Models > 1093B1A

1093B1A Roper Wall Oven - Overview

Sections of the 1093B1A

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Heating Element Connection Wire Kit – Part Number: 279457
Heating Element Connection Wire Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS334206
Manufacturer #: 279457
This kit is used for electric clothes dryers, and it comes with a yellow wire nut.
$14.10
  In Stock
Heating Element – Part Number: WP4391960
Heating Element
PartSelect #: PS11742505
Manufacturer #: WP4391960
This element carries 5200W and 240V. Note: This element no longer includes two terminals and two adapter leads. They must be ordered separately.
$67.58
  In Stock
Bearing and Seal Kit – Part Number: 279264
Bearing and Seal Kit
★★★★★
★★★★★
(1)
PartSelect #: PS334171
Manufacturer #: 279264
This front bearing and seal kit comes with the adhesive.
$72.85
  In Stock
Hex Nut – Part Number: WP112432
Hex Nut
PartSelect #: PS11738304
Manufacturer #: WP112432
10-32 hex - Sold Individually - Appliance originally takes 3 of this item.
$10.25
  In Stock
HARNS-WIRE – Part Number: 279524
HARNS-WIRE
PartSelect #: PS334219
Manufacturer #: 279524
  No Longer Available
Raceway-Inner Capillary – Part Number: 323619
Raceway-Inner Capillary
PartSelect #: PS598452
Manufacturer #: 323619
  No Longer Available
Seal-Sides (4 Req) – Part Number: 315945
Seal-Sides (4 Req)
PartSelect #: PS598454
Manufacturer #: 315945
  No Longer Available
Support-Hinge (4 Req) – Part Number: 323446
Support-Hinge (4 Req)
PartSelect #: PS598456
Manufacturer #: 323446
  No Longer Available
G.M. Hex Nut 10-32 – Part Number: 97816
G.M. Hex Nut 10-32
PartSelect #: PS598475
Manufacturer #: 97816
  No Longer Available
Spacer-Side Trim (2 Req) – Part Number: 302862
Spacer-Side Trim (2 Req)
PartSelect #: PS598602
Manufacturer #: 302862
  No Longer Available
Oven Bottom w/Baffle – Part Number: 319446
Oven Bottom w/Baffle
PartSelect #: PS598606
Manufacturer #: 319446
  No Longer Available
Cover Plate – Part Number: 323766
Cover Plate
PartSelect #: PS598607
Manufacturer #: 323766
  No Longer Available

Questions And Answers for 1093B1A

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Common Symptoms of the 1093B1A

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Not Heating
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Dryer quit heating. Suspected heating element was open
Unplugged the 220 volt source. Disconnected the vent line from the back of the drier. Removed the six screws holding the back panel with a 1/4 inch nut driver. Tipped the drier up at a 45 degree angle against the wall to give better access to the inside. Removed the screws holding the two thermostats to the side of the heater box and laid them aside. Disconnected the two red power lines to the heater element. Removed the large screw at the top of the heater box and removed the flexible bracket holding the heater box, then lifted the heater box up and away from the drier. Removed the one screw holding the heater element inside the heater box and pulled out the old heating element. The old element was open as found using an ohmeter on the two main terminals. Threw away the old element. Removed the new heating element from the box and slid it into the heater box making sure to align the terminal bracket with the hole in the heater box for the reinstallation of the mounting screw. Tightened this screw. Remounted the heater box to the two mounting slots and reinstalled the flexible mounting bracket to the top of the heater box and installed and tightened the large screw holding this bracket. Cut off and removed the old electrical push-on terminals from the two red power wires for the heater element. These were discolored and oxidated from the conducted heat over the years of operation. Using the supplied short red leads with push-on terminals already installed, I wire tied these new leads to the existing red power leads and pushed them onto the heater element terminals. Rechecked the soundness of the twisted wire connections to make sure they were tight. Replaced the back panel and reinstalled the six 1/4" screws with the 1/4' nut driever. Reinstalled the driver vent line and tightened its holding ring. Slid the drier back into position on the floor. Checked the level and readjusted the leveling legs for a steady floor stance. Reinstalled the 220 volt power connecter and set the controlls for a drying cycle. Let the drier run for aproximately 1 minute and then checked the air temperature inside the drier. IT WAS NOW PRODUCING HOT AIR. Project completed successfully and I was now a HERO in my wifes eyes. Absolutely no technical problems encountered. Just remember, unplug the drier before starting ANY repairs. To forget this COULD RUIN YOUR DAY.
Parts Used:
Heating Element
  • Bill from Morristown, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
289 of 322 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer was not heating
This is the second heating element I have replaced in this dryer which I bought new in 1977. That's right it is 32 years old and still works great!

The replacement process is simple:
One: pull the dryer away from the wall so that you have room to work in the back.
Two: Disconnect the dryer vent hose from the back of the dryer.
Three: Remove the five - 5/16" hex head sheet metal screws that hold the back cover in place and set the cover to the side.
Four: Go to the front of the dryer and remove the lint filter and the two slot head screws that hold the lint filter opening to the internal frame.
Five: Pop the top of the dryer open and remove the one 5/16" hex head screw that holds the top of the heating element strap to the frame.
Six: Go to the back of the dryer and remove the two leads from the thermostat that is mounted to the heating element casing. CAUTION: Be careful to note the position of the wires and be certain that you reattach the correct wire to the correct lead.
Seven: Lift the heating element case up about 1/2" to disengage the hooks at the bottom that hold it in place.Then pull the bottom of the heating toward you slightly while sliding it down. This will allow you to remove the heating element and casing.
Eight: Remove the heating element from the casing and insert the replacement heating element.

Reverse the above process to reassemble.
This entire process only takes about 20 minutes.

An additional note: Be certain that you pay careful attention to the positioning of the strap that holds the top of the heating element case to the dryer frame. If you install it incorrectly, the heating element case can fall away from the back of the drum assembly.
Parts Used:
Heating Element
  • Frank from Fort Collins, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
99 of 108 people found this instruction helpful.
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Loads in the dryer took a very long time to dry often needing two full cycles to completely dry.
First, I moved the dryer out where it would be easily accessable. I then removed the back of the dryer using a nut driver. Once this was complete, I removed the cover holding the heating element. I disconnected the two wires and puled the old element out. I replaced it with the new heating element and reconnected the two wires. I then replace the back cover and moved the dryer back in place. The dryer works and heats much better now. Thankyou
Parts Used:
Heating Element
  • Rod from Galveston, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
39 of 55 people found this instruction helpful.
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