10651783416 Admiral Refrigerator - Instructions

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

I used the computer to enter the make and model of the refrigerator with the icemaker unit. We looked at the diagram to identify the name of the part and then ordered it. It was sent out the next day! We received it and installed it and it works perfect!

This is an easy fix. The hardest part was just determining which part to replace. But the Q&A's for the ice maker from this site steered me right. And their video on how to install was easy to follow. The only difference I found was my Whirlpool had only 2 electrical connectors instead of the 3 in the video. I finished the job in about 15 minutes so everything in my freezer stayed solidly frozen.

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Simple to replace. 6 screws out. Unplug connections... Plug back in, replace screws.

Unfortunately still not making ice. Will try fill valve replacement.

First turn off the ice maker. Then there's four screws in the very back you remove pull out the cover. There's hex head 516 bolts maybe quarter inch that hold in the ice maker unplug the ice maker reverse process

Did my homework.
Consulted Utube
Bought the part
Installed

The repair went great, however, I had someone to put the part in for me.

I thought I ordered a new drawer to replace the one that was missing. Apparently I only ordered the plastic part of the drawer, not the drawer ASSEMBLY, which required me to also order 2 plastic wheels, 2 wheel axels and a handle trim piece. The sum of all the pieces needed to replace my drawer assembly was going to be $250. That's ridiculous. SO I decided to send the plastic drawer back -- which cost me $70 in shipping. I will not be purchasing anything from PartSelect again.

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.

I changed the bulb but it still didn’t work. I ordered a bulb holder and replaced it and it works properly now. It was an easy repair, remove the bulb, gently pry the bulb holder out with a screwdriver and snap the new one in.

It was useful that under the description of the part in the catalog, it showed that this part was often used to repair this issue. The service was great and the delivery was fast.

Ordered the part. It came a day later. Unpacked it and put it in the door.

Followed the video instructions.

Unpack, wash in warm soapy water, slide into pkace

After pulling the fridge out and removing the dust cover over the lower portion in back of the fridge, I could see water dripping from the inlet valve between the water main to the icemaker and the water dispenser in the door.
1. Unplug the fridge
2. Place a towel under the fridge to absorb any over flow
3. Turn off the water supply to the fridge - this is usually at a tap valve on the cold water line. trace the line from the back of the fridge to find the connection point. In the unlikely event there is not valve at the tap valve or if it is inaccessible, turn off the main water supply. If you have to turn off the main supply turn on a faucet somewhere in the house to bleed the pressure from the line.
4. If the valve is tied to the frame or line , undo the tie or cut the zip tie (in my case)
5. Unplug each electric connector from the old valve to the new one.
6. The water connections are all quick connect so release the intake line by pressing down on the white ring and removing the tube. Press the tube into the new valve.
7. Repeat with each line going to the refrigerator making sure to plug each tube into the same outlet you pulled it from
8. In each case to minimize water coming out of the tube, hold your finger over the end while transferring to the new valve.
9. Verify that all tubing ends are FULLY pressed to the valve
10. Turn the water back on slowly and check for leaks. if some are seen turn water back off and repeat steps 6 thru 9.
11. Plug fridge in
12. Run water from the door faucet to bleed any air out
13. Clean up any spillage
14. Replace dust cover (if present) and replace refrigerator in place
Piece of cake