1103398423 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Pried the top up, disconnected the door switch, removed two top screws holding the front panel, disconnected the spring and removed the front panel. Removed the screws and retainer holding the coils, replaced both coils and reversed the process. This was the third component I replaced to solve the problem....a cheap multi-meter and some testing would have solved the problem sooner. We now have the whole heat cycle.

The repair went very smooth. I was able to follow the directions on partselect and had the repair done in 15 minutes. I took extra time to test the continuity on the ignitor and fuses. I also used the shop vac to clean out the inside of the dryer. The best part I liked about this web-site is the fact that once I described the problem I was told that the "M" series style coil was the fix 90% of the time! $27.70 including shipping was all it cost to make my clothes dryer work like it did the first day we got it!!

Wouldn't have had a clue how to gain access to the coils without online instructions. It actually took longer to open the front of the unit than it did to replace the parts. Following the online instructions I removed two screws under the lint trap door. I then used a stiff putty knife under the left and right front corners of the lid to release the top, which I tilted back. Per the instructions I easily located the two screws releasing the front of the dryer. You have to lift the drum a bit to release the front panel. Once removed I was able to remove and replace the failing coils and then reversing the steps to put it all back together. An easy job and the dryer is back in shape.

Watched video. Made this a very easy repair.Will use this site for next repair.

It Went well Part was very fragile

the repair was an easy fix, I removed the two screws from the brackets holding the coils, disconnect and removed them installed the new coils connected plugs turned on dryer and I got heat not bad at all thank you for the help

Removed the two screws fromt he lint track on the top of the dryer. Inserted putty knife between the top of the fromt panel and the dryer top and pushed in to release the two catches for the front panel. I rested the top panel against the wall to get it out of the way of the front panel . Next I removed the two nuts at the top of the front panel . Removed the electrical safety connector for the door using a very small screwdriver to release the catch. Pull up on the front panel to detach it from the bottom catches. I rested the drum on a couple of 2x4s to support it while the front panel was off. Locate the housing for the coils which is on the front of the dryer left side. Remove the cover fromt he coil housing by using a stubby phillips screwdriver and remove the top two screws. Remove the wiring connectors from each of the coils. Replace the coils being careful to align the coils with the "keys" in the housing cover. Reverse the process to complete the job taking care to ensure the felt around the drum does not bind.

The dual cil gas valves were out of resistance range. The new coils were easy to install with a screw driver, sockets set and multi-meter.I checked the coil resistance and one of the new coils were a little high, but I installed them and they have been working fine.

I went onto the Part Select website, they have a problem solving section that told me the most likely part to replace first and a description of the machine and the location of the part. I purchased the part, I unplugged the electric cord first. I then opened up the front of the machine with a philips screw driver, changed the part with the philips scew driver, I put back the front of the machine and the machine worked. It doesn't get any better then that!

Need a short handled phillips screwdriver. Unplug dryer from socket. Remove two screws near the bottom of the front panel. Swing the panel to one side so electrical wire doesn't need disconnection. Remove two screws holding bracket over the two coils. Unplug both coils. Plug in new coils. Replace bracket. Replace front panel. Plug machine back into electrical socket. Problem solved.

I got great advice and the know how form other's instructions. It was a really easy fix. I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas valve. Open up the dryer by taking out the two screws securing the lint screen. Then pop off the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver. Disconnect the door switch and depending on model remove the two screws or bolts that keep the front panel attached. Careful, on my dryer once took the front panel off the drum fell forward. I kept it in place by wedging a small cardboard box under it. Unplug the two wires going into each of the coils. Remember which one goes where(2 prong vs 3 prong). Undue the two screws holding the bracket to the coils and remove bracket and bad coils. Put the new coils in, attach wires and bracket. Put dryer back together. Make sure to remember to plug back in door switch. I forgot and when I tried to test it wouldn't work and it got me worried that I broke it or something.

Opened the top, removed the front panel. Supported the drum with my foot while I replaced the coils. I used a very short screwdriver so I would not have to remove the drum.

The hard part of the repair was the diagnosis. I'd take the front off the dryer, start it up, and the flame would fire up. I'd put it all together, start it, hear the flame start, leave, and it would still be running 4 hours later with the clothes wet. Discovered that one of the gas valve coils would work cool and show connectivity, but would stop working shortly after starting. To check the flame and remove the front, remove the door - 1 phillips screw in each hinge, then jiggle up and down pulling away from the dryer. Then, two screws on the opposite side. Facing the opening, grasp front and pull toward you to swing it down. You can temporarily put the door back with the front off while you start it to watch the flame cycle. On regular heat, the flame will run pretty much continuously - in my case, it would start, run for about 1 minute then stop. I assumed it was cycling, but it really runs longer than that. Coil replacement was easy - unplug the dryer, pry off the electrical connectors, remove the two screws on the left which hold the retainer containing the coils Then pull the coils straight up and replace with new ones. The one with three connectors is in front; the one with two connectors in the back. There are plastic tabs on the coils which fit into holes on the retainer. Reassemble in reverse order. To confirm diagnosis, you can use an ohmmeter to check continuity of the coils. The front coil has continuity between the center connector and each of the side connectors. The back coil has continuity between the two connectors. If you're not getting a reading at 1k ohms, it's probably an open coil and needs replacement.

Since the power and gas to the dryer were both already turned off all I had to was open the top of the dryer, remove the front panel, look underneath the drying drum and remove the belt tensioner from the belt and slide the drying drum out. While things were open I took my vacuum and vacuumed all the lint, dirt and loose articles from over time out of the dryer interior. I located the igniter, used a nut driver to remove one screw pulled the igniter from its housing and disconnected the wiring harness. For installation I reversed the process and I was done. I reinstalled the drying drum, reattached the belt tensioner, put the front panel back in place and closed the dryer top. Attached the dryer vent hose, plugged the dryer to the electrical outlet, turned on the gas and walla it purred like a kitten. It even seem to dry faster than before.

Checked the resistor to confirm it was good. Removed the two screws that are accessible after you pull the lint screen out. Use puddy knife to release the two plastic clips that hold the top on. The top will pop up like car hood. You have to pull up on it with steady pressure. I used a plastic puddy knife to prevent scratching anything. Prop top up so it does not fall back down and strike your head or fingers. On each side inside the housing there is a sheet metal screw that holds the front of the dryer on. Before you remove them unplug the door switch wire. As you get these off you will notice that the whole front is loose and the drum looks like it will fall out. It may if you mess with it. Gently tip the front away from the dryer housing and drum assembly. After the front is out about 5 inches pull up and the bottom can be moved away out of the small hook clips. Set it aside. The burner assembly is on the lower left. The coils are there remove the sheet metal screws and lift it up. Remove them one at a time. Notice the small locate pin and position the coil in the same orientation assemble in reverse. The door is tricky to get back on. Don't forget to unplug before doing any work. This can be done without disconnecting the gas service.