10689589705 Kenmore Ice Maker - Instructions

Pretty much followed the how to video. Biggest pain was removing the screws to the bracket that houses the motor.

Pulled out the Fridge. Removed the plug. Removed the back panel screws with nut driver. Vacuumed the coils & fan area. Disconnected the fan cable. Used a socket and thumb ratchet to remove the 3 mounting screws from its sheet metal bracket. Slid the old fan assembly out. Assembled the new Fan blade onto the new motor shaft and attached the adapter cable to the fan connector. Slid the assembly into place and reattached with 3 screws using socket and thumb ratchet. Connected adapter cable to fridge harness and plugged in the power cord to test the fan. With it working Quietly and knowing the the problem was solved, the back panel was reattached.

Instructions were really clear and easy to follow. Hardest part of the job was moving the refrigerator away from wall after it was filled with holiday groceries.

This repair was super easy. there are only 5 screws to remove to get at the defective switch. 3 in the housing where the light bulbs are and 2 in the front trim piece where the cooling adjustment dials are. I never did unplug the fridge ,but probably should have although nothing bad happened. I removed all 5 screws using a 1/4" socket ( a nutdriver would work well also). there is also a small dia rod that comes down from the coolness adj. wheel that when you re-assemble goes though the middle of the wheel. The switch has only 2 wires that clip on with the push on flat type connectors. Very simple. I removed the wires and then the switch can be removed( it is only held in by 2 squeezable side clips). I put the new switch in and connected the wires , checked to see that the lights went on and off. which they did. then just put the screws back in.....done. also I would like to say that when I ordered my switch it came super fast. I ordered it online at 11:00am on a tuesday and it was on my doorstep in wisconsin by 10:00 am the next day...Thanks

I surfed partselect and read that a reader had a similar problem with a rattling fan. I then removed the back panel, after I had unplugged the unit, and was able to feel the slop in the fan shaft. I then watched the video of how to replace the fan and ordered the part soon after. The part arrived 3 days later! Easy to do. I was finished in 12 minutes and the fridge runs silently. The part of the job that took the longest was vaccuming the undercarriage. There was alot of dust! Couldn't have helped the efficiency on the fridge. Keep it clean.

Removed and replaced the condenser motor fan kit. This was a very easy tear down and replacement of a bad component. Removed 4 screws to remove the bracket holding the fan motor kit pulled it out and replaced with the new unit (4 screws supplied) plgged in adapter cord (supplied) and re-installed took about 10 minutes.

Wires in cutter grid were broken and wouldn't freeze/cut ice. Replaced with the new ice cutter grid that came completely assembled. Put it in with a screwdriver in less than 10 minutes. Ice cubes ready in 45 minutes. Repair guy told me it would be $455 for him to repair it. With shipping, mine was $133 and 10 minutes of my time. Well worth doing it myself.

It was easy to remove the old grid and replace it with a new one.

I determined it was the cutter grid because there was a broken wire on the existing one. They have to heat up and cut the ice. I ordered it and the part was at my house in 1 day. The cutter grid part was easy to install. The ice maker is working great now.

Bought new wire, strung it end to end and fastened it at each end.

Remove pump and hoses from bad bucket, removed bucket and install new bucket . To remove pump, remove screw holding pump and turn pump 1/4 turn. Be careful Putting new bucket back, can break hose if not careful. Good luck

The thumbscrews that hold the cutter grid can only be removed by using a needle nose pliers , you cannot turn them by hand. The electrical connections for the grid and level sensor can be removed by pressing the front side of the connector while pulling down. Re-installing the cutter grid is in reverse to the removal, just follow the instructions. But be aware that all wiring remains outside the grid perimeter when reconnecting. One other thing: While you are at it, remove the lower outside panel to expose the evaporator coils which need to be vacuumed. Replacing these parts is tricky. I had to remove the door then loosely install the upper retainer bracket for the lower panel so I could slide the upper edge into that bracket before installing the lower screws. I used an ice pick to line up the holes while using a blade screwdriver to push the panel in its place to install the retaining screws. It took me about a half hour after I figured out what to do.

as told per compter

I replaced the thermometer first and it started working again. I was convinced that the reason that it continued to break every 6mos was because no one had ever replaced the fan. The difficult part was getting to it. After trying to get in from the front and from the back I finally figured out that I had to take the bottom off and tilt it on its side. I was then able to get out the pin in the condenser and move it to the side. I could then reach the screws that held in the fan. I then decided to put the fan on the motor and when I was tapping it on with a hammer the back cracked. I attempted to fix it by taking apart the old motor and salvaging the parts but that didn't work. I had to buy another $85 part and take the whole thing apart again. It was easier the second time because I knew which screws and pins I had to remove and how to get to them. I very, very carefully tapped the fan onto the motor and now it is working fine. I will let you know if it is still working at Easter. If it is I will have done a better job than the 7or 8 repairmen who have fixed it in the past

Trouble shooting discovered no water going to into the unit, decided to replace water valve which fixed the problem.