10650043717 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Take it apart, replace with the new one, put it back together. So simple even a democrat girl could do it.

Replaced the Ice Bin Auger,I ordered from PartSelect,which had much thicker housing and fins than the original .You remove the clip from the end of the shaft and a nylon nut which is a left hand which is opposite threads from most nuts.Its a good idea to take a picture of how the blades and spacers are ,because if not put back in the same direction their will be no crushed ice.It now works better and quiter than when it was new.

Remove the screws and detach the cover. loose the spring and unscrew backwards the plastic nut to release the drum. Un ensemble the blades and release the drum and the deflector replace new parts and ensemble again all the parts.

(1) Ordered PS371704 from PartSelect! Best advice EVER! (2) Unplugged refrigerator (since the water solenoid on the back of the refrigerator is powered to switch ON the water, you NEVER have to turn off the water!) (3) Pull off the refrigerator's bottom grill. (4) With a small saucer under the fittings, unscrew the black and white tube fitting. There is only one nut to remove on the white tubing side. You'll need to undo the compression fitting on the black tubing and slide off the compression nut. You'll need to MAKE SURE you keep these nuts and replace onto the black and white tubing the SAME WAY you took them off. You'll NOT need to use nut drivers as finger tight is the key. Too hard and you'll ruin these plastic nuts. You should get only about 1/8 cup or less of water during this whole exercise. (5) Cut off the old, broken water nozzle. (4) Find a screw of the appropriate size to fit tightly 1/2 way inside the new tubing (this is to ensure your old and new tubing are connected to feed through the door). If screw is not tight within the tubing, wrap part of a plastic (thin) sack around this screw a couple of times and force into the tubing. You'll, of course, then need to use the hacksaw to cut the head off the screw as you'll be forcing the other half of the screw into the old cut tubing (6) Chase the dog out of the kitchen and cajole your wife (significant other) to push the newly joined tubes through the top of the dispenser, through the door and out the bottom as you will be gently PULLING on this old tubing from the bottom until the new tubing pops through the doors bottom. (7) Once this new tubing is out, you will separate the old tubing and, using the nuts in the proper sequence, connect this new tubing to the white tubing. (8) Plug the refrigerator back in and test flow the water. Check to ensure the plastic nuts have no leakage ... button up the bottom grill ... and enjoy the fresh water! PS> Don't forget to praise the wife (significant other) and give the dog a treat for staying out of your face!!

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Disassembled freezer icemaker rear panel and replaced defective part.

Pried out the old switch and installed the new switch.

Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.

Remove 4 self tap screws holding on front cover/bin handle. Remove 2 self tap screws holding drum cover. Remove 1 self tap screw at back of bin holding door actuating rod and spring, slide forward to disengage. Remove "E" clip and flat washer. Remove plastic nut {clockwise/left hand threads]and remove crusher parts [keep in order removed]. Slide new drum on shaft and reassemble crusher in reverse order. Install drum cover w/2 self tap screws. Install flat washer and "E" clip. Re install actuator rod and spring assy. Install front cover and test in refrigerator. The 2 self tap screws that hold drum cover are easier to remove with a 1/4' drive ratchet and 1/4" socket because of limited space behind actuator rod. This job is a snap to do. I'm sure it's at least $50.00 cheaper than a service call.

Had to push the light switch to get lamp to light up.
Removed power from refrig. and removed old light switch
and replaced with the one I got from Partselect. Turned power back on and was done.

Opening up the Evaporator Fan section was a quick and easy job. After opening, I checked and removed the fan and looked at the grommet. The grommet on the fan was tight and secure and I could no longer hear the noise. I closed the opening. Something I had done while checking the fan grommet must have solved the problem. I have not hear the noise again!

replaced the drum ---- however it would of been more helpful if directions came with the part on how to take off the old drum we had to look on line to see how to do that wants we got that done the rest was a piece of cake

installed new parts