare metal) and found one side of the coil to be grounded. I was able to removed the heating coil and locate where the coil was touching the case. I shifted the coil back into place, checked with meter (no ground this time), reinstalled and tested with no problems. Reinstalled the back plate and vent hose. Finally, had conversation with the kiddos about being gentle when moving the dryer and all was well. The thermal fuse portion took 15 minutes from diagnosis to replacement. The overall process (due to the additional grounded heating coil) took 30-60. With any repair like this, I usually recommend visually verifying the heat cycles on and off by carefully running with the door open and holding the switch. This will help you determine if you may have an additional faulty part that made the first one fail. (Most likely, thermostat).

To replace the light bulb, I removed the screw and the cover, unscrewed the old bulb, replaced with the new bulb and replaced the cover, securing it with the small screw. It worked appropriately with normal use for a few days and then I noticed the light was not coming on when I opened the door.

I removed the cover and pulled out the bulb to find that the filaments inside are dangling and burned through. I need them replaced, please.

Disconnect gas line and vent hose,removed top and back covers to install belt.

First I removed the top back plate and found the electrical schematic, found the fuse and themostat. Went to Whilpool web site found exploded parts list to identify part (fuse)

removed fuse and tested with MM for an open. It was. Shorted the leads to verify that the Dryer operated. Found your site and was easily able to identify the part from the excellent description and pictures. Ordered it, installed it work great thanks

I checked the Thermal Fuse and it was okay. Then I tested the timer and it was not working. Then I ordered the timer from this site and installed it in about 30 min. The dryer is now working.

tested continuity, determined thermal fuse was open. PartSelect sent a new fuse very quickly, and it was just a matter of reconnecting the wires and putting the back cover on the dryer. Started right up.

Jimmied out the latch using two screw drivers to get under the edges. Pushed the new piece in. Voila! Took 2 minutes for what my repair man told me would cost about $200 to fix. Unbelievable!!( I first watched some YouTube videos to get the idea )

removed the rear panel to gain access to the internals of the dryer, removed the one screw that retains the fuse, out with the old and in with the new.
delivery of the part was 2 days sooner than expected.
could not have been a simpler process!

This could not have been easier. The hardest part was tipping the dryer over on its' side.
Instructions:
1. Tip dryer over onto a non-scratch surface. I used a tarp on the floor.
Insert leveling foot into the foot opening on the bottom of the dryer &
screw in with fingers until it is difficult to turn.
2. Use the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot (not the threads) to adjust to the desired level.
3. Tip dryer upright taking care not to exert pressure on the feet closest to floor. I used a folded-up tarp under the bottom edge of the dryer while lifting it to the upright position.
4. Use a level, back to front & side to side, to determine if feet need further adjustment.
5. Adjustments can be made with the dryer in the upright position, using the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot.

I first watched the helpful video on website. Un- plugged the dryer. I removed the back cover and tested the thermal fuse with the multi meter. Ordered the replacement part. Replaced the Thermal Fuse, and put the back cover back on. This was a very easy fix! It takes longer to remove the back cover of the dryer than it does to replace the fuse. While I had the back cover I used my air compressor to blow out any lint. This dryer is as good as new now. this site fast shipper, Great website.

Once again part select has come through for me. googled dryer won't start and a video on utube came up. typed my model number in on part select website and followed directions. was easy got part in three business days regular shipping. very pleased with this site.

Before anything unplug the dryer
1) Remove the back panel to include electric cable. 2) Remove the lower front panel. 3) Remove top panel. 4) Remove control panel 5) remove door assembly to include metal frame and front panel of the blower housing. (much easier than trying to do this separately. 6) Remove drum belt by pulling back on the idler pulley (spring). 7) Remove drum. 8) Remove idler pulley retaining ring and pulley. 9) remove old seal on blower housing. 10) I added high temp grease to the pulley shaft and installed new pulley. 11) Install new blower seal. 12) Install drum and new belt. 13) Re-install all the panels.

Confirmed I had incoming 240V, checked continuity on element switch confirmed bad. Ordered replacement part. U have to remove drum to replace element

I found a simple video on YouTube. I removed the front panel and door. I removed drum and belt drive. Heater element was then easily accessible. I removed all wires after taking pictures of wiring. Element was secured by one screw and one clip and was easily removed. Removed element from element cover. Checked thermostat and thermal overload. Put new element inside of element cover. Then replaced everything in reverse order. Removing lint from inside of dryer was probably the most difficult part of repair. Had to have assistance from my son to put drum belt back on but rest of replacement was simple.

Removed the top, removed lower front cover, removed the front, removed the belt, removed the drum and the back. Removed and replaced roller support shaft and drum roller’s. Completed all Front and rear support for drum. Replaced drum , replaced drum roller belt and replaced back, completed replacement of the top, front.