11067092600 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Removed the front lower skirt with two 1/4"hex screws. Vaccumed all inner parts exposed. Removed three 1/4" screws holding the blower housing.Memoved the bias thermister again two 1/4" screws. Make sure all inner exaust pipes and rear chimney gas or electric are clean and lint free. Re assemble and test the unit. Install the skirt and make sure the dryer is level Jack, Pa.

No problem changing the element, but it worked for one load and then the thermostat blew! Bummer but that was another easy fix!

Opened machine up, removed electric control panel, removed door assembly, removed lint collector assembly, removed and replaced 2 sensor bars then reassembled machine. Ended up not being the problem but, I now have new moisture sensing bars.

My husband changed the part but part select was very helpful. With their free repair help site it made repairing a breeze! We will use parts select again and again. I did order all the parts we might have needed and only needed one. Now I will return the others.

Took off front bottom panel reached in removed part that was very dusty. Put in new part. Cleaned out lint inside dryer. Works like a charm.

diognostic suggested thermal fuse or thermistor. Thermistor tested low resistance (<2K olms). Replaced thermistor and dryer heat returned.

The door catch assembly is designed to slide into a hole stamped in the sheet metal. Normally, the repair only requires the use of pliers to grasp the top and bottom of the catch, compressing them enough to slide the catch out of the door. The new catch can be inserted through the hole and snapped into place the same way. In my case, the catch was a very tight fit, so I had to remove the door from the dryer, remove the screws that hold the outside and inside door sections together, replace the damaged door catch, reassemble and re-mount the door. Having to do that increased the completion time for a simple repair that would normally take less than five minutes.

Very easy, viewed the you-tube video and followed the instructions. Simply, unplug dryer, remove back panel (4 nuts), open back, remove one screw that holds board in place and slide left to remove. Take a picture of wire configuration to ensure you reconnect the same way. For the most part it is self explanatory for the exception of the hot wire and two ground wires and proceed to disconnect wires, install new board by reconnecting wires and proceed to replace back cover. Reconnect power source and get to drying.

I watched the video, took a knife and released the outer catches on the stainless steel spring clip, but part of the broken catch was inside the clip crossways and would not let the clip come out. I had a set of hook shaped picks (from Harbor Freight) and I tried to pull out the broken piece, but it fell inside the door. I was then able to pull out the spring steel clip, and push the new part in and it caught. I left the broken parts inside the door, thinking it would not hurt anything. Door latches OK now.

The door catch dislodged in the door and apparently broke. The hardest part was getting it out of the door because in trying to remove it, the piece fell into the inside of the door. I could have easily just installed the new part (it snaps right in with great ease, that part took exactly 5 seconds). But hearing that old piece rattle around inside the door would have made me a little nuts. So I decided to take the door apart to retrieve it. It was just a bunch of screws from around the perimeter of the door, but I also had to unhinge it to do the job. Putting the door back together wasn't as easy as I had hoped, with some pretty tight fits and the glass dislodging. Had a few moments where I was regretting. But I got the old part out, snapped the new one right in. I'm sure an appliance guy would have charged me $60 - 90 just for coming out. Instead I repaired the dryer for the cost of a $3 part. One small lesson learned here -- dryer doors are much like refrigerator doors, or at least mine is. There is a door catch on both sides of the door so you can hinge it to open either way. I could have done the repair for nothing! But I love parts select for just this reason. I don't do major repairs, but replacing pieces on appliances couldn't be easier with this service!

Removal of the back panel was easy - 9 screws - replaced both the thermistor and the two-terminal thermal fuse - put back panel on - supplied power - tested it - works like a champ.

Took the back dryer cover off and removed the lint cover all from the back of the dryer then replaces the Thermistor (held with 2 screws).

After reviewing the video of the fellow popping out the old door catch with a putty knife and popping in a new one, I tried that myself and there was no way it was going to come out without applying enough pressure to tear up the finish on the door. Tried the option of compressing the catch vertically with pliers and could get top or bottom out but not both. Believe my I have a garage full of tools and am very handy and this method was not going to work on my dryer. Finally removed the door and laid on carpet, took out all the screws and removed the catch from the back by squeezing with pliers. Replaced with the catch from the other side after doing the same.Re-assembled no problem. Ordered a replacement that I put in the unused side for next time.

Pretty easy to fix, hardest part was having to get the screws out of the inside of the dryer to replace the sensor itself. Once that was done it was pretty quick! PLUS super fast shipping on my part!! Was fixed before any repair places even called me back!!

flipped THE BREAKER (very important!). Removed the cover on the bottom of the dryer (2 screws), made easier because dryer is stacked on top of washer. Removed the heater box (3 screws). Thermistor located on top of the blower housing (right side). removed old thermistor (2 screws) and unplugged the wires. Plugged the wires into new thermistor, installed the thermistor, replaced the heater box, then tested the dryer. It seemed to work fine. Replaced the cover. It has worked fine ever since.