11027112600 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I tried to remove the outer console to get to the tub wear pads easier. This proved difficult for me for some reason. So I tipped the machine on its back at about a 45 degree angle. You will see the tripod support holding up the tub. The pads lie in between the bottom of the tub and on top of the tripod support . You won't be able to see the pads since the are on the top of the support, but you will see the two insert tabs of each pad sticking out. There are about 120 degrees apart from each other. I pushed up on the tub and slipped the piece of wood in between the tub and tripod support close to the pad. Taking a screwdriver and hammer I punched out the wear pad insert tabs. You can replace the old pad with the new one by using some force with your hands. Some pop right in and some you need to use a little leverage, maybe with the piece of wood you used to hold up the tub. Be careful not to get the pads greasy, keep clean as possible. Worked great.

Followed direction that was sent to my e-mail. My washer timer would not advance. I' am so happy for the directions sent to me from this site and being able to get the part that I, needed from this site. I, didn't have and business doing the job myself, because I'm a ill 66 year old female. There's no special instructions that I, have to add. !! Thanks !! Lewis

Removed old tube and replaced with new version. Replacement slightly different than original since the new part included a feature that appears to prevent the problem. New part still fit and is operating well so far.

Pretty much like shown in the video tutorial however I didn't disconnect the water hoses. I unplugged the machine and pulled it forward 6 inches. Took it apart like in the video but because of space restrictions I took the cabinet into another room to replace the switch and then re-assembled. The hardest part was getting the cabinet to re-seat as before. It took several attempts but it's all done and the machine is working like a champ. I listed a magnet because I use them to keep the nuts and screws from getting lost

Siphon break kit keeps washing machine from continuing to siphon after rinse/cycle -- like emptying a pool with a hose. Fixed the problem of the tub never filling due to siphon draining out water as it's being put in.

Unplugged the AC cord and turned off the two water lines. Removed the control panel on top of the machine by removing four screws. Removed two clips that fastened the top of the machine to the rear panel. Tilted the cabinet forward a little bit and unplugged the switch. Removed the switch with the two philips screws and installed the new switch and plugged in the plug on the end of the wiring harness. Then reassembled everything. Cleaned the mess and plugged in the AC cord. turned the water on and everything worked perfect.

On this model, no need to tip washer on back. Tilt console back and disconnect lid switch. Remove two clips holding back to top of washer (under console). Then remove top and front as directed in the video. The pump is accessible from the front of the unit, just below the tub. Hose clamps are easy to remove/replace. Took more time to wipe inside of washer clean than to remove/replace the water pump. Total time was just over 30 minutes.

Replaced the springs after watching the video's from this site and problem has been solved.

1. Watch a video on installation, there are many on the internet.
(unplug the washer)
2. remove the screws on the back of the control panel to lift the control panel out of the way.
3. use a flat head screwdriver to remove the clips that hold the cabinet to the back panel.
4. disconnect the lid switch from the control panel by removing the clip that connects them at the top of the cabinet.
5. tilt the cabinet forward to remove it.
6. use a flat head screw driver to remove the two clips that hold the water pump to the motor and swing the water pump out of the way.
7. use a nut driver to remove the shipping screw that holds the clips on to the motor.
8. disconnect the wiring harness from the motor
9. remove the two clips from the motor with a flat head screwdriver and remove the motor
remove the three prong coupler and rubber gasket from the old motor and put them on the shaft of the new motor
10. remove the 4 rubber pads from the old motor and slide them onto the new motor.
11. insert the new motor into the washer aligning the prongs of the coupler.
12 reassemble the washer in reverse order of disassembly
(the shipping screw does not need to be reinserted into the spring clip that holds the motor)

I found the problem when I leaned on the lid while it started and that pressure kept it running. By placing detergent bottles on the right side of the lid I was able to walk away. I then bought the lid switch and lid strike after seeing it is a common problem. I watched the video and followed it almost step by step. First I unplugged the washer but didn't unhook the hose (only because I didn't have to move the washer) then I unscrewed the two screws holding the control panel, flipped it over, unplugged the lid switch connector, removed the clips holding the washer body on and tilted the body far enough forward to work on it. I replaced the switch as was done in the video and put the washer back together opposite the way I took it apart.

I just replaced the spring just like the vid show me.it run's like a new one-I bought it used about 5 yr's ago

researched the problem from the web-site.found the three most common things that would cause the problem.inspected the washer to see if there was evidence that one of the described parts had falled,and found that the tub wear pads were missing do to wear.simply replaced and it solved the problem. Thanks for the information.

unplugged washer. Remove 4 screws (Phillip's screwdriver) from back panel. Lift panel up. unplug switch remove ground wire (open end wrench) Remove ground screw. Removed switch wire from clips. Put in new switch & ground wire-less than 30 minutes.

Your service was excellent! Fast
Worse was moving the washer

The tough part was replacing the front cabinet.
I did consult the video for help on replacing the clutch spring.
Thank you for that bit.

I admit to taking too much apart, most of the cabinet back can be left alone.
Some of the plastic wire keepers/routers suffered, as well as the console hinges.

The newly reassembled washer works without a hitch, and truely it took me about 4 hours over several days to dissamble and reassemble.
It is louder in the audible range than before, but very serviceale for another 20 years, saints willing.

The machine was not designed for quick repairs. The top, front and sides of the machine are all one piece. I had to remove the screws on the lower back access panel. Then remove the water lines, ground screw and outlet hose. I then had to remove the two screws holding the control panel in place. I then bumped the control panel loose. I could then move the back access panel, which is the entire back of the machine, upward to remove it from the clips, located under the control panel. The back access panel will then move away from the machine about 3-4 inches. From the back of the machine, I then had my son tilt the top and sides of the machine forward, leaving enough space for me to reach through the gap and remove the ground screw from the switch. I could then remove the entire switch by pulling it loose from the clips under the top housing and unplugged it from the connection. I then could attach the new ground wire and holding the new switch in place, I had my son secure the switch to the washer. I then had to clip the new switch along the inside of the housing and plug it in to the connection. We then had to realign the sides of the washer with the base, as we lowered it back into place. Holding them in place, we could then reattach the back access panel, loosely, by replacing the two screws on the lower back panel.. Then, aligning the clips that are located under the control panel, we attached the top of the access panel and tightened the screws at the bottom to secure the entire access panel in place. At this point, we could reattach the control panel, water lines, ground wire and outlet hose. It would have saved about two hours of time if the top of the washer was hinged and could have been tilted back to expose the lid switch and tub. Removing the water lines and the outlet hose also allows water to spill, as the tub drains. PartSelect was extremely quick in getting the switch to me. I ordered it on Friday and it arrived on Saturday morning. With five people in our household, clothes washing is a daily chore. We didn't miss a beat. Now, if the engineers at KitchenAid could use a little common sense in designing their products it would make repairs quicker and with less cleanup.