10632883010 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Rather than pay a repairman an assessment fee, then the cost of the repair to the existing icemaker, I decided to replace the icemaker for a lot less. The Add On Icemaker kit came with installation instructions. The kit included the ice maker, as well as the hose and water feed control on the back. Originally, I was nervous about attempting to replace the icemaker. I watched a video on YouTube about replacing an icemaker and saw how easy it could be. Following the enclosed directions, and Wow!, it was extremely easy to remove and add the new icemaker. Don't pay to have someone else do it! This is a no-brainer.

We had a refrigerator that had no ice maker at all, but it had the wiring behind the freezer panel and the wiring for the solenoid valve at the bottom of the refrigerator. The installation went easy for me, but I do not think the average homeowner could handle it. There are always little variations from model to model so some of the diagrams were not quite the same as my unit. But all the necessary parts and hardware were there and the install went fine. its crabnking out perfect ice like crazy.

My husband tackled the job....but before this repair he had to replace ours at home so he had some experience at it....although...on this fridge he had to hook up the water line and all...but basically was not too hard...and the ordering of the part and delivery was excellent...

Followed recommendations from others but went with most likely by percentage = defrost timer kit. Did not solve issue. Then went with bi-metal thermostat and that did not fix the problem. Tested the thermostat as recommended on line and old part was bad, new part ok. Then I saw on line that I should have listened for fan operation. I checked and found the fan motor to be defective. Replaced the motor and refrigerator worked fine. Both the motor and bi-metal thermostat were required. Should have checked fan operation first.

I shut the unit off for about ten hours and when I turned it back on and set the temperatures for the freezer and refrigerator it has been working great.I will keep the part in case it happens again.

Installation went smooth - only three hex-head screws (one below unit and two above. After removing 3 screws, unit comes loose in your hand but is still connected by a plug leading 4 wires to a connector visible through a slot in back panel of freezer compartment. New unit goes in easily (making sure spout from pump that protrudes from back wall fits through opening on icemaker) but there's not a generous amout of wiring harness and the 'female' of the electrical connection is recessed and loose inside a cutout in the rear panel so you can't get a good grip on it nor can you feel if it plugs securely. I plugged new unit into connector and then secured it with the 3 screws, waited the 12 hours per instructions, but no ice. Removed unit and guessed that the plug had not seated fully (not plugged in.) I took a short piece of a wooden paint stirrer and put it on back edge of plug and tapped it into place so it seated fully. Immediately, the pump cycled and water came from the filler spout, so I surmised that it was now properly plugged in - it began making ice in a couple of hours and has operated perfectly ever since. Lesson learned is to make sure you get the electrical connector fully in place - mine did not 'snap' or 'click' into place and I wrongly assumed it was plugged in correctly.

Whirlpool refridgerator, parts were not exactly the same,but did fit. The electrical hook plug was perfect. Old ice maker had wear marks in channels. Installed new ice maker. Pump still didn't operate after letting ice box get down to normal temp. Replaced pump. Had to use hose permanentely attached to new pump. Removed old hose and clamped new hose at top and outside refrigerator with existing clamp. Let the freezer get back down to normal temp. Ice maker operated perfectly.

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

remove fiber grill cover, remove large bolt holding under frame ( with a 2X4 block, place under refrigerator on outside edge so frame can drop down.) remove pin from broken wheel, replace reversing proceedure. Note: when blocking refrigerator, care must be taken not to let block extend under entire frame. it only needs to be placed approx 3/4" under edge of refrigerator.

Turn off power to the frig. Remove the shelves and back brackets from the freezer, then with a 1/4" nut driver remove the nuts holding the rear metal panel in place. Once removed the defrost thermostat is right in front of you. You will have to clip the wires from the old t-stat because they are in a harness. Once clipped, strip the wires back, wire in the new t-stat, add wire nuts and put it all back together. Very easy job to do, works great. Thanks Parts Select, Mike.

I tried to just replace the cover rather than the whole unit but it was impossible - the cover would not go/stay on. I tried to remove the old unit completely but it would not unplug it was practically fused to the back of the fridge and the liner was cracking. I ended up breaking the cover and jerry rigging it over the bulb to prevent items in the fridge from being able to touch. Bad solution.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

Switch off power at mains outlet. Pull off the front trim panel on the control box at top of the refrigerator compartment (it is just clipped into place). Behind are two screws which you remove. Remove the bulb and also two screws underneath and towards back of the control box. You can then pull down the control box. The defrost timer board is now visible and can easily be switched out (it comes with instructions how to do this). This job too no more than 20 minutes and saved me buying a new refrigerator at $1000.

Per instructions