11026809690 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Completely dismantled washer per video , replaced gasket and spanner nut, then re-assembled washer. I’m a 58 year old female. It was tough. Main issue was that video was for dif. Model washer. Had to figure out some things myself.

After removing the bolt (7/16" head), and using a pair of pliers to remove the 3-4 in deep "cup", it was immediately obvious how to assemble the new cup and pawls (ratchets).

Orienting the black "bearing" was not so obvious, but on closer inspection of the illustration, it became clear. The four "ears" of the bearing go closest to the pawls. The little tabs that are co-planar to the ears fit into the four grooves of the new cup.

And here's the trick (besides making REALLY, REALLY SURE how the pawls orient)--Soak the black bearing piece in hot water to soften it up, and let it slide over the cup better. If you don't, you risk breaking it. If you do, it slides over and "clicjs" into place, with the ears resting right against the bottom lip of the cup, capturing the pawls.

Installation back into the washer is obvious.

The thing works like a charm! It hasn't worked this well for a decade!

Before I start, I should clarify that before I replaced the water level pressure switch I replaced the water inlet valve (aka solenoid). Past experience had taught me that the solenoid was a likely cause, I never thought about the water level swtich. Replacing the solenoid was 75% of the time involved, only because I had to disconnect hoses and figure out how to get to the solenoid. When that didn't solve the problem the likely culprit was the water level swtich so I didn't even test it I just changed it. I'm not sorry I replaced both parts. The gunk that had blocked the filters to the solenoid would have caused problems soon anyway. Replacing the water level switch took 15 minutes or less because it was so easy to access. Washer loads fine now!

Unplugged the appliance. turned off inlet water and removed hoses. popped the cap off hiding the bolt that keeps the agitator in place and pulled the agitator off. tipped the washer on its front . disconnected the Wire harness. removed the 3 bolts that hold the pump, motor,clutch, (drive assembly in other words). pulled the Drive assembly out of its resting spot removed the bad clutch and replaced it with the new one. then reassembled in reverse order.

Tilt machine on its side,snap off the two retaining straps and remove the pump and sanded the shaft on the electric drive motor to remove rust ,Install new pump and retaining straps and unit now running great.

Took the agitator out and gearbox off unhook wires from motor and take off water pump, replaced the parts and put back together. Pretty easy to fix. However, I still haven't got my problem fixed. Originally the washer wouldn't spin after the rinse. I put on a new coupler and it worked for a few loads, then something smelled hot and started stinkin the house up so I opened the washer lid and smoke rolled out. Turned it off. Took the moter off and checked it and it would barely turn at all. Replaced the motor with a new one. Still wouldn't spin. Put on a new clutch assembly. Still wouldn't spin. Bought a new capacitor thinking that would do it. Still don't SPIN!!! (The ring and washer I replaced was just a casualty, not any of the problem).

First, I wrestled off the top cap of the agitator. Then, I unscrewed the bolt and took out the cam. I noticed that the agitator dogs were worn smooth. I replaced them, put it all back together and VOILA! I bought the whole agitator kit, not knowing what I was going to find, because I wasn't a Magtag repair woman. It ended up that the cam that came in the kit was too big for my washer anyway. Luckily, all I needed was 4 plastic dogs. The price of the whole kit was so inexpensive anyway, it was no big deal. Especially because, I was looking to buy a new washer or a big repair bill. This website is great! Thank you.

placed washer on side and installed new pads
and returned washer upright

3 online people recommended tilting the machine on the side and replacing the 3 suspension springs. Someone else recommended changing the tub pads. That is the wrong approach. It is actually easier to remove the case than turn the machine on the side. Once you do it once or twice it takes less than 2 minutes and it doesn't distort the suspension. You don't even have to disconnect the hoses. When I originally examined the machine lying on it's side I saw that the tub balance spring was still attached to the tub but the other end had detached. I looked for the place to reattach it. I found a place on the glide plate. Unfortunately this was the wrong place and the machine continued to bang away. When I realized that the spring had to be attached to the lower frame rather than the glide plate (one week of looking). I even wrote to the Repair guru. Once I found my mistake the repair took 5 minutes and no tools other than the phillips screwdriver to take out the 2 screws for the case. I replaced the tub balancing spring for good measure. The machine works great.

Once I finally found the part I needed, the repair was very simple and took only a few minutes. Thanks to the very helpful operator to walk me through the diagram to find the corresponding number for the part. I really appreciate your help!

Pop off the softener dispenser. Pull the cover/ seal out of the upper agitator. With 7/16" socket and extesion bar, remove bolt and pull upper agitator straight up and off. dump out old assembly and replace with new assembly. Set back in place and replace bolt. Repair kit comes with good instructions and new rubber O ring for bolt cover/ seal. (thanks).
The suspension spring takes more effort but not hard. with washer laying on face I used a piece of 2x4 to pick up the tub in the direction of the broken spring. Put the new spring through the wire hook loop and snake it through the slot in the frame and you can see how it locks in place. With the 2x4, push the tub toward the new spring until you can hook it through the slot on the tub frame. Done. Parts cost less than an estimate from a service call and I finished the job in 30 minutes, which includes unplugging the power cord, turning off the water and taking off the hoses so I could lay the washer down. Saved the website in my favorites for the same great prices and fast shipping next time.

The repair was fairly simple and while it made the spin operation quieter and and a bit more stable, it still gets out of balance. Disconnected power, shutoff supply lines and disconnected them from the unit.

Laid washer on its front and replaced the two more visible springs fairly easily from underneath using a little leverage with a 2 x 4 to take any residual tension off the springs.

Then I turned the washer over on its back (gently and with a little support (board or old thick towel) so the weight of the unit didn't rest entirely on the water intake connectors

Again, lifted the tub with 2 x 4 and disconnected the power and control connector to the motor to make a little more room to get to the spring.

If you do this, be sure to re-connect that connector before you put the washer back and test, otherwise it will fill and then sit.... I had to siphon the tank out, disconnect everything, flip it over and re-connect that power connector!! After that the unit ran better than before, especially on the spin cycle. Over all this washer is 15 years old and worn a bit so we are still careful not to overload it and balance the loading as much as possible. Large bedspreads and king size sheets or mattress covers will always spin out of balance but for 90% of regular washing it was an improvement.

I watched the video from the web site, decided that pulling the whole case was more work than needed. I tipped the washer back at about 45 degrees so that I could get under it and braced it so that it would not fall back fwd. Put a medium cooking bowl under the pump, used a channel locks to remove the 2 spring clamps that where around the hoses and slide the hoses off and let the water drain into the bowl. Then used a medium straight slot screw driver to release the clips from each side of the pump and slid the pump off the shaft. If you turn the clips 90 degrees they will slip out and had to remove the upper clip to get the pump out. Lined up the pump and the shaft making sure that the flat side of shaft and pump lined up and slid it on. Reinstalled the pump clips and slid the hoses back on the pump slide the clamps back in place lowered the washer and test ran it for leaks. Great Job NO leaks. Whole job took me less than 30 minutes.

Remove the washer case/enclosure to expose all the internal parts. Lie on the floor and with pliers and a strong arm. Remove and replace each spring one at a time. Pretty straightforward.

Took off softener dispenser, pried off top of agitator, removed bolt from top of agitator.

Then pulled out the agitator assembly for easier access.

Used screwdriver to brake small plastic keepers holding secondary agitator ratchet clutch to the secondary agitator.

Assembled and inserted new ratchet mechanism in the top of the agitator, making sure 4 small square pegs protruding from the end of the new assembly fully entered into mating holes on the secondary agitator.

Placed the agitator back on the agitator post and installed and secured bolt. Replaced cap and installed softener dispenser.