11042924201 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I just take out the botton part and fine what part what i need chage and just chage exactly like the old if yoo dot remember all the wires please take pictures and you hava guia to check went you are finished

removed top cover,disconnected wires to valve,removed valve and hooked up a washer hose to test valve,one side was leaking,valve would not close.replaced with new valve that I received in 2 days,do not buy after market.

The difficult part was getting the water from the washer without making a huge mess. I used a shop vac loosened the cover on the filter/strainer assembly use the shop vac to suck up the water before spills all over. if the tub is full I dumped my shop vac twice total. 1 Remove pedestal drawer 2 removed lower cover to expose mechanicals and pump assembly 3 vac out the water by using above procedure. 4 rotate hose clamps to a position where you can get the needle vice grip on them/remove hose clamps. 5 lift cover exposing electrical connections on the pump assembly depress tab slide connector out. 6 remove 1 torx head screw securing pump to base of washer. 7 remove pump assembly. 8 Reinstall in reverse of above instruction. I also took the lower tub hose off and washed, bleached along with hot water to. clean it

I saw a u tube video and followed the presenters instructions. Very simple instruction very simple repair. The whirlpool duet is a well designed machine with the mechanical parts easily accessible. I know if if would have had a professional service come and repair if it would have cost several hundred dollars. It cost me the parts, $50. 00 (That was for the 3-pack of baffles), 1 beer and my time. "Easy fix".

I followed the guy on the video. The only parts that were tough was having the right tools and having enough space to put the new part in. The part was only 70 dollars and I was so proud that I could do it. I am not very handy so if I can do it then anyone can. Plus I saved some money!

(1) Turn off water valves (2) remove water lines (3) remove three metric star screws from top/back of washer (4) remove to plate (5) remove single screw retaining water inlet valve at back of washer (6) remove electrical connections from water inlet valve and flow meter (7) loosen hose clamps at back of soap dispenser (8) remove assembly/apply new parts (9) reverse above directions. Because the plastic nipple at the back of the soap dispenser was brittle, it partially broke on me. I applied urethane glue to the break and let it dry overnight. Next day I applied marine-grade silicone sealant around the break area. That evening I assembled and then used the washer to test for leaks. Success!

The product came on time and was perfectly rapped , it took me 15 mins to install after watching you tube videos on front loader washer . I was happy I didn't have to call a service man in . . . .

Removed the top of the washer by removing 3 screws on the back and sliding the top back and up. Removed the power cord and pipes. Next removed a screw holding the valve in place. Labeled the wires and pulled them off. The hard part was moving the locking tube ring further back on the tube before pulling the inlet tube off the valve. Reattach the black inlet tube and locking ring. I had to keep working it before it was in the right place. Some have mentioned that the hole didn't line up when they installed the valve. It turns out that there is a small slot in the plastic threaded tubes. One needs to wiggle the valve until the sheet metal rear wall fits in. Then the valve can be slid into position. Attach the mounting screw, hoses, top, power cord and try it out.

Very easy repair, once I read the reviews and watched a couple of you tube videos. I just released the band holding the gasket in place, pulled it back, unscrewed the latch and installed a new one. Less than a 10 min job. I am glad I found this web site, thanks guys!!

Took both the screws out on the top back. Lifted up the back about 1/2 inch and slid to the back. Reached into the front of the washer where the latch was connected. Disconnected the 3 wires (plugs) attached to the latch, took out the 3 screws located inside the washer door. Took a second person just to hold the latch and bring it out after the screws were off the front inside the washer door. Put new latch in, connected the wires, put in the screws behind the washer door (3 of them) and slid the top into place and put the screws in the back. Takes longer to tell you than to do it. Remember the screw on the left side front (top) as you face the washer and remove that screw. The plastic had disintegrated on mine but am not going to replace that part until I have to.

Used nut driver to remove 3 screws from rear of washer and remove washer top. Used Torx driver to remove single screw holding valve assembly in place. Loosened hose clamp with adjustable pliers and then unplugged 6 electrical plugs. Reversed process to put everything back together. Very simple.

1. Unplugged washer. 2. Turned off water supply valves. 3. Disconnected water supply hoses from back of washer. 4. Removed three (3) screws that secure top of washer from top/back of washer. 5. Removed top of washer. 6. Disconnected water outlet line from old inlet valve assembly by releasing clamp. 7. Labeled and disconnected spade connections from old inlet valve. 8. Removed single (1) screw securing old inlet valve in place and removed valve from washer. 9. Re-assembled using new inlet valve lickety split faster than a five-legged skunk.

replaced drain pump.Saved 200$

The water inlet vavle was pretty easy to find once I took the top off. The water input hoses connect directly to it and 2 electrical connection per valve. One screw needs to be removed. The only trick is to slide the valve to the left to remove. It is captured by the sheet metal washer housing at the base of the male hose connetion.

I unplugged the power and tilted the washer back and removed the kick panel. I then unscrewed the pump trap access and set aside. I used the shop vac to remove the remaing water from the washer to the drain pump, unplugged power to the pump, removed the discharge hose and suction hose. After everything was removed, I removed the pump. Everything I read said to take the pump loose before removing everything, it just worked better for me to take everything loose with the pump secure. Going back together I mounted the new pump, plugged it back in (I did not have to remove anything from the plug to use it on the new pump as the insert indicated), installed the discharge hose and the suction hose. I found it easier to rotate the clamp a bit on the sucttion hose to allow me to use my right hand to depress the clamp to get it back in place. Replaced the kick panel, lowered the washer back in place, plugged it in and ran it through a cycle, worked great.