11068062800 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I placed the putty knife on the top part of the door catch and when that came loose I placed the putty knife on the bottom of the door catch and pushed on the putty knife and the door catch came out of its place. I then just popped the new door catch in place. Total repair time 45 seconds. The door now closes.

Dryer is still in pieces after two weeks, dependent upon my time and ability to work on the project. I usually dry my clothes on an outside line, anyway. I especially appreciate Steve's videos demonstrating step-by-step procedures for disassembly, part installation, and reassembly. Very thorough. I timed each presentation---five minutes for one, less than ten for the other. I watched the videos several times and took notes, so I would have the procedures in front of me while working on the unit at the other end of the house, I'm 77, forgetful. When I disassembled my unit, I noticed several rusted areas, so decided not to complete the project until I could get to the store for paint. As a primary care-giver for a severely dementiated 79-year Old Lady, I have to arrange for a relief to go shopping. That's why the machine is still in pieces. Got the paint, though, so back to work---eventually. When I disassembled the dryer, tucked away in the bottom was a very informative TECH SHEET, the discovery of which ticked me off that it wasn't provided with the owner's manual. At the bottom it says, "For Service Technicians' Use Only." In my house, I'm the "...Service Technician...," chief cook and bottle washer, launderer and litter box attendant.

Unplug from electric ? outlet. Set the meter to ohm setting, check part ,no reading. Remove old part ,check new part with meter ,get a reading of 11 or more mA. Install new part and blower cover done.

Followed the video.

Message indicated something amiss in the motor circuit. Followed Instructions in the on-board manual. Turned out to be the internal-bias thermostat, and the exhaust air thermistor both. Changed faulty parts, cleaned lint from the system and we are off and running again.
Thank You.
DW Pranger

I looked up the problem on Utube and saw a demo on what three items to check with a volt meter for continuity or resistence on either the start button, the door switch, or the thermal fuse. The first two checked out OK but the fuse was dead, no resistance or ohmns on the voltmeter. I had trouble locating it on my dryer as the Utube site said to pull the rear cabinet off when actually it was under the front panel below the dryer door sitting in an awkward position right on top of the dryer motor. I used 2 flat head screwdrivers to pry open the latches over the panel door that are located about 4 inches in from either end and then used a small right angle screwdriver with a flash light propped against the heating elements (after I removed the cover plate) to see with and to give me more room to loosen just two tiny screws that attached the fuse to the motor. Voila! It works better than before.

Unplugged dryer, removed bottom front panel, removed fan cover. I used a 1/4 ratchet to remove 2 screws and the old fuse. Installed new fuse, fan cover, and front panel. Dryer works great!

Shut off the hot water supply (pretty sharp eh?). Disconnected the hose from the hw supply and the at the connection to the washing machine. These had not been touched in at least 15 years and were somewhat tough to loosen but finally came ..... accessibility was a problem for the connection to the water supply as it was in a recessed wall box. Fortunately, we had some washers for the hose connections so the install was a snap. Hardest part of the whole job was moving the washing machine out from between the drier and the wash tub .... tight fit. Thanks for the quick service and to FED EX for their delivery. The delivery fellow was a real gentleman.

Use the adjustable wrench to remove the water line. Remove the dryer vent line. Take off the screws on the main back panel, the screws connecting the top. Place both off the side. Unscrew and remove the parts connecting to the heat line located on the left side. Remove the front unit screw attaching the heat line to the bottom of the dryer. Remove the four screws connecting the top and bottom of the heat line together. The two on the left side is a huge pain, make sure you have small hands to be able to reach on the side of the line. Pull the bottom of the heat line loose. The heating element is inside the line. Replace element and put everything back in the order it was removed.

Easy manually

Just insert filter.

This was so easy to take apart and put back together following the repair video. I figure my family saved $200.00 by doing it myself.

had no room to work in the back of the dryer

Exchanged old for new.

Turned off power and pulled power plug from the wall. Removed the two screws at the lint screen. Raised the top to by depressing the top spring clips. Removed the two 5/16" screws from front top. Removed wiring clips from front panel. Set the front aside while I removed the two broken panel clips. Installed the two new panel clips. reinstalled the front panel by placing the front panel above the sides. Opened the front panel door and supported the drum while allowing the front panel to slide down onto the new front panel clips. Reinstalled the wiring clip. reinstalled the two 5/16 screws. Turned the drum to ensure that the felt seals and drive belt weere installed properly. Lowered the top and reinstalled the two screws at lint screen. Reinstalled power plug and turned on power. No rattles or squeeks!!!