Door Spring

Per the recommendation from PartSelect.com, I purchased 2 new springs and 2 new clips - one set for each side. With the bottom cover plate removed below the door, I removed the remaining spring and clip and installed the 2 new springs and clips by hand. The door now opens with resistance and won't even stay completely opened unless the lower dishwasher tray is rolled out on it. it's like new.
This is the second repair to this dishwasher. Last year I replaced the door latch that had broken with a replacement purchased from partselect.com. That repair was also quite easy.
PartSelect's full part brochures by model made identifying the needed parts simple, and the replacement a breeze.
I even repaired my refrigerator ice maker a couple months ago after purchasing a new control module, and saving both a service fee and the probable full price for a new ice maker.
I've repaired my electric clothes dryer too, and hadn't even thought about all the repairs I'd done thanks to this website, until I told the story of my dishwasher.
I've probably saved $1000 already. Wow!
I love this site.

First unplug the unit.

Second remove the kickplate. When you do this pay attention to the position of the insulation panel. It is confusing as to how it is put back together. Simple if you see how it comes apart.

Third unsrew the screws that hold dishwasher in palce under the counter top.

Genly pull the appliance from under the counter top. Understand the copper piping connected to the unit for water will only allow you to pull it out a few inches. Otherwise you would have to turn off and disconnect the water supply.

Reinstall the plastic clipsand springs. There are several holes in the frame of the dishwasher where the springs will attach. The further back you attach them, the more tension will be applied to the springs. This part of the operation is somewhat trying as you have limited visibility and access.

When springs and clips are installed, test door, slide unit back in place, reattach kickplate and insulation panel and then reattach to countertop.

All in all relatively simple and doable. If I had any problem it wasnot paying attention to how the insulation panel and kickplate came apart. No big deal.

I found the parts needed on Part Select and read comments by users. I took the suggestion to buy both springs at the same time and the door linkages too. Although they were pricey, the parts arrived in a few days and were absolutely perfect. To my suprise and delight, the entire fix for the broken spring and link and the opposite spring and link were easily accomplished in less than 10 minutes. The links just hook directly onto a small hook on the door and the springs have specially bent ends that fid the linkage and then the adjustable length holes on the door. It made me feel quite manly for about fifteen minutes as I made everyone in the house open and close the dishwasher door several times.

After having a repairman out to changing the door handle and seeing how easy it was...I decided to try to fix the spring issue myself. I am fairly confident with most small fix it items in our house, so decided to order the original spring & linkage. The website was pretty self-explanatory, but wished someone hinted that when you have one broken spring, the other usually goes out within a short period of time. Note to others, ordered 2 springs & linkage and avoided another shipping charge. Do both springs at the same time, and will save you time in the long run. Otherwise, super easy to change out...wish all appliance issues were this easy to fix. I did not need to take of door off....I just needed to lay on floor & become a little limber. Other than that...super easy.

Previous self-repair instructions provided on this site were very helpful. I started by removing items from under the sink and inspecting drainage and water hoses of the dishwasher to determine amount of "play" for sliding the washer out. Next, remove the two screws that secure the washer under the top of the counter. Then, remove the kickplate and barrier at the bottom. The washer then slid easily out far enough to explose the spring connector arms. I removed the old springs from the floor and the pieces of the old links (one link was ok, but I saved it for a spare). I installed the links and springs on both sides and connected to the first hole. By the way, the hole in the lower frame relatively close behind link is NOT the spring connection hole. There are a series of holes farther back. After testing the door and re-hooking the springs twice,I decided that the fourth hole gave the tension that I wanted. Now the door will come up about half way on its own, but will stay fully open when pulling out the empty bottom basket. Slide the washer back under the counter, being careful not to catch the insulation at the top and sides of the washer. Line up the top screw holes and install the screws. Install the barrier panel and kickplate at the bottom. I had to "fiddle" with the kick plate and barrier panel a little to get it right because I did not play close attention when removing them. I probably saved $100 by doing it myself. My wife said "It's just like new!"

Removed the two bracket screws attaching the washer to the countertop, and removed the kick panel beneath the door. Pulled the washer out enough to access the spring arms. Replaced the broken spring arms, and pushed the washer back into it's space, re-attaching the kick plate, and securing the lock tabs on top of the washer. Used one phillips screwdriver, a #2 tip. That simple.

Took out the 2 set screws in the counter that held the dishwasher in place; pulled it out and found the broken spring; replaced both springs. Pushed the washer back in place reset the screws. Then snaped on the 3 rack wheels and was done! Now, all I have to do is to keep the grand babay from helping too much!

I took the door off by removing the two screws that hold the it in place. I removed the two screws that secures the diswasher to the cabinets. I slide out the unit approx 3 inches. I attached the new spring and linkage (very simple to see how it connects).

I pushed the unit back in, secured it to the cabinet and put the door back on.

That's it! Easy. I saved at least $150 service call with Sears.

Slid dishwasher out from under counter about six or eight inches. I was able to see where to attach the new spring and linkage. There are many holes in the base of dishwasher so that you may adjust the door balance by choosing a different hole. I used the same one on the right side that was used on the left side and it just balances perfectly. Slid it back in and attached the screws at the top and adjusted the feet with a 3/16 socket and small rachet;took about 30 minutes.

Turned off power to dishwasher and shut off water supply.
Removed the screws holding the dishwasher to the countertop and the base plate at the bottom. Put some cardboard down on the wood kitchen floor to prevent scratching and pulled the dishwasher out about a foot. Installed new spring and then checked tension and adjusted tension by moving spring connection until door held its position correctly, making sure to have springs on both sides set the same way.

Then pushed dishwasher back into position and reattached base plate and to countertop.