10651779510 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Remove the top two drawers, with a small screwdriver pop out module, unplug, plug in new module, press back into place, put drawers back, DONE! 5 minutes easy peasy ??

Took lower back board off, took part off to expose it so I could see where it was leaking, got part number, ordered it.
Shut off water to frig at wall shut off, unhooked both hoses and plug, hooked new part up, turned water back on. Watched couple days to make sure it wasn't leaking. Vacuumed out back good, which I was amazed didn't really need it, hooked part back in place, replaced back with screws.

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

At first ordered the wrong part. Using the website was difficult to find the correct part, but once I called, it was pretty easy to find the part needed. Part showed up and install was only a few minutes. No more leaking!

Thanks for the help PartSelect!

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

I ussed meter to check the voltage levels and they were fine. I refrence a you video on the refrigerator and foud out that the lights are setup in series like christmas tree lights. If the freezer light is out it will affect the rest of the lights in the refrigerator. I removed the freezer light module and test the light by swapping it with a know working light. the freezer light was the culprit that took the lights out in the side panels and the left side of the refrigerator section. I replaced the freezer light and all the lights now work without issue.

One light and they all go out. So i used one fo lights

After pulling the fridge out and removing the dust cover over the lower portion in back of the fridge, I could see water dripping from the inlet valve between the water main to the icemaker and the water dispenser in the door.
1. Unplug the fridge
2. Place a towel under the fridge to absorb any over flow
3. Turn off the water supply to the fridge - this is usually at a tap valve on the cold water line. trace the line from the back of the fridge to find the connection point. In the unlikely event there is not valve at the tap valve or if it is inaccessible, turn off the main water supply. If you have to turn off the main supply turn on a faucet somewhere in the house to bleed the pressure from the line.
4. If the valve is tied to the frame or line , undo the tie or cut the zip tie (in my case)
5. Unplug each electric connector from the old valve to the new one.
6. The water connections are all quick connect so release the intake line by pressing down on the white ring and removing the tube. Press the tube into the new valve.
7. Repeat with each line going to the refrigerator making sure to plug each tube into the same outlet you pulled it from
8. In each case to minimize water coming out of the tube, hold your finger over the end while transferring to the new valve.
9. Verify that all tubing ends are FULLY pressed to the valve
10. Turn the water back on slowly and check for leaks. if some are seen turn water back off and repeat steps 6 thru 9.
11. Plug fridge in
12. Run water from the door faucet to bleed any air out
13. Clean up any spillage
14. Replace dust cover (if present) and replace refrigerator in place
Piece of cake

Got resistance values from partselect. Coil was not in range. I remove rear cardboard cover,shut off water. Valve located on right side rear. Hoses are quick release. Unplug wire harnesses.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

6 screws removed and part replaced

The new bin slid right into the required slot

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Remove the ice bucket and check that the auger that turns in the ice bucket is free to turn. Cover the open freezer with cardboard or whatever to retain most of the freezer temperature. Remove the holder that supports the top of the motor shaft. Check the splines on the upper part of the motor shaft and also check the seal under the holder. Open the access the door to the motor, remove wiring connector and unbolt the motor. Check the lower splines on motor shaft for condition, clean the shaft and apply new grease to the splines. Before installing, connect the wiring to the new motor, push the door switch in, press the ice dispenser arm outside the door to make sure the motor runs. If all ok, check the motor shaft for fit in the new motor. Be careful not to install the motor shaft too deep in the motor splines, otherwise there may not be enough spline showing on the top end to engage the auger. Bolt the motor in place, close access door and install the holder and ice bucket and make sure everything works. If there is not enough spline showing thru the holder to engage the auger, take pliers and pull the shaft up a bit. This seems to be a hit or miss fit on the shaft but you can adjust the height of the shaft without taking every thing apart again. That's all, not difficult at all. But do check parts and pieces for anything else you might need, parts wise, before ordering the motor by itself like I did. Shipping is high, so try to order any associated parts needed when you order the motor. By the way, This site are great to work with!