1033247812 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Troubleshooted ALL possible causes and after perusing the owners manual and PartSelect blogs. Can't say it enough, people!! Do your homework- there are 3 possible parts that can cause the oven not to light; Igniter, gas safety valve, or thermostat / power switch assy (oven control knob).
SAFETY FIRST...UNPLUG the stove before performing any of the following electrical circuit checks (besides voltage check, which is ONLY for those qualified for electrical circuit maintenance)

Remove oven door by opening slightly and pulling straight up- it will slide right off the hinges.
Remove the 2 thumb screws holding the lower oven plate and slide it toward the back while lifting up on rear of plate to clear the front flange and then remove the plate.
The burner tube baffle plate will come right off after removing the one retainer screw (1/4" nut driver).
(Optional)Remove the whole broiler drawer by sliding it fully open and lifting it up by the front end.
Now you'll have clear access to the igniter, which is mounted on the rearward end of the burner tube with two 1/4" machine screws. Disconnect the igniter wire connectors at the gas safety valve and wire harness. Remove it and SAVE the screws for mounting the new igniter!! NOTE: .
Handle the new igniter CAREFULLY!! (don't drop it or bang it against anything solid or the heating element will break).

1) Checked t-stat switch on oven knob - good (closed or 0 ohms when turned on). This verifies you are getting supply voltage to the igniter circuit. Lift the oven top by the front corners until the supports lock into place. Locate and disconnect wires on back of switch and measure ohms across switch terminals.
2) Checked voltage at igniter wire terminals with oven knob turned on (this step ONLY for those familiar with proper use of multimeter and training for electrical circuit maintenance). This verifies the gas safety valve switch is closed and correct voltage is available to power the igniter (120V).
3) Since I had proper power to the igniter wire terminals with the oven knob turned on past 200 deg., that verified a malfunctioning igniter.
4) I chose to solder and heat shrink the wire connectors to the new igniter but you can use the supplied ceramic wire nuts. Be sure to leave enough wire length when you cut the wires off the old igniter. Mount the new igniter to the bracket with the screws you saved and be sure to snug them good but DON'T overtighten and strip the threads!! Connect the two igniter wires to the gas safety valve terminal and the harness connector. Make sure the connections are snug!!
5) Reinstall the burner baffle plate and lower oven plate.
6) Remount oven door and turn on oven past 200 deg. The igniter element should glow bright red after a few seconds. Gas valve should open and burner will light a few seconds later.
NOTE: Make sure the gas cock for the oven (on the side of the main gas regulator valve) is flipped to the open position or gas will not flow to the oven burner. The main gas regulator valve is located under the range top toward the rear (trace the gas lines if you can't locate it readily)

The repair was easy and not very time consuming. It didn't take very long to fix the problem and thanks to this site, I was able to save the money I would have spent if a repair technician came out to do the same work. Now I can afford Christmas and cook too!

Turned the wire protector to the side. Turned out the old bulb and replaced it with the new. Turned the wire protector back in place and I'm like new.

I removed lower drawer, removed oven door,
took out rear screws to oven pan,removed screws that attatch ignighter to oven wall,disconnected wiring and removed old ignighter. reversed process to install new part. total repair time was about 20 minutes. Also take into consideration that i am a building contractor familiar to appliance repair etc.

First had to disconnect the old igniter by removing screw with a small wratchet wrench. Then pull out approximately 3" of wire from the old igniter, cut off old igniter, attache replacement igniter with supplied wire nuts, shove excess wire back into wiring compartment and then attach the new igniter.

I removed the igniter by first removing the oven racks then the oven pan and oven catch pans. I open the lower draw to the oven and removed the drawer. I reached back under the oven and clipped the wires that run to the igniter and striped a half inch of plastic to expose the wire. I removed the igniter from the burner and replaced with new igniter. I then fed the wires back through the hole the cut wires came out of and used the wire nuts supplied to connect. Replaced other parts in reverse order and tested. Works great.

frist tested ignitor with meter removed ignitor order
part , I recieved to my surprise next day I'm a very happy person

The biggest problem is to get down low enough and far enough back to be able to reach the igniter. Other tan that , it was a simple affair.Unscrew the old one and detach the wire nuts and reverse the procedure for the installation and hope the gas valve has'nt been affected

Removed the three screws from the top and bottom of the oven door. Removed the outside door cover from the inside door panel. This gave me access to the six screws that hold the two sections of the inside panel together. The glass of the inside oven window was manufactured without the installation of retainers to keep the window from moving. I installed the four retainers that I purchased. Reassembled the door. The glass now stays in place. Since there were no retainers to begin with I had to figure out how they were to be installed to prevent the glass from moving around.

Using descriptions provided by others at this site, I replaced the old igniter with the new one very easily. Since this was the second time this oven has needed a new igniter, I did not need to cut the wires as described. Instead, I just disconnected the old igniter wires and rewired the new igniter wires. Replaced all the items I'd removed and the oven functions just fine.

Moved stove out from wall and unplugged 110 cord. Removed broken igniter from broiler with nut driver. Removed protective cover from back of stove. Cut off plug from existing igniter wires on the back of the stove. Installed new igniter and fed wires trough to the back of stove and connected the wires with the supplied wire nuts. Reinstalled protective cover on the back of the stove. Plugged the 110 cord back in and returned stove back to the original location.

Removed the bottom cover plate and the bottom storage drawer. Disconnected the burner and removed it. Replaced the old igniter with the new one. The new one required the wire connectors from the old one to be spliced onto it. Reattached the ignitor to the burner and reinstalled the burner. Tested the new ignitor before reinstalling the cover plate and storage drawer.

Take bottom drawer out, take two 1\4 inch drive screws out from back bottom of inside of oven. Take out protector plate . Remove 1\4 inch drive screws from bottom burner[back of oven] where drawer was. Extract burner. Rest is self explanitory. Good luck. . . . . .

First I removed the bottom oven drawer then
I removed the heat shields. I removed the two
wires that connected the igniter and the two screws holding the igniter and removed it. I
replaced a wire connector on one side of the
igniter. The other igniter wire I soldered together
to the other wire. Then I replaced the igniter by
reconnecting the two mounting screws. Then I replaced the heat shields and the oven drawer.

I followed the advice in the previous repair stories as this was very helpful.

I didn't know if polarity on the igniter mattered, so to be safe I marked the same wire on the old igniter and the corresponding wire on the new ignitor and plug, so it would be hooked up with the same polarity.

I took the burner element out to make it easier to replace the ignitor. I made sure to leave plenty of wire when cutting the connectors off the old igniter. Hooked everything up and it worked perfectly.