1093B1A Roper Wall Oven - Instructions

We did a lot of googling for repair stories, how to use circuit testers, schematics and part identifications. The stories and guides we ran across were very helpful. It was a little complicated but well worth it as it saved us from shelling out big bucks for a new dryer. Thank goodness for PartSelect as they had good information and made it very easy to look at the parts and order the one we needed. They were very prompt in shipping it out as well.

installed new element within 15min... no need to pay the man .. will DIY again using this parts service...

The biggest problem was getting the back of my dryer off. After that, the heating element was relatively easy. I followed the steps from this site. First I removed the two screws holding the heating cannister in place and disconnected the two wires connected to the actual element. The Element slid right out and I replaced it with the new one that came (delivered in two days after I ordered it). Then I just redid everything in reverse to get the back back on to the dryer, plugged it in and got heat right away!

I would not consider myself a do it yourselfer as I have done appliance service since 1970 but now work as an instrumentation technician.

I'm good with tools so it was like 1 2 3 done,and it works like new. mike

First, I tilted the dryer forward and leaned it carefully against the wall to gain access to the back cover. Used a nut driver to remove 5 screws holding the back cover. Tested the heating element using a multi-meter and it showed an open circuit. I tested the thermostat and a few other switches and they were all ok, so I knew for sure it was the heating element only. The part arrived in 2 days which was great, cause with 3 kids, dirty clothes pile up fast. I pulled several set of wires for the thermostat, switches etc. marking the wires to make sure I put them back correctly. I loosened the heating element housing by removing one screw at the top (with a clip attached) and one at the bottom. I pulled the housing out, then pulled the element out of it's cover and slid the new one in back in it's place. Screwed the cover back in, put the wires back into place and replaced the back cover. I made a few rookie mistakes during the process, but we won't discuss those. Anyway, bottom line is...the dryer worked perfectly...laundry time.

Took off the back panel, and with a little prying got the heating element case off (it's on the right of my LE5800XK). Replaced the heating element, put everything back, and voila, works better than before.

I first disconnected the power, dryer vent hose, back panel, disconnected power leads to heater element. Next removed top screw to the heater box, slid the box up and away from lower mount. At this point I was able to remove 1 ea lower screw holding heater element in place. Removed heater element and installed new element. Put everything back in reverse order and started dryer. (Note: Be sure dryer door is closed prior to starting dryer)Yep, I screwed that up. It no "worky" when dryer door is open. Once the door was shut, it worked like a champ.

Replaced heating element,thermal fuse,cycling thermostat,thermal cut off kit and don't forget to flip your dryer fuse in the breaker panel that was a big one for me. Hope this helps you.

I read all the other stories and thought this would be a piece of cake. No one mentioned that you had to remove a small piece a metal holding the element casing from underneath the top of the dryer. Very hard to reach that screw. Then no one mentioned that the element casing had to be pulled out of the hole at the back of the dryer before you could remove the element. If i had known these things ahead of time, it would have been a simple project. After all is done, the element was not the problem. Now i think i need a thermostat. lol!!!!!

I followed the instructions provided by another user... worked like a champ!

Jacquie

Remove screws at lint filter, open top of dryer. Remove hex screw holding top of element casing. Slide dryer away from wall, remove 5 hex heads from rear panel, exposing element casing. Remove two screws holding sensors, and move aside. Lift dryer casing slightly and pull towards you to disengage from rear panel. Turn over and remove srew holding element to casing at bottom. Slide element out, and unplug two wires, noting position of each wire. Reverse procedure to reinstall element. Dryer works better than it has for years !

Fairly straight forward except for hidden 5/16 self tap screw coming from back side of heat ducting that is welded to drier. You have to remove this by feel and restart by feel which may be difficult for some. This screw holds the element to the heat duct. It has to come out

Unplugged dryer. Removed back panel from dryer. Using needlenose pliers, disconnected wires going into heating element housing cover. They basically just unplug. You have to wiggle them a little with the pliers to get them unplugged. The housing cover is the large metal piece on the right side of the dryer. Kind of looks like a catalytic converter from a car. Popped off housing cover by putting a large screw driver behind it and gently prying forward. The top came loose from the dryer and I then lifted it up off the two tabs holding it at the bottom. I then unscrewed the one screw holding the element to the bottom of housing cover. I slid the element out, inserted the new element, put the screw back in place and then put the housing unit back in place over the two tabs. I replugged all of the wires into the housing unit, replaced the back cover on the dryer and plugged the dryer into the wall receptacle. I turned the dryer on and it heated up right away. I have since dried several loads and it is working perfectly. By the way, I am a 65 year old housewife. If I can do it, anyone can.
Mary McCarthy
Jacksonville, FL

According to previously submitted instructions. toughest task was replacing the tiny screw at the bottom of the heating element housing. Felt good to plug it in, start it up and voila, heat. thank you for the part.