11027132410 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

1.) disconnect power to your washer. Turn off water supply and disconnect from the washer.

open the washer top and remove plastic cap from the wash plate

2.) using 7/16 socket, remove bolt from the wash plate. If you can't remove it with a socket , I recommend using impact wrench.

3.) remove wash plate ( you might need to spray penetrating oil or wd40 inside the bolt hole to loosen it.
Check to make sure the wash plate gear grooves are not worn down, if they are, replace it.

4.) using your Maytag specific spaner nut wrench, remove the spaner nut from the shaft of the gear case. This should be right underneath where the wash plate was. If you can't turn it by hand , use a rubber mallet or hammer to encourage it.

5.) some people remove the wash basket at this point. I don't think it is necessary.

6.) close your washing machine. Tape the top closed to keep it from flying open. Tilt your washer back and prop it up where you have access to the underside of the washing machine.

7) remove motor rotor bolt and pull rotor off of the motor.

8.) disconnect the two wire connectors that supply power to motor. using a socket, remove bolts that are keeping motor attached to the gear case.

9.) Now that the gear case is all the is remaining on the underside, you can remove the 4 bolts that are holding the gear case to the washer. Now try to pull gear case out.

10.) if gearcase will not pull out, lower washer back to upright position. Spray penetrating oil or wd40 around the shaft of the gearcase and allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes. Using a hammer, lightly tap on the shaft of the gearcase and it should now fall out. ( you might have to apply penetrating oil again, or apply more force with the hammer.

11.) reinstall motor to new gearcase. Insert new gear case to the washer. Reinstall bolts and reconnect power supply wires.

12. ReInstall spaner nut inside the washer, reinstall wash plate.

Removed two screws on back of lid to raise top removed tub one bolt and one spanernut pulled tub lowered top reinstalled screws laid washer down to get to bottom of washer unplugged wiring removed four bolts pulled gear box and motor removed motor from gear box installed motor on new gear box reassemble washer

DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.

Nothing to it. Just remember to put the insert in the knob, NOT on the selector stem. Line up the flat part of the insert with the flat part of the stem and push the knob in place.

Don NOT ram it on the selector stem. When it's seated, don't push any more. That's all there is to it. It works. If the pointer on the knob indicates the selector is lined up correctly, but it isn't, the problem is the selector, not the knob.

Disconnected water and unplugged. Took off top and control panel. Replaced water inlet valve with new one. Simple plug and play connections. It was easy to see the old valve was bad with rust and sediment collecting on hot side.

Removed two screws that held the control panel from the back with a power drill. Pop the control panel loose with a screwdriver from the top of the machine with the quick disconnects. After turning both the hot and cold water off I remove the hoses with pliers removed two screws with the power drill that hold the water inlet valve in place disconnected the wire harness plug And removed water inlet valve swap, the original harness to the new water inlet valve and follow the steps backwards to finish

Removed three screws on back to open top panel, used small vice grip to pull on suspension rod to unhook and remove from the drum. Remove and replaced one at a time so the rods keep drum suspended and prevent from dropping in the cabinet . Reinstalled top panel and done .Very easy completed in about 20 minutes.

I removed the 2 hose clamps connecting to the pump, removed 3 screws holding pump in place, and disconnected 2 wires plugged into pump. Put the new pump on in reverse order.

Turned off power and water. Removed hoses/Unplugged power. Removed screws to open and access control panel. Removed existing valve first by pinching off 6 wire connectors then screws securing valve to washer base. At this point, I replaced with new valve and reattached everything. I also added screen washers to both hoses as I suspect it was built up debris in original valve impeding water flow through valve that led to problem…

Watched and followed You Tube Video . "Solved: The Fix for a Whirlpool Washing Machine that won't fill with water." The video is a little over 8 minutes long. At that start of the video he encourages you to watch all of the video for special instructions near the end of the video. You need to do that! I put 30-60 minutes, but actual time was 4 days as I had to order parts and wait for the parts to arrive.

a couple of issues to get valve out and off , 15 min. install and top back on!!!

I used a small flat head screwdriver inserted into slots just under the cap and pried off the cap. The cap should come off very easy.
Replace with the new cap.

The video was excellent in what needed to be accomplished. However it showed reaching inside the tub with vise grips to grab the old spring. This worked fine for removing them but the installation of the new spring did not allow my hand and vise grip to secure the new spring and pull it up and insert it into the retainer. I found that by taking a cord and putting it through the socket and retainer allowed me to pull straight up and seat it in the retainer a lot easier.

I was sent the wrong part , when I questioned them said they did not have it so was directed to Whirlpool and they are making it and I might get it in May

Pried open the top of the machine. Used a putty knife. This was the hardest part of the job. Take your time. Took off upper plate of the back of machine, to free the value. Unplugged the power wires from the old valve and unscrewed it. Put in the new one and reversed processes. Easy peezy. Great deal on part. Saved hundreds of dollars doing it myself