1093B1A Roper Wall Oven - Instructions

I'm so proud of myself. This Harry Homeowner is not too savvy, but this repair was easy. I watched a video on YouTube and followed along. The part was the least expensive though PS $36 delivered vs $45 to pick up . First disconnect the power. The nut driver was used to pull off the back panel and expose the heating unit. There was one hard to reach nut underneath holding on the heating coil. This I was able to get with a small wrench. Once removed, I slid out the broken part and replaced with the new part. I then tightened up that hard to reach nut first - make sure you do it tight or it would rattle. Next I put the back Panel on and reconnected the tube in the back which blows the air outside. It started right up and produced heat. I was a little concerned at first as I could "smell the heat" It must have just been some material on the coil - first time running it had to burn off. The odor was gone in 5 minutes. I could do it again in half the time if needed. Don't buy a new dryer or pay someone to fix. If I can do it so can you.

I'm good with tools so it was like 1 2 3 done,and it works like new. mike

installed new element within 15min... no need to pay the man .. will DIY again using this parts service...

The biggest problem was getting the back of my dryer off. After that, the heating element was relatively easy. I followed the steps from this site. First I removed the two screws holding the heating cannister in place and disconnected the two wires connected to the actual element. The Element slid right out and I replaced it with the new one that came (delivered in two days after I ordered it). Then I just redid everything in reverse to get the back back on to the dryer, plugged it in and got heat right away!

I would not consider myself a do it yourselfer as I have done appliance service since 1970 but now work as an instrumentation technician.

Took off the back panel, and with a little prying got the heating element case off (it's on the right of my LE5800XK). Replaced the heating element, put everything back, and voila, works better than before.

Unplugged dryer. Removed back panel from dryer. Using needlenose pliers, disconnected wires going into heating element housing cover. They basically just unplug. You have to wiggle them a little with the pliers to get them unplugged. The housing cover is the large metal piece on the right side of the dryer. Kind of looks like a catalytic converter from a car. Popped off housing cover by putting a large screw driver behind it and gently prying forward. The top came loose from the dryer and I then lifted it up off the two tabs holding it at the bottom. I then unscrewed the one screw holding the element to the bottom of housing cover. I slid the element out, inserted the new element, put the screw back in place and then put the housing unit back in place over the two tabs. I replugged all of the wires into the housing unit, replaced the back cover on the dryer and plugged the dryer into the wall receptacle. I turned the dryer on and it heated up right away. I have since dried several loads and it is working perfectly. By the way, I am a 65 year old housewife. If I can do it, anyone can.
Mary McCarthy
Jacksonville, FL

According to previously submitted instructions. toughest task was replacing the tiny screw at the bottom of the heating element housing. Felt good to plug it in, start it up and voila, heat. thank you for the part.

The search to find the elements, for the chamber,was about 3 hours on the internet. The chamber is a walk in design. Made to do trermal shock testing from ( 0 to 50 C) degrees on racks of electronics. Finding out that PartsSelect had the parts was great.
I remove two circuit of heat 10KW ( 2 heaters) & a 30KW (6 heaters) & Installed the 8 new heater.
The ramp up temperature is quicker & more percise.
Thak you for your help finding the parts.
It was a pleasure to work with you.

Pat McGill

First of all the instructions with the part were not very plain to understand so I returned to the web site and read some of the other custormers instructions and was able to figure out how to replace the part. Just had to unscrew the back panel and remove the screws from the heating element housing and then I took the screws out of the lint compartment so I could remove the whole housing to remove the screw that held the heating element to the housing and was easy to cut the eletric wire and conect the new wires and twist the new wire cap on and put everything back together. I was so glad that when I turned the dryer back on I had heat. I am 57 year old women and If I can figure of how to fix my ole dryer than I think anyone can. When I can I will order the part for a new timer. And I hope that my dryer will last another 10 years.

I read all the other stories and thought this would be a piece of cake. No one mentioned that you had to remove a small piece a metal holding the element casing from underneath the top of the dryer. Very hard to reach that screw. Then no one mentioned that the element casing had to be pulled out of the hole at the back of the dryer before you could remove the element. If i had known these things ahead of time, it would have been a simple project. After all is done, the element was not the problem. Now i think i need a thermostat. lol!!!!!

First, I tilted the dryer forward and leaned it carefully against the wall to gain access to the back cover. Used a nut driver to remove 5 screws holding the back cover. Tested the heating element using a multi-meter and it showed an open circuit. I tested the thermostat and a few other switches and they were all ok, so I knew for sure it was the heating element only. The part arrived in 2 days which was great, cause with 3 kids, dirty clothes pile up fast. I pulled several set of wires for the thermostat, switches etc. marking the wires to make sure I put them back correctly. I loosened the heating element housing by removing one screw at the top (with a clip attached) and one at the bottom. I pulled the housing out, then pulled the element out of it's cover and slid the new one in back in it's place. Screwed the cover back in, put the wires back into place and replaced the back cover. I made a few rookie mistakes during the process, but we won't discuss those. Anyway, bottom line is...the dryer worked perfectly...laundry time.

Checked fuses, breakers, etc. with multimeter to make sure nothing else was broken, then removed the heat element and - voila - it had snapped in the middle (should've done this first!). Searched the Web for the best price; 30-45 minutes removal, diagnosis, etc. 15 min to fix it

I followed the instructions provided by another user... worked like a champ!

Jacquie

Remove screws at lint filter, open top of dryer. Remove hex screw holding top of element casing. Slide dryer away from wall, remove 5 hex heads from rear panel, exposing element casing. Remove two screws holding sensors, and move aside. Lift dryer casing slightly and pull towards you to disengage from rear panel. Turn over and remove srew holding element to casing at bottom. Slide element out, and unplug two wires, noting position of each wire. Reverse procedure to reinstall element. Dryer works better than it has for years !