1106012990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I watched the video or I would have likley just called a repair man. It took longer to clean behind the dryer than to install the new thermal fuse. After taking the back off the dryer is was as simple as changing a fuse. Dryer works like new for about $20 bucks and we avoided the hasle of getting a repair man, especially since we live in the country. Thanks for having a web site that is so easy to use and full of good information.

Our dryer quit heating and I feared that I would have to buy another one as I have never worked on a dryer. But figured I would go online and see what I could learn. Parts Select gave me the info that I needed.
Not being sure which part was bad I decided to start with the one time use Thermal fuse. When I noticed that it only cost 7 bucks and my wife had been complaining that the dryer had not been heating well for a while I figured I would go ahead and replace themostat. I ordered the thermal cut-off kit and replaced both parts. I put them on and plugged it back up and it is heating fine. I found the videos very helpful in showing how to do this.

Dryer ran with no heat. Replaced the Thermal Fuse and when that didn't fix the problem discovered the element was burned. Easy fix except the F-disconnect fitting broke when I tried to remove it and male fitting on the heating element is 0.375 and all I could find were 0.250 F-disconnect fittings. I finally found a supplier who had a 0.375 fitting and the repair took 10 minutes after that. The online videos at PartSelect are excellent.

removed back of dryer. Pull electical connections, removed heating element. Inserted replacement element, attached electrical connections and attached dryer back. Done -easily done.

The online heating element replacement instructions were excellent. The back panel of the dryer was removed by unscrewing 9 screws. The difficulty arose in trying to remove the thermostat from the damaged heating element. My thermostat wasn't connected by screws (the thermostat in the online instructions was). It was much easier to follow the online instructions up until the thermostat removal section, and then remove the thermostat by first removing the heating element from the dryer (connected by two screws), and then using the needle head pliers to gently remove the pliable metal prong that holds the thermostat to the heating element. The metal prong is secured near the top of the thermostat. Once the metal prong is removed, use the pliers to carefully remove the prong that connects the thermostat to one of the two prongs at the bottom of the heating element. The thermostat and the flat wiring connected to the thermostat are one piece. The thermostat is connected to the heating element by the pliable metal prong and the delicate flat wiring attached to the bottom of the thermostat. Reattach the thermostat and other wires to the new heating element, reattach the back of the dryer, and your dryer is blowing hot air again. Upon removing the old heating element is was clear it was damaged as the top three rows of heating coils were burnt. I'm on my fifth load of drying since yesterday's repair. Thanks.

It went well, I followed the instruction video and referred back to it if any questions or difficulty. The instructor on the video was obviously very experienced and duplicating his actions exactly was very helpful, One thing I noticed that wasn't mentioned was that the thread on the wheel / motor is left handed.

very easy

I removed the base cover and cover over my lint blower. The thermal fuse is located on top of the blower housing. I removed the thermal fuse utilizing a small nutdriver and installed the new fuse.

Removed the dryer's back panel and took a look. Had no idea what to do next, so I read up on it. Partselect was extremely helpful to me, the exploded views with the part numbers called out were particularly helpful. So I determined it was the thermal fuse. Unscrewed the screw holding in the fuse and disconnected the electrical supply. New fuse went in really easily. Job took a lot longer than it had to cause since I was in there, I cleaned out the dryer really good.

Why the fuse blew was interesting: had an extension cord routed over the dryer, well it was situated such that it caused the timer knob to bind up. Apparently, the dryer ran all night because of this and blew the fuse. So don't obstruct the knob or you will be replacing a thermal fuse!

Used the video to remove the top and front. Removed the drum. Removed the spindle through the whole next to the spindle. Vacuumed a ton of lint in the dryer and vent pipe. Reassembled in reverse order. Easy repair and a good time to clean the lint.

I followed the instructions on the video and it was simple. The hardest part was vacuuming out 32 years of lint from around the motor and igniter. I was lucky there was never a fire in the dryer.

Did not have a voltmeter to diagnose so bought several thermostats ,fuses, heating element .Replaced them all and the culprit was one of the the thermostats.Good investment and easy install.

unplugged the electrical cord, took the back off the drier, unplugged wires from the bad heat unit. took couple of screws out that hed it in place, removed it , installed the new one plugged wires back , put the back on , plugged in electric cord. turned it on and that was all , works great. the part you guys sent was identical to the original . thanks. Ken

To be short and sweet, the repair was simple once I got the parts I ordered which came really quick. I put them on and it worked fine. Ez to install as well. It only takes half the time to dry, it seems to work better than when it was new. I saved hundreds. The repair man was going to charge $69.99 just to come out to see what the problem was. The parts I needed were under $100 so figured I'd try an do it myself, after reading others repair stories. I did it! I will be a repeat customers if something else breaks down. Thanks Partselect.

unplugged the dryer-- opened the back of dryer--tested the element--found there was a break in the element--ordered a new element--put everything back togethered and it worked. 10 screws held the back wall on--2 screws and 2 wires to disconnect the element---not very difficult!!