110508802 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Unfortunately after i replaced the new switch the drier worked well. After it stopped for the 2nd time we wanted to put a load and start the swit lost contact. It was not working.It lost the contact with the circuit. No clicking sound the drier not functional. I guess need a new switch?

I reviewed several videos on parts sites and YouTube. There is more than enough advice online showing step-by-step instructions. The only difficulty came with the rear nut holding the motor shaft to the blower fan. I used a crescent wrench with a long pipe over it for added torque. The two spring clips holding the motor in place can be removed and installed with the help of a nutdriver pushing the clip down, . The dryer was new enough so the motor needed no switch changes. The new motor is running fine.

Watched the videos for the repairs on the site. Took the back of the dryer off after unplugging the appliance. Removed the failed fuse and thermostat and replaced them both per the video steps. It took about 25 minutes for both parts and the dryer now works well.

Called my son. He took off the back put the belt on and we were ready to go.

First diagnose the problem. No air coming out the exhaust or filter, things aren’t drying, you can’t hear the blower running.
Fuses or breakers are verified ok and on.
Turn dryer off. Disconnect exhaust tubing after unscrewing it’s clamp. Drag the dryer away from the wall to get access to the back and unplug the 220 v power cable from its socket. Get behind the dryer to remove its back cover plate by unscrewing its holding screws with screwdriver or small socket wrenches.
Vacuum out the back of the dryer removing the powdery dust around the blower motor and pulley and remove the old belt.
Since there is no adjustment arm, you have to stretch the belt around the rim of the blower pulley with both thumbs pulling upward against the motor pulley below.
After the belt is in place you can pull on it to be sure both pulleys rotate so the blower fan will rotate. Then just put the back plate on the dryer, replug it in, push it back enough to hook up the exhaust pipe and push the dryer back to its home spot.
Turn it on and you’re ready to go. Then order a spare belt for the future in about 5 + years.

Raise the top off of the dryer with a flat blade screwdriver in each front corner of the dryer. Disconnect power to the dryer. Remove old switch and install new switch. Test door and proper operation of dryer.

Replaced lid switch, but problem still continued.

Repair went well your video was a great help. The motor was hard to disconnect from the blower and fan side.The shaft that you hold with the adjustable plier was hard plastic type of material and wanted to keep slipping and the edges wanted to round off and not hold in the adjustable pliers. I had to use a small pipe wrench with teeth to break it loose. The only other problem was the ground screw in the new motor had an odd type of head on it and took a special type of nutdriver attachment to loosen it and attach the ground wire to the new motor.

Your web site is amazing Ive enjoyed watching your videos,this is a really great way to see what it takes to repair your washer very informative. Steve was a good teacher for me I just followed along as he explained each step and my washer came apart just like he said. I removed the two front console screws and pulled slightly forward and lifted console up and tilted it back where it was out of the way. next I was able to lift cabinet up from the back and remove it from the frame and lay cabinet on the floor on top of a rug I had to protect the finish on cabinet . Now I had access to the lid switch and simply removed the two screws in the cabinet and the old switch. I connected the two wire connections to the new switch (no)normally open connection, used same actuator the instructions say to do this because the one that comes with the new switch won't fit so use the old one. on my washer there's a cover that fits under this switch and It took me a little longer to get the screws to line up so they fit through the switch and into the cover but It worked fine. Now all I had to do was reinstall the cabinet just like Steve did on the video my only problem with this was seeing where the tabs in the frame were located so that the slots in the cabinet would fit over top of frame tabs I used a flash light in one hand and lowered the cabinet down I held the light on the frame tabs and the slots in cabinet fit right in then lowered cabinet to the rear frame tabs where i just had to push slightly on the sides of cabinet and it fit right in.Next i pushed the back panel in place and on the top of washer just like in video reinstalled both spring clip clamps and the console and reinstalled the two screws. I plugged in the washer put drain hose back in drain pushed washer back in place turned it on working great now ! Thank You so much for your help Dan.

Repair was not successful

Order replacement lid switch, installed it, good to go. The installation video and instructions with the replacement part were very helpful.

We actually had to get the repairman back that had repaired our microwave. Our range has the attached microwave above the range. My stovetop light worked prior to the visit. When he left, I prepared supper without the light, which did not go on. Ultimately, we had to replace the fluorscent tube, which thankfully, you had. No appliance store in a 35 mile radius did. We finally got the glass protector off, and the new tube did not go on. Back to the repairman, to tell him the new bulb did not work and that probably something happened when he visited before. He came back, found that indeed a wire had been broken when he was working on the microwave. I had indicated to him I did not expect to pay another repair bill after I had alrealy spent 117. before plus the cost of the new bulb, 22. something including shipping. He obliged and id not charge me anythink to repair the broken wire.
Now I have the old bulb for back up!!!
Thank you for having my replacement tube!!

Pulled back panel off, then removed entire front body. Accessed the blower and the lint cover and removed. Removed drum and belt. Removed motor and replaced, reassembled and plugged in and it worked. Thank you

Removed old catch and strike with screwdriver and needle nose pliers. Installed new parts. My old catch did not have comparible numbers so I just used the yellow one. Worked fine.

Popped out the old door catch kit and replaced it with the new one! Easy!!