11050 - Instructions

First, I wrestled off the top cap of the agitator. Then, I unscrewed the bolt and took out the cam. I noticed that the agitator dogs were worn smooth. I replaced them, put it all back together and VOILA! I bought the whole agitator kit, not knowing what I was going to find, because I wasn't a Magtag repair woman. It ended up that the cam that came in the kit was too big for my washer anyway. Luckily, all I needed was 4 plastic dogs. The price of the whole kit was so inexpensive anyway, it was no big deal. Especially because, I was looking to buy a new washer or a big repair bill. This website is great! Thank you.

First I removed the plastic panels on each side the control panel. Each side was secured by a phillips screw. Once the screws were removed the side panels were easily removed. I tilted the panel back to the rear of the washing machine to expose the lid switch. I first took a picture with my camera phone to ensure installing the switch correctly. I removed a small screw that secured a green ground wire. The lid switch was removed by lifting the plastic catch with a flathead (or slot) screwdriver and uplugging the switch. Reverse the steps and install the new switch. Secure and tighten the green ground wire. The lid must be lifted to properly seat the lid's guide arm into the lid switch. Replace the side panels and tighten the phillip screws. Test the wash cycle using a low water level. It took me 5 minutes to install this part. I am a attorney not a mechanic.

I thought that the lid switch was the problem why the washer would not perform the drain or spin cycle. I broke the lid switch by moving the wires around. I rigged it so my daughter could use it by screwing a screw in the switch til the new one came in. After a few days, the machine stopped working again as stated above with the motor. I purchased a new Whir-pool washer for her and later found a white wire that connects to the electric motor was burnt around the connector in that only one tiny wire was still attached. I reconnected the wire in the connector and the washer started working again.

pressed clip into hole on top of front panel. first remove two philip screws that hold filter so you can lift top up.

!. Removed agitator from inside
2.Removed outside cabinet
3 Removed pump, motor, and transmission.
4. Slid the entire drive unit out of the tub from the bottom
5. Removed the clutch assy. and installed new.
6. Reverseed the procedure to re-assemble.

Unplugged the main power. Removed the 2 screws in the back and top of the control panel. Pulled control panel forward and tipped towards me to remove from top of washer. Removed the ground wire screw with a socket/ratchet. Removed the switch by pressing the tap inwards. The tab was brittle and broke. Replaced the switch, ground wire with screw and the control panel. I notice that the 2 screws which secure the switch lever/hinge to the lid were loose. These 2 loose screws were actually the problem in the first place. The loose lever was not making good contact with the switch. I think the switch was actually fine but since I broke the tab on the switch I needed to replace it anyhow. Plugged in power cord and washed a load.

Our dryer was leaving rust marks on our clothes that looked like a brown pencil mark. It turns out that the rear drum seal in our dryer was absorbing gunk over the years and we had to change it. It was a fairly easy fix but did require pulling the dryer almost completely apart. While we had it apart we changed this as well.

Anyone with a socket stet and screw driver can get it all apart.
On our machine, start by removing the 2 screws that hold the lint filter neck to the top of the machine (under the flap).
Then pry the top of the machine up in the front. It will pop up and you can fold it back.
Then you will need to remove 2 bolts and undo the plug.
From there you can pull the front off and get to the drum.Make sure you note how the belt tensioner comes out (under the drum) and how the belt is routed. It's quite basic.
After you get the drum off, peel the old seal(s) off and put the new seal(s) on as directed.

Pretty easy and our clean clothes stay clean now.

Basically I followed the great instructions provided on the Part Select webpages. I would consider myself to have more common sense than mechanical skill. I didn't want to have to keep going back to purchase more parts so I decided to buy the motor coupler (under $5), new clutch assembly (Under $30), new motor (under $160). The shaft on the original motor wore down to a cylindrical shape which should have been more of a rectangular shape to fit precisely into the motor coupler and provide the grip strength for the washer tub to spin. Usually the no spin problem is linked to a faulty motor coupler. I was glad that I had to removed the motor to reach the motor coupler because in my case the coupler had not failed. That is when I saw the motor shaft had worn. Since I had all the new parts I replaced them all and since 6/13/19 the washer is running like new. Oh, the problem was most likely caused by someone in my family "overloading" the wash machine one too many times over 11 years. Guy's / Gal's you can do this and save yourself from buying a new washer for between $850 - $1,200. My repair expense was under $240 including tax and next day delivery of my parts. Thanks Part Select !!!! Neil

First unplug the washing machine.
Then used a putty knife pushed under the endcap area to release the clips holding the top console down, then lifted the front of the console and tipped it back. Held it in that position with a short piece of wood.

The lid switch was visible right there on the left. Then unplugged the switch, removed the metal screw holding the ground wire, pressed the locking tab on the switch, lifted the washer lid about 3 or 4 inches, and removed the switch. Installation was the reverse procedure. Total time about 10 to 15 minutes.

removed the catch and the pin and replaced it. We were sent a couple different sizes so we tested the one that looked like the closest match. I think the pin was made with different thicknesses of metal. Worked great and saved us from having to get a new dryer!

Took an educated guess it was the lid switch and after playing with the switch got it to work. Ordered new switch. The hard part was to find the model number and thanks to customer service sticking with we. we found the info and was able to come up with a part number. Re placing the switch is very easy but I had to remove the cast after trying to open the machine the wrong way. So a little body work. I also found the frame was cracked and with a fender washer on the other side of the front feet was able to fix that. Washer run great a lot is a lot quieter.THANKS!!

watch utube instruction.easy repair

Removed old drain pump and found a sock in the inlet - must have burned out pump because after removing it pump was still defective. Installed new pump in about 30 minutes and off to the races no more issues

The repair was fairly simple and while it made the spin operation quieter and and a bit more stable, it still gets out of balance. Disconnected power, shutoff supply lines and disconnected them from the unit.

Laid washer on its front and replaced the two more visible springs fairly easily from underneath using a little leverage with a 2 x 4 to take any residual tension off the springs.

Then I turned the washer over on its back (gently and with a little support (board or old thick towel) so the weight of the unit didn't rest entirely on the water intake connectors

Again, lifted the tub with 2 x 4 and disconnected the power and control connector to the motor to make a little more room to get to the spring.

If you do this, be sure to re-connect that connector before you put the washer back and test, otherwise it will fill and then sit.... I had to siphon the tank out, disconnect everything, flip it over and re-connect that power connector!! After that the unit ran better than before, especially on the spin cycle. Over all this washer is 15 years old and worn a bit so we are still careful not to overload it and balance the loading as much as possible. Large bedspreads and king size sheets or mattress covers will always spin out of balance but for 90% of regular washing it was an improvement.

Removed four screws that hold the top control panel to the base and hung over the back panel in order to remove the main wrap-around body of the machine. Took off top plastic ring fastened to side of tub then removed old Balance ring. Installed new balance ring. Unfortunately, this did NOT fix the problem. This was a suggestion from Justanswer.com and failed miserably. Does anybody know how to fix this problem? And it's not the springs or the little plastic shims around the base OR the cross coupling to the motor...