Inlet Sump WD18X10008

The connector pump had a pinhole leak at the seam (new part did not have seams). Also replaced the sump inlet which looked worn and the impeller.

Lay dishwasher on it's back to access the bottom. Loosen all clamps. Remove both U shaped holders on the sump inlet. Remove screws holding the drain motor. Pull out the pump motor and sump inlet. Connector pump can be unscrewed from the bottom.

Replace parts and reassemble. It isn't that bad once you start disassembly, especially for anyone somewhat handy.

First, I took off all the pipe clamps and retaining brackets. Then, I pried it out of there. One of the tabs holding one of the other bits to the body got busted, but it didn't matter, as it is held on very well just by the pipe clamp connection. I stuck the new one in and re-attached all the hoses. The GIANT complication was that a new floor had been installed over the old floor, right up against the kick plate- so in order to remove the dishwasher, I had to slice open the counter, as the new floor prevented sliding it out. To prevent the problem recurring, I spray painted over the sump inlet to make it taste worse. This is the downside of a cat door.

Disconnected the electricity, the drain hose, and the water supply from the dishwasher. Loosened the two screws from the countertop and pulled out the dishwasher. Turned it on to it's side. Saw the damaged inlet sump. Had to remove the Pump connector to get to the inlet sump. Checked it also and discovered that it was starting to develop a small crack from the inside. I decided to replace it as well. The job involves removing the hose clamps and removing the spray mechanizm from the interior of the dishwasher to spin out the inlet sump. Not a difficult job.

Removed the unit from under counter and placed it with the door side down. Removed clamps/bands from the outlets on the sump and removed screws that attached sump to dishwasher tub. Reversed the process with the new sump and positioned the dishwasher unt=der the cabinet. Next step was to remove the arm and cover parts to the sump, then removed the old upper neck portion that stuck to a strainer. Then aligned the strainer to connect to the small neck of the sump and replaced items in the order from which they were removed.

I had a slow leak from vicinity of sump. I replaced sump and pump connector as these were only likely sources of leak based on parts select history. Turns out plastic tub had a fine crack. The crack was directly under the heating element which had melted the plastic and over time created this small crack that was found by a repair guy immediately. I even suspected a tub leak and searched for one but being directly under the element made it invisible to me and in an area I did not suspect (front). Oh well - also learned GE charges $100. to come to my house, show me a crack, and leave (I repaired it with epoxy).