1067602202 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

My fridge is a little different from the video model. The Controls in the fridge are located on an "arm" which swings down when the two screws are removed from the sides. It was not necessary to remove a front plate or knobs. However, I found when I got in to it that the old timer was not held by screws, but by plstic posts which had these "speed nuts" on them. This is a little metal plate which fits over the plastic post and bends to lock it in place. When you try to remove it, it acts like a barb, holding the little sucker on. I ended up bending the ends of those little suckers up tight against the post and twisting and pulling with needle-nose pliers. I broke one post like others before me commented, but one stayed intact. The only break at the top, so there ie still post left to hold the new timer. Once it was off, I was able to replace easily. The directions for choosing the right prong were a little confusing, but follow your gut and go with the wire colors. My schematic found in the bottom of the fridge did not look like any of the drawings, but I could match the wire colors. I also asked "Just Ask" for help, to make sure. My gut instinct was right. My fridge is now working again beautifully. If a housewife with no appliance repair knowledge can do it, so can you. I fixed my dryer with PartSelect too!I will never call another repair man until I have checked this site to see if I can do it myself. Bet I have saved $600 so far at least!

I did the repair just as your video showed me. It worked out great.

Emptied the freezer. Removed the back panel. (six screws)Removed the fan cover.(4 screws) Unplugged the power. Unplugged three wires from the motor. (hot-neutral-ground)Removed the fan. (2 screws) Installed the new fan and centered for clearance. Reversed the prior instructions.

Took the old fan out and put the new fan in.

I just simply eliminated the ice buildup with hot water and a knife. But I still have the Defrost Timer Kit for future use.

First of all the part was not located in the section of the refrigerator that was shown in the video. I wasted a lot of time taking that section apart only to find that the part wasn't there. After some investigation I finally located the defective part. It was behind a piece of sheet metal that had to be bent out of the way to unscrew the part. If I hadn't bent it out of the way, it would have been a major disassembly to remove the sheet metal. Once removed, the installation of the new part was fairly simple. The only confusing thing about the installation was determinig which of the prongs on the part that the internal wire to the new part was to be attached. There were 3 options given and the instructions were not very clear as to which one I should use. Apparently I guessed correctly because the refrigerator seems to be functioning perfectly since the repair.

One day the ice cream in the freezer seemed mushy, but the ice was still frozen. There was not water in the ice bin. However, the problem resolved itself. This suggested that the defrost timer had become stuck for an extended time, but then continued to run. The fact that the freezer went back to frozen, implies that all the components of the cooling loop (compressor, condenser & fan, evaporator & fan) were fine. It was possible that the problem was caused by a bad defrost (?evaporator?) thermostat but everything I saw on line suggested that the defrost timer is the culprit about 40 - 50% of the time. Anyway, I followed the instructions in the on-line video at this site for replacing the defrost timer and it was easy. It would have only taken 15 minutes, but I spent a while reading the defrost timer instructions and hunting down a schematic for my refrigerator, to determine which pin the loose wire should go on.

Removed the broken clip and slid on the new one. Replaced bar across shelf.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

Could not believe it was possible to find the part (PS395649 Door Shelf End Cap) on our 25 year old fridge. PartSelect came thru like a Pro. Part arrived in 2 days and went in place immediately. Excellent Excellent Excellent PartSelect! Great support to a worried home-owner.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

I just followed the enclosed instructions