10672003017 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I contacted partselct to see if I could get the end caps with new hinges to correct the problem. My customer service contact was very professional and a huge help in helping me select the correct parts. When the parts arrived I was amazed they were genuine whirlpool parts, fit perfectly, and were easy to install. I have other parts to order and will use partselct again. I appreciate everything they did for me to solve this problem.

It was easy to replace the start and run capacitors. But did not fix my problem, also replaced the evaporator fan still not fixed. Pulled refrigerator out of RV and ordered a new one.

Remove rail and removed broken black plastic spring mechanism with new one and then replace rail.

The part came the next day, very quick. The wrong size ended up in box we recieved. The part # we ordered was correct, just a mix up in the packaging process. I called and the customer service dept. had a new correct crisper pan delivered to my door two days later. Even with the mix up it was very fast and a good price compared to other sites. I would order again in the future.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

Removed old ice maker by removing 3 screws, unplugged wiring harness. Replaced with new ice maker, placed three screws back to secure the ice maker, plugged wire harness back, and product is working well at this time.

Top bottom then sides took about 15 min

Took out the bottom drawer, removed one hexhead nut on the unit, unplugged the unit, plugged in the replacement unit, screwed in the hexhead screw, replaced the drawer, that's it! Very user friendly.

Replaced the rail and slide baskets. Also readjusted the basket. This was extremely easy and saved me close to $500

This is a bottom freezer refrigerator. Had to remove the freezer door and bottom shelve to make access to the ice maker possible.. Removed the old ice maker using a 1/4" nutdriver to loosen, but not remove, the top 2 screws. Removed the bottom support screw completely.. Detached the wiring harness from the freezer connector and lifted the ice maker up and out of the freezer. Installed the replacement ice maker in reverse order, slipping it over the loosened top screws. Tightened them, making sure the usit was level, then inserted and tightened the bottom support screw . Plugged the wiring harness into the freezer connector.. Unit produced ice within 3 hrs. .

1. Turn your water OFF and pull the refrigerator out from the wall so you can access the back.
2. Use pliers to remove tubing clamp.
3. Remove old water fill tube.
4. I used a putty knife to gently pry out the old fill tube from the back of the refrigerator. Once the fill tube pulls out about 1/4 to 1/2", then you can gently pull the remainder of the tube out by hand. Once I removed my "old" fill tube, that is when I saw the "ice plug" that was causing pressure in the water supply line and caused my water line to pop off.
5. Install new fill tube. The end that goes in first needs to go through a small "ring" inside the freezer (this "ring" is not encountered until the fill tube only has about one more inch to be inserted into the back of the refigerator. I could barely see this "ring" if I opened the freezer drawer and stuck my head in as far as I could. I had to gently rotate the new fill tube until it cleared the "ring". You will feel some resistance until it lines up properly.
6. Snugly push in the part that stays on the outside of the refrigerator until it looks like it is sealed.
7. Gently push up the water fill tube where it belongs in the new part and replace the tubing clamp.
8. Turn your water on and make sure there are no leaks (I left my refrigerator out for about an hour).
9. Push your refrigerator back in place.

Took out the drawer and upper rack out of freezer removed back wall from freezer took out fan motor housing and replaced motor and thermostat. Works like new now.

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.

Simply cut the water tube on both sides of connector and push in the new one.

After the original center crisper drawer slide rail broke and and second also looking in deep into your parts catalog I discovered that the refrigerator never came with a crisper frame brace from the store or factory.
Thanks to you , I no longer have the use of the center rail breaking off for now everything is made out of cheaply make plastic by whirlpool.