11070172000 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Removed 2 screws in the lint filter and popped off the top. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Slid the drum off and set aside. Replaced support rollers. Placed the belt over the drum and placed the drum back in the dryer. Wound the belt over the tensioner and motor pulley. Turned the drum to keep seal from folding up. Replaced front and top.

Tip: Use bungee cord or rope to hold top up and out of the way while doing this job.

Followed instructions from video, just removed lint collector, dryer top and front panel, removed broken belt and old idler pulley. Vacuumed and cleaned up inside dryer.installed new pulley and rib belt according to printed instructions,installed new dryer duct and new clamps. Saved myself huge service call or having to buy new dryer.Will be checking with this site on any future repairs instead of calling a repair service. Your video made it real easy to repair.and I am 77 years old.. Bob

Thermal fuse was blown so I replaced it. Still no heat. Hi-Limit thermostat and Cycling Thermo. had continuity as did flame sensor. Igniter tested 66ohms. I placed a wire jumper across the Hi-Limit and the igniter glowed, solenoids opened and gas came on. I orderd the Hi-Limit and since both "overheating" limiters were defective I decided to order the cycling thermo just in case. The Hi-Limit was received in 2 days but the Cycling Thermo was backordered. In the meantime my wife got antsy so I went ahead and installed the Hi-Limit and put her back in service... ...for one load. I wasn't certain if I had fried the "limiters" again but since they had continuity and I could measure continuity all the way to the Igniter I decided that it HAD to be the cause. I ignored the flame sensor since it never came into play without the igniter glowing... The igniter arrived and measured 56ohms. Hmmm... After installing the problem was solved. Word of advice: If the thermal fuse is blown and even if all else in the circuit SEEMS ok, go ahead and order the Fuse, Hi-Limit and Cycling Thermos, and the Igniter. It will take you about 30 minutes to install and you'll reduce your out-of-service time! Good luck!

Took a bit to first figure out how to get the front of the dryer off in order to access the motor, wheels, and belt, but found a "how-to" online. Once I had that, the rest was easy.

Lubricated motor and guide wheels but squealing still there. Then noticed the "idler pulley assembly" (the part that keeps the belt tight against the drum) looked a bit old and worn. Ordered a replacement part on this site because it was much much cheaper than a service call, installed it.... and NO SQUEAL!!!

Went on this website and found a story that was similar. I ordered the parts which arrived quickly and I replaced the Thermal Fuse and heating element and it was fixed! The whole repair cost me $24.88! Way cheaper than calling a repair man.
Heater thing was part # 3387134
and the fuse was 3392519

this was very was very easy. But I deviated from the You Tube instructions. One to release the motor pulley. I needed to use 2 adjustable wrenches for a longer lever. I needed to use a hammer to help release pulley. Second to remove the dryer cable I needed to use a small screw driver to aid in the release. ---- the part from the company was a perfect fit.

For the Ignitor - As involved as taking the dryer completely apart sounded, it was super easy. 1-take out the lint trap and remove the two screws there. 2-Pop open the top with a screw driver and swing the top completely over/back. 3- remove the two screws holding in the front panel and remove the panel. 4- loosen the belt by pushing on the tension roller under the drum on the right and remove the drum (its super light) use the belt as a handle. 5- remove the screw holding in the ignitor and replace it with the new one. Be careful to not touch the new ignitor. Then go backwards putting it back together.

Unplug dryer from mains. Remove the back of the dryer. Thermal fuse is located on the left hand side near the bottom as you face the back of the dryer. Remove fuse and connect new fuse. Never repaired an appliance before and this was so easy!

Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.

removed frt & rear panels & drum and lint chute for seal replacement replaced these components, problem didn't go away, ordered & replaced both gas valve coils (m series coil kit) problem solved

Took the dryer top off and removed the bad part. Looked it up online and found a replacement by looking for whirlpool parts. They didn't have one at the local parts stores so I ordered the part online and had it mailed within three days. I replaced it quite easily. It worked and I put everything back together and my wife took over the tricky part of drying the laundry! The repair was quite easy for a non mechanical person like me.

Followed the video .... Also installed another part. which was a kit. the video here showed the third wire being installed. The video on repair clinic did not show where to attach the third wire (orange wire). The Kit and the Thermostat was installed with 25 mins. Thanks

Simple part replacement, fit perfectly. No problem. Excellent service. Received new lint filter the next day.

1) Unplug power cable from dryer.
2) Remove the 2 screws that secure the chute for lint filter screen with
Phillips head screwdriver.
3) Remove the lint filter screen.
4) Depress plastic locking clip on each side with putty knife to release
tension and lift up top panel to clear the locking clips. Each locking
clip is located 2-1/2 inches from the front edge of side panel.
5) Lift the top panel and lean against the wall for support. If dryer top
panel cannot be raised all the way due to cabinet(s) above, tape
the dryer top panel to cabinet above or have somebody hold the
top panel for temporary support.
6) Install the new metal locking clips. Ensure that the elongated tab
of the metal locking clip is towards the front of dryer. Compress
locking clip lightly with pliers and push down into the hole.
7) Lower the dryer top panel and press it down in place over the metal
locking clips for a tight fit.
8) Reinstall the 2 screws to secure the lint filter chute.
9) Reinstall lint filter screen.
10) Reconnect power cable for dryer.
11) Turn on dryer and inspect that all dryer panels (top, sides and
front) are tight and secured.
Repair Duration: 5 minutes

I ordered the belt idler pully and drum support rollers and after watching the video on Parts Select web page, changed the parts. It could be done by one person, however having a second person to help with the drum installation worked great. I discovered the motor bearing on the front side of the motor was the source of the squeek. I disassembled the dryer again and removed the motor. After ordering a motor the installation and reassembly went smoothly. The parts came in two days of placing the orders and virtually new parts in the dryer makes it seem like a new machine.