11027062604 Kenmore Washer - Instructions
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Thwe washer continually went off balance and displayed UL code
The instructions displayed the parts location and and some instruction. The top of the unit will release and pivot up after the two catches at the front are presed in at the front seam. The catches are located about 6 inches in from the sides. Before lifting the top though you should secure the lid to the top. I used some masking tape. Pivot the top up and brace the top to prevent it from falling back too far or forward over your work access. I leaned the top back against the wall behind the washer. Once the top was secure I began by lifting one conner of the tub assembly so that a corner dampner assembly could be removed. The top of the dampener assembly has a loop which grabes the plastic cup at the top frame of the washer. Lift the tub assembly (about 30lbs) on one corner and as the hook becomes free rotate the plastic cup to disengage the hook from the cup. To make it easier to work inside the washer frame I used the bar clamp to hold the tub asembly to one side so that I could reach along the damper assembly to pop loose the top retainer at the tub by pushing down with a screwdriver. Once the dampener assembly was loose it can be removed and the new one inserted in its place. I repeated these steps for each dampener and was done in about 30 minutes. You may want to note there is a wire clip on the right rear dampener and this was easily removed and reinstalled on the new assembly.
Parts Used:
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Richard from Dallas, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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The washer was trying to walk off during the spin cycle.
Well i watched a video on youtube that demonstrated the repair, and it seemed easy enough, so i ordered the parts which arrived quickly enough that we avoided a trip to the laundry mat, very cool! So i did just what they said to do, unplug machine, tape down the lid, use a putty knife to pop the retaining springs in front. I used a long screwdriver to hold up rod on top and then rotate the ball around and let the rod fall through, them i used a yard stick to pop out cup on bottom. I did have assistance holding the drum back so i could see, Then i reversed the process with a new rod. The only reason it took 30 min was i did not put the cups under the balls on top, because it didnt have them in the first place, i decided to put them in after then reading the instructions. The machine runs like new, and my wife is very happy!!
Parts Used:
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James from Alvin, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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My lid lock assembly was bad and therefore the washer lid would not lock to allow for washing.
Went to youtube.com and watched the video that took you step by step in replacing the lid lock assembly.
Parts Used:
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Kelly from Petersburg, WV
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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vigoirously shaking causung UL code
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Josh from Lodi, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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washer kept going out of balance
Removed cover and removed rods,replacing them one at a time.
Parts Used:
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Bill from Gore, OK
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Code F51 Washer would not spin.
I disassembled the top half of the machine removed the drum and found a bad bearing. The code F51 said i had a bad motor control board. I had a frozen bearing on the main shaft. Freed up bearing, machine now runs but I need to replace the bearing,
Parts Used:
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Fred from Valparaiso, IN
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Socket set
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Drain Pump Leaks
Disconnect power and water. Remove the back panel of the washer. The drain pump is on the lower left corner (looking at the washer from the back). Access the electrical connection to the pump motor by lifting the lid where the wire enters the motor. You should be able to do this with your fingers and moderate pressure. Disconnect the electrical plug from the pump motor. Use pliers to remove the two hose clamps, one on the inlet and one on the outlet. Water may leak at this point so have some towels ready. Using a 5/16 wrench/nut driver, remove three hex head self threading bolds that connect the pump and motor to the underside of the tub. The replacement pump and motor go in in reverse order. Note that the replacement pump comes with a moisture shield. The shield installs on top of the new pump between the tub and the pump. It is difficult to see how the shield fits in place when fitting it to the replacement pump. The best way to see how the shield fits in place is to align it on the tub where the defective part was removed. Before testing the repaired washer, consider removing the inner tub and drain compartment cover (located at the bottom back of the inside of the washer). This takes some effort; however, it will save you from repeating this repair. Look for coins or other debris under the inner tub. For instructions on removing the inner tub and drain cover, go to youtube to watch or search for the model number and tub removal on your favorite search engine or youtube. Finally, use the spin and rinse cycle to test the repair. Look to see the pump drains the washer and ensure there are no leaks around any of the hose clamps. Good luck with your do it yourself home repair.
Parts Used:
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Stuart from King George, VA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
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noisy
Removed old tub assembly and installed new tub. Job took a little longer due to first new tub arrived damaged and I had to partially reassemble machine temporarily until second tub arrived.
Parts Used:
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Donald from Ormand Beach, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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