10651189110 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Simply removed the phillips head screw and put the bushing and washer and coupling back in place and replaced the screw. Hardest part was breaking the screw loose to begin with. After that it was a snap. Less than 15 mintues and i was crushing ice again. Ordered two of the couplings so I have a spare when this one snaps. I think this is a re-curring problem for this model.

I took off the broken tube and attempted to order a new one with the confusing we sight at parts.com- after 3 attempts I finally got the right part with help from the operator at parts . Com( nice and helpful) but had to ship wrong parts ( the 2 wrong ones) back. The parts were of good quality and we're not hard to put on

Just follow youtube examples. Work in freezer. Troubles was I didn't fix the problem. Experts say thermostat is the best one to replace (53%). Anyway they are not always right.

with vidio

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

I just popped out the old switch with a flat head screwdriver. Removed the connections and then installed new switch by reversing steps. Popped in back in and the light went on.

Remove the ice bucket and check that the auger that turns in the ice bucket is free to turn. Cover the open freezer with cardboard or whatever to retain most of the freezer temperature. Remove the holder that supports the top of the motor shaft. Check the splines on the upper part of the motor shaft and also check the seal under the holder. Open the access the door to the motor, remove wiring connector and unbolt the motor. Check the lower splines on motor shaft for condition, clean the shaft and apply new grease to the splines. Before installing, connect the wiring to the new motor, push the door switch in, press the ice dispenser arm outside the door to make sure the motor runs. If all ok, check the motor shaft for fit in the new motor. Be careful not to install the motor shaft too deep in the motor splines, otherwise there may not be enough spline showing on the top end to engage the auger. Bolt the motor in place, close access door and install the holder and ice bucket and make sure everything works. If there is not enough spline showing thru the holder to engage the auger, take pliers and pull the shaft up a bit. This seems to be a hit or miss fit on the shaft but you can adjust the height of the shaft without taking every thing apart again. That's all, not difficult at all. But do check parts and pieces for anything else you might need, parts wise, before ordering the motor by itself like I did. Shipping is high, so try to order any associated parts needed when you order the motor. By the way, This site are great to work with!

In the bottom of the refrigerator cabinet is a small drain that should allow any extra water to drip down to the bottom pan of the refrigerator where the compressor is. The compressor is warm and will evaporate the water quickly. If that drain gets clogged then the water will eventually spill out onto the floor. These parts are not necessary to fix the leaking water but when you open the cabinet to check around, you’ll find a lot of mold and fungus has grown on the Styrofoam because of the wet conditions. So I replaced the Styrofoam holders that secure the heat exchanger. This is easily done by removing the white plastic cover in the back of the refrigerator, and then wiggling out the two Styrofoam holders on the left and right. It’s a little easier if you have the new parts before you remove the old parts because they have to fit in just right, but it’s easily figured out. To clear the drain, it’s a little difficult because the tube makes a nearly right angle just below the drain hole. I was not able to clear the clog by pushing anything down the hole because it just hit the right angle turn. I found that I had to pull the refrigerator out, identify the tube by reaching in the back of the refrigerator toward the bottom, pull the tube straight, and then jam wire up through the tube to clear the clog. You can also buy a tube replacement but replacing the tube requires getting into the back of the refrigerator also, so both are about the same level of work.

Opening up the Evaporator Fan section was a quick and easy job. After opening, I checked and removed the fan and looked at the grommet. The grommet on the fan was tight and secure and I could no longer hear the noise. I closed the opening. Something I had done while checking the fan grommet must have solved the problem. I have not hear the noise again!

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

Removed 4 bottom screws. Removed module screws. Replaced module and motor with new parts (came assembled). Replaced module screws and installed the ice maker with the 4 bottom screws.

1) Turn off the power to the refrigerator 2) Remove the top shelf and ice maker door 3)Remove three hex screws holding the ice maker in place, 4) Unplug the electrical cables and remove the ice maker 5) Remove the plastic cover to the motor module 6) Remove three screws from the motor module and seperate from the housing 7) Remove two mounting screws for the motor module 8) Seperate the motor module from the ice tray 9) Remove and replace the plastic ice stripper and rake10) Reassemble in reverse order. Note: Be patient after re-installing the ice maker. It might take an hour or two before its cold enough to kick back on and make ice.

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!