11022352512 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

There are a lot of complaints, with these new energy efficient washers, no matter the brand, on the amount of water that is being used, and not properly washing your cloths, while in the wash cycle.
I got this new MayTag washer, and wanted to see it work, for myself, so I can try to correct the problem. But in order to see it work, and fill, the lid has to be open, to observe it working.
To do so, there is a part connected to the lid, called a "STRIKE", that when the lid is down, it activates the electronics, making the washer run.
So, I purchased this strike, to insert it in the washer, so I can observe the washer running, while the lid is open. Very easy, no tools required, just stick it in the slot, where the strike, on the lid goes, when the lid is closed.

W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit

Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.

When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.

Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.

Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.

Getting to the actual hub is a bit difficult as it involves removing the accetuator and takes some time and patience, but when I tried to replace with a new hub, I found that the screws were stripped, so PartSelect walked me through the ordering process and helped me choose the exact size screws that I needed. Parts came quickly...I already had the hub waiting to be secured and the screws tightened easily. (We had tried using a similar size, but you REALLY need the whirlpool screws that go in there) No more spinning problems, and the machine is not jumping around anymore. Works just like before. This particular machine has to have this part replaced at least twice a year (luckily it's cheap),but saves us from having to buy a whole new machine. My son also told me that since I replace the part so often, best to replace the screws every other time as well.

Removed old one (2 screws) slid in place and screwed in.

My fault completely! I shut a valve off to a spicket that I have in my garage due to a Nebraska winter. The problem turned out to be that my washer was receiving its cold water from the line that I shut off. So it was an expensive lesson to learn after replacing the switch harness and the latch. Water was turned off Ding Dong!

DIY'er working on a Maytag Centennial type washing machine should be aware that replacing a a transmission or agitator due to worn out splines is only half a job done well. I originally replaced my transmission due to worn splines, only to discover later that the worn agitator splines caused the new transmission splines to wear out at an accelerated rate. Transmission and Agitator should be replaced together, along with a new Agitator mounting bolt. There are plenty of video's online of how to do this repair so I won't get into that here. Just wanted to drop the above sage advice. Transmissions for these washers aren't cheap.

The belt in this model is underneath the washing machine. Disconnect water lines and power cords, set up the drain hose in a bucket to avoid water spilling on the floor, tip the washing machine on its back, remove two bolt screws holding the plastic covering the belt, remove the old belt, and install the new one.

Royal pain getting the wash plate off. I'm 6 foot 215 lbs with muscular arms( beer belly too) and I could not get it to come off. Put hay bail twine around the edge and pulled up so hard the entire machine came off the ground. Luckily I am married. Yep I pulled one end of the string and her the other and it flew off. Part select was $10 cheaper than whirlpool and was a perfect match. I might order another to have because like stated earlier I'm married. She is married to me and the washer and dryer.

I watched the video and did exactly what they said to do. It was really easy. The key to the success was in the parts that were mailed to me it had a separate piece of paper telling you to "reset" the washer after doing the repair. I missed this when I watched the video. That was a critical part of the repair which required no tools to accomplish.
I have done 6 loads of wash and the washer has not made any crazy noises and hasn't moved!

remove basket and replace drive hub kit

Watched your videos. Knew I didn’t have the strength to do it myself. Contacted my son, he came by and using your instructions( you made me look very knowledgeable) it was done in short order!

I put the dial to drain and and pressed the pause button for 3 seconds and it drained.
Unplugged the washer from the electrical outlet .
Shut the hot and cold water off. Disconnected and drained them.
Placed the washer on a soft mat on front side exposing the back and bottom of the machine.
Unscrew the metal cover with Philips head screw driver.
Disconnect the drain hose to a bucket or small dish tub .
Remove the belt cover with 5/8 ratchet or wrench.
Using a ratchet or wrench remove the one bolt holding the clutch in place .
Remove the two Philips head screws from the shift mechanism ( looks like clock timer,my memory is failing me right now sorry! ) .
Pull down on bottom gear after removing nut.
Push in and pull down with a flat head screwdriver on the tabs holding the collar in place above the top gear .The collar and gear and spring should come apart.
Install new parts in the same order . Reassemble make sure to use Locktite 242 on the bottom nut holding the gear.
Install belt , belt guard , cover drain hose . Stand machine back up , reconnect all hoses tightly plug machine into electrical outlet and start. Put a smile on your face because you did a great job and saved yourself some money!

Ordered the part for the 500 series Kenmore washer open the top switch the two parts out and reconnected the new part replace the covers they only thing is cold is hot and the hot is cold even with it connect correct I just put on opposite settings and go with it

Followed detailed instructions which were supplied with the parts. It was easy and my machine is working great with no issues. Also I just didn’t get the main drive pulley, all new parts came for the bottom end, great service and excellent parts.

Replaced each hose. Did discover that either hose can be used for hot or cold water lines. No longer required to label hot and cold replacement hoses.