10689583702 Kenmore Ice Maker - Instructions

Unplugged the fridge first then took the bottom panel off with a 1/4 inch nut driver. Disconnected the wiring & used my ratchet to reach the 3 screws that held the motor. Took me longer to clean the bottom of the fridge then the installation.

stopped the fan and noise stopped ordered fan motor and fan with interface cable. Using 1/4 inch nut driver to remove screws from motor bracket installed new motor and runs like new.

I suggest following video supplied with order confirmation perfect fit

Removed and replaced sensor

Remove the cardboard back cover and the vertical metal strip, all the screws are the same on the back. Remove the front bottom cover, those screws are all the same but longer. The tubing is bad because they tucked it in on the side and it rubbed and wore a hole in it. Remove the tubing nut. You may notice that there is an insert in the tubing, but the new tubing has no insert because it is thicker walled and does not the insert because it is stronger. The nut and compression ring are one piece. Open the front door and pull the tube out of the metal plate to the left, and cut the tube off at the end to remove the metal ring, and to make it easier to pull it out. Pull the tube out from the back, but first carefully remove the sticky gray putty, and put it aside. You might also bend the copper line to the right a little if it is putting pressure on the tube at the top of the unit. Now pull the tubing out, and use it to make the new tube the proper length, You might also want to first tape the new tube to the old tube to fish it through. I did not. It was tricky fishing the tube in from the back of the unit to the resevoir. If you do it my way, then aim it to the right. I got it on the second try and felt lucky. Once you get the tube in there, put the metal ring back on the new tube, and press it into the metal plate to the right. You can feel the groove and hole in the metal plate. I think the metal ring goes under the plate, but honestly I don't think you need the ring on the new tube because it has a thicker wall and is stiffer, so it won't pop out. Make sure you put the putty back in once you have completely installed the tubing. I think this is important to keep the tubing from sweating and to help keep the ice bin cold, like insulation. Do not put the tubing back along the left side of the unit, or you will be replacing it again, but maybe not with the thicker walled tubing. When you are all done, check to make sure your sump pump works by pouring water into the ice tub, if it is plugged in and you do not hear the pump, or the water backs up, then your pump may be bad. I also pulled a piece of white plastic out of the clear tubing just above the pump and never did find where that came from, but it would have been from the ice bin. I then ran a cleaning cycle and the instructions say if there was water still in the resevoir, then do another cleaning. My resevoir was full, so I did another cleaning. IF YOUR RESEVOIR IS FULL, THEN YOU NEED A NEW UPPER PUMP! Mine is on order. Mine was full after both cleanings, and after trying to make ice, I realized what the problem was. It could be that it is very clogged, but they don't appear to be serviceable, and I never heard it try to run. I did hear the lower pump, compressor, and fan all run previously, so I hope that when the new pump is installed, the unit is not low on refrigerant or anything like that. Fingers crossed, and good luck.

Unplugged the unit. Removed 2 screws to remove front cover to access the cutter grid.removed 2 screws to the cutter grid, unsnapped power connector and removed broken grid. Slid new grid in place, reconnected power connector, replaced screws, plugged in ice maker and slid back in place. Very easy!!!

Just install the new valve by reversing the process of removing the old valve. Only possible nance is with the quick release hose fittings - the collar is pushed down to release the hose. Also, be sure to FULLY reinsert the hose in the new valve. Best to twist the hose a bit when inserting so it goes through the o-ring inside the valve. If not fully inserted, it will leak.

I replaced the two pumps, since both were the same design...figuring if one went bad then the other would soon go bad...and then I also replace the water level sensor. All had quick connect plugs. The time is just taking apart the various pieces, cleaning, installing the new pumps and sensor, then reassembling.

Figured out You have to pop off the cocer than remove the 1/4 hex head screws only not the philips ones

Simple to replace. Next fall I will be sure to drain the outdoor icemake and shut it down for the winter.

Received replacement valve ~ 3 days, easily replaced in less than 15min, works great

After turning off water to icemaker, defective control removed (two screws) and new unit installed.Worked perfectly.I was totally amazed when I ordered the part thursday afternoon and it arrived fridaY morning.Total time out of operation less than 24 hours.Wonderful results.

Had repair man out to make repair his price for part $219.00 and $271.00 labor as he was looking up his price I got on line and found part here for $121.00 thought it might take me 1 hour to fix only 6- 1/4" nuts 2 screws and less than 30 min I had Ice maker working. Bottom line my total cost $75.00 repar man $121.00 part $196.00 that was a savings of $294.00

I determined it was the cutter grid because there was a broken wire on the existing one. They have to heat up and cut the ice. I ordered it and the part was at my house in 1 day. The cutter grid part was easy to install. The ice maker is working great now.

Wires in cutter grid were broken and wouldn't freeze/cut ice. Replaced with the new ice cutter grid that came completely assembled. Put it in with a screwdriver in less than 10 minutes. Ice cubes ready in 45 minutes. Repair guy told me it would be $455 for him to repair it. With shipping, mine was $133 and 10 minutes of my time. Well worth doing it myself.