11047542604 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I watched the video and it really was as easy as it looks. Great shipping time, I ordered the pump Monday and it arrived on Thursday, standard ground shipping!

First unplug the washer. Make sure and drain washer completely. If not drained remove front panel , Remove 2.5 inch Plastic drain cover which has a catch bin on it. This will allow it to drain the washer. Put pan underneath to catch the water. Tip washer back and prop up with something 6 inches tall to get to the screws underneath. A cement block would work well. Use pliers to squeeze hose clamp together to remove the Hoses. Gently lift up The flip down cover Over the top of the wire harness Push in the tab on the wire harness, Gently pull back on the wire harness. Remove two mountings screws from the bottom of the washer. Slide the whole pump housing to the right and Lift up. Now the pump is been removed. Inspect inside the hoses For Debrie. Remove anything that is left in the hoses. Reinstall the pump in reverse order from the way you took it off. Leave front panel off Make sure all hoses and wire harness are hooked up. Run wash cycle to make sure there are no leaks. Do not put hands in while running. If no leaks replace front panel. Not sure if this is the right way But this is the way we did it and it worked well. Washer runs quieter now than it did when we got it

First thing, unpluged the washer. I removed the lower front acces panal. I then propped the washer up on 2 pint sized paint cans to reach the pump mounting screws. I disconnected the wire bundle going to the pump. Then removed the inlet and outlet hoses from the pump. Then I removed the 2 mounting screws on bottom and slide the pump to the left and removed. I then pump the new pump on the same way I took the old one off, but in reverse. Easy and fast the worst part was the price of the pump.

Very --simple remove front acess panel -- open sump clean out remove water out of existing pump an hoses with small wet dry vac -- remove small wire harnes --cut band clamp on discharge with side cutter --remove inlet -suction side of pump hose clamp with channel locks --un bolt two screws on bottom side of washer with 5/16 nut runner --discard old pump reinstall new one in reverse order --only takes about 20 mins total !!! ---

I was already very familiar with the motor & drain pump, as I had disassembled my original one in attempt to find the problem & fix it. Finally, I broke down & purchased a new one. It was VERY easy to install! The most difficulty was finding the right sized board to put underneath & raise the machine up (with the dryer attached to the top of it) to place the board underneath so that I could tighten the bolts from underneath to attach the pump. After that was over, the rest was cake! Just attach the hoses & the electrical, which just clips in place & my washer is like new again! Yay! Oh, and yes, I'm a woman DIY'er.

After unplugging the washer, the unit was pulled forward and tipped backwards, I placed a 2x4 under the washer to serve as a brace. I removed the existing bolts holding the old pump in place, removed the spring hose clams, unplugged the pump and removed the damaged part. inserted the new drain pump, re-inserted the bolts and tightened them, replaced the spring clamps with "regular" hose clamps supplied with the replacement part, plugged in the power supply, removed the brace, pushed back the unit and plugged it into the outlet. From start to finish - about 20 minutes. Was running wash about a half hour after I started.

I pulled the front load washer away from the wall and unplugged. I tilted it back against the wall. I removed three screws from the lower front cover plate of washer. Once removed, I had access to the tub to pump hose which I found a small hole in. I went online to Partselect and found my part. The hose was connected in three different places by compression clamps. I then pulled the compression clamps off the connections. Cleaned up all connection points with a damp rag. Upon installation of the new tub to pump hose, I discarded the compression clamps and installed the new part using radiator clamps purchased at a auto parts store. Plugged washer back in and started a load too make sure all connections were good and tight with no leaks. After checking for leaks, I re-installed the front cover plate. Tilted washer back down being careful not too set it down hard or on my feet. Job Done....

Removed top panel. Removed rear panel. Replaced belt. Fairly easy only issue was getting the actual belt pulled enough to wrap around the pulley.

Unplugged washer first! Removed front bottom panel by removing three screws, unscrewed the Drain Plug assembly by turning drain plug counter clockwise with a bucket to catch excess water from washer. Used pliers to remove spring clamps from washer agitator drain hose and then removed the spring clamp from the hose going to drain. Checked hoses for obstructions, then Slide Drain Pump assembly up to the right to remove. Then installed new Drain Pump assembly by sliding pump into slot to the left. Connected the agitator and drain hose to new Drain Pump and fastened with spring clamps. Plugged in AC line cord and turned washer on and started a quick wash cycle to check for leaks and to see if the water drained from washer properly. The water drained from washer and error code did not appear. The error code F21 reappeared during the second wash cycle. After closer inspection with a flash light, I found a large piece of cloth caught between the washer agitator and washer tub covering the drain by shining the flash light up towards the Agitator tub. This was solved by removing the Drain Pump assembly and all of the drain hoses again. Then removing the the large hose from the agitator tub and then removing the large piece of cloth from agitator tub. After reassembly, the washer worked like new!

I purchased the downloadable Maytag Maintenance Manual (PDF format) and followed some of the directions and pointers from this web site. All in all, it was a pretty simple process. 1) Take the top off - 3 metal screws, 2) take the control console and detergent dispenser out - 1 T-20 Torx screw and multiple plastic clips and 1 wire connector, 3) take the lower panel off - 3 metal screws, 4)take bellows retaining ring off -- spring retainer used a needle nose pliers, 4) take off door latching mechanism - 2 T-20 Torx screws and multiple clips + 3 wire connectors, 5) take front panel and door off - 4 metal screws, 6) remove bellows retaining clamp with phillips screw driver, 7) remove old bellows. Reverse the process to install new bellows. On installation, make sure that bellows drain holes are at the bottom of the door. Also, hardest and most time consuming part was installation of the metal retaining ring (spring retainer) fought with it for about a half hour before I finally got it on. BTW all metal screws for my machine were 1/4" head the remainder were all Torx T-20. Good luck!

First, I looked at a replace bellows video on U-Tube that saved a lot of time in knowing how to proceed. You really need nutdrivers as sockets won't fit on the screws. Fitting the bellows on the large drum is not as simple as it appeared in the movie. It took several attempts to get it in place, but it was simple to place the clamp after it was there. Other than that, just follow the steps in the movie for your model

First I removed the bottom panels then the door then the top then the front control panel, I had to go to different web site to get directions on how to do this, after you remove screws you have to unplug U18 from electrical control box. Then remove bumper, find wire around front of bumper and remove using needle nose pliers, then remove back of bumper from tub using phillips head screwdriver. Then with help we replaced with bumper. and put the machine back together. My complaint is there were NO instructions in the box with the bumper and the ones on your web page are not detailed enough. I had to search the web "how to remove maytag door bumper" before I found how to remove it.

Searched internet for diagnosis. Ran diagnostic test using the diagnostic manual from whirlpool. The error code was F29. Replaced door latch but problem was not solved. Then order the Motor Control Unit. Removed old control unit through the top by removing the top washer cover and numbering harness positions with painter's tape. Install the new Control Unit and ran diagnostic procedure. The problem was solved. The washer is working fine.

other than needing a new type of screw driver (not philips or flat head, but rather a starfish looking thing), the replacement was simple. took 5 minutes (after finding the correct driver)

Just went by instructions provided by parts web site