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Product Description
Drum Support Roller Kit Specifications
This drum support roller includes one drum roller and two bearings. Most dryers use two drum rollers, and it is recommended to change both at once.
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Part Videos
Replacing your Maytag Dryer Drum Support Roller Kit
![Replacing your Maytag Dryer Drum Support Roller Kit Replacing your Maytag Dryer Drum Support Roller Kit](https://img.youtube.com/vi/XDFNdsEPt_8/maxresdefault.jpg)
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Noisy | Marks left on clothes | Drum Not Spinning
This part works with the following products:
Dryer, Washer Dryer Combo.
This part works with the following products:
Maytag, International, Jenn-Air, Crosley.
Part# 12001541 replaces these:
AP4008534, 400518, 12001541, 12001541, 12001541VP, 3-3373, 303373, K35-248, W10116741, Y303373
Customer Reviews
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R Christopher M - February 21, 2024
Verified Purchase
Easy repair. Great part. Worked as expected.
The drum roller kit came with the necessary washers and the roller was a perfect fit replaement. The video on the PartSelect website made the process of replacement understandable and simple to follow.
Constance P - February 13, 2024
Verified Purchase
Maytag Dryer Repair - Drum Support Roller Kit
The part arrived within 5 business days via Canada Post. The install was a little tricky, but we were very happy that we are still able to find parts and repair this vintage model Maytag dryer.
Marie-Dominique C - January 16, 2024
Verified Purchase
The enclosed videos are very well designed and very useful.
I would like to thank you for your professionalism and the excellent service I received from you.
Darrell B - September 23, 2023
Verified Purchase
Fixed the squeal in my dryer.
Working great so far.
Michael N - September 13, 2023
Verified Purchase
I get all my part though partSelect.
Great part service with video support makes your repair easy without a big expense.
Boyd S - May 25, 2023
Verified Purchase
Good producr
Fit and was easy to install
Dwayne S - March 4, 2023
Verified Purchase
Great PartSelect how to video made repair easy
Thanks so much for genuine parts and great instructions.
Peter R - March 1, 2023
Verified Purchase
Gave my 30 year old dryer a new life!
We replaced this part along with the drum felts, front sides and blower wheel. The videos walked us through the process. The dryer is running quietly again. Hoping for another 30 years...
Richard M - May 28, 2022
Verified Purchase
A+++
Perfect fit, easy installation :)
Ali N - March 25, 2022
Verified Purchase
Worked as expected economically good value
The parts arrived in good condition, the repair is not difficult just follow the steps in the video specially how to put the belt back on... the dryer is working perfectly no more noises!
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 2.9 / 5.0, 242 reviews.
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noisy rollers, broken latch
first, I unplug the power supply of the dryer then I removed the two screws at the bottom of the dryer then pulled out the front part of the dryer,unplugged the blue & yellow wire for the on/off switch for the door,at the back of the dryer I unscrew the pannel for the belt,disconect the belt,and I unscrew the four screws on both side of the front pannel to remove the front cover of the drum. Once I removed the front cover of the drum I can now remove the drum itself to access the drum support roller. I unscrew the rollers then replace it with the new once. It was an easy job.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Other Parts Used:
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gerry from west covina,, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Belt broke on old machine.
1. Removed front of machine (2 screws at the bottom).
2. Removed 4 screws from inside the dryer, to take off the blower housing.
3. Removed 4 screws and took out the large metal piece which supports the drum at the front. Removed the drum.
4. Replaced the two rollers that support the drum in the rear. Cleaned the pins they run on, and oiled very lightly. Also replaced the idler roller. I was surpirsed to see that these rollers use plain bearings, not ball bearings.
5. On the front support piece, drilled out the rivets for the glides, and replaced the worn out glides with new parts. Applied a little glue (3M weatherstrip adhesive) to the cork pieces, to glue them to the metal. Attached the plastic pieces over the cork pieces, and riveted in place using rivets that came with the glide kits.
6. Replaced front and rear felt seals. This was not as tricky as I expected it to be. They were held in by metal tabs. Glued the ends where they came together.
7. Replaced the felt blower seal. Glued to the blower housing.
8. Reinstalled the drum, installed new belt, which came with good instructions (luckily).
9. Reassembled front support piece and the front of the cabinet.
I also cleaned the lint from the cabinet and from the vent hose.
In general, the job went without a hitch, and the machine probably has quite a few years left, despite the fact that it's 18 years old. This gives me a good feeling.
I'd say this would be challenging, though, for someone who is not pretty experienced with machinery repair. Also, the cost of the parts was significant enough that it would not have been unreasonable to have opted for a new machine.
2. Removed 4 screws from inside the dryer, to take off the blower housing.
3. Removed 4 screws and took out the large metal piece which supports the drum at the front. Removed the drum.
4. Replaced the two rollers that support the drum in the rear. Cleaned the pins they run on, and oiled very lightly. Also replaced the idler roller. I was surpirsed to see that these rollers use plain bearings, not ball bearings.
5. On the front support piece, drilled out the rivets for the glides, and replaced the worn out glides with new parts. Applied a little glue (3M weatherstrip adhesive) to the cork pieces, to glue them to the metal. Attached the plastic pieces over the cork pieces, and riveted in place using rivets that came with the glide kits.
6. Replaced front and rear felt seals. This was not as tricky as I expected it to be. They were held in by metal tabs. Glued the ends where they came together.
7. Replaced the felt blower seal. Glued to the blower housing.
8. Reinstalled the drum, installed new belt, which came with good instructions (luckily).
9. Reassembled front support piece and the front of the cabinet.
I also cleaned the lint from the cabinet and from the vent hose.
In general, the job went without a hitch, and the machine probably has quite a few years left, despite the fact that it's 18 years old. This gives me a good feeling.
I'd say this would be challenging, though, for someone who is not pretty experienced with machinery repair. Also, the cost of the parts was significant enough that it would not have been unreasonable to have opted for a new machine.
Other Parts Used:
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John from Charlottesville, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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dryer squeeking
removed front panel,lifted top, removed drum and drive belt,remove old rollers and acc and instlled new and reinstalled dryer parts.
Other Parts Used:
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gerald from park city, MT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Dryer squeeking loudly becoming worse quickly
I received my parts promptly and had no problems, they were accurate and fit well.
After removing the screws to the front door and panel I removed the wires to the door switch. Carefully I removed the belt and removed the drum. I took the time to vacuum all of the lent from the inside and and remove from all the wiring, motor and heating elements, etc. I replaced the drum rollers, belt, front glides and a buzzer that was on the blink. I reassembled the dryer and unforetunately the dryer was still squeeking. I later repeated the process and found that the tensioner wheel for the belt was the culprit. I cleaned then greased the bearing portion and replaced it. I reassembled the dryer a second time and now it's quiet as a mouse. By the way, you will need a rivet gun to replace the front glides and I recommend you give the belt tensioner wheel a good inspection the first time.
If your dryer is squeeking, go ahead and order the tensioner wheel also, it's a little money spent toward making sure you get rid of the noise! It might save you a lot of time and trouble.
After removing the screws to the front door and panel I removed the wires to the door switch. Carefully I removed the belt and removed the drum. I took the time to vacuum all of the lent from the inside and and remove from all the wiring, motor and heating elements, etc. I replaced the drum rollers, belt, front glides and a buzzer that was on the blink. I reassembled the dryer and unforetunately the dryer was still squeeking. I later repeated the process and found that the tensioner wheel for the belt was the culprit. I cleaned then greased the bearing portion and replaced it. I reassembled the dryer a second time and now it's quiet as a mouse. By the way, you will need a rivet gun to replace the front glides and I recommend you give the belt tensioner wheel a good inspection the first time.
If your dryer is squeeking, go ahead and order the tensioner wheel also, it's a little money spent toward making sure you get rid of the noise! It might save you a lot of time and trouble.
Other Parts Used:
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Mark from Lafayette, LA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Motor buzzed and dryer drum would not spin when pressing start
From the first time the motor buzzed (but dryer tumbler then started to turn), 2 weeks elapsed for the dryer drum to stop turning altogether. If this occurs, DO NOT continue to push the start button because the motor armature wiring will heat up and the insulation will begin to melt and smell - a SAFETY HAZARD. Unplug dryer and lockout/tagout as appropriate.
Through basic troubleshooting, discovered the motor had seized up. Since the unit was about 10 years old and it had to be disassembled for replacement, the decision was made to replace "likely to fail mechanical components including motor, belt, both rear drum rollers/shafts, idler arm pulley/assembly/wheel, associated washers, snap rings and both front glides. Reviewed the PartSelect website and drawings, ordered the parts and they delivered on time. Buy the correct sized snap rings at a local hardware, they're much less expensive. Also once inside your dryer, you'll likely find alot of lint to vacuum out...have fun.
I went online and Googled several resources that showed how to remove the front dryer panels, as well as PartSelect repair stories. From that point on, I took photos as I was disassembling so I would know how to put it back together. Utilize pictures or whatever system you prefer to keep track of taking something apart and putting it back together.
Remove the dryer door, then the front panel Disconnect wires to the light, dryness sensor and door switch. Note belt and pulley configuration that is near the motor-this will help you later when reinstalling the belt. Also note if the ribbed side or the flat side of the belt is against the outer drum wall. Remove the door shroud.
Slip the belt off the idler pulley wheel. Remove front drum support, then dryer drum Note which end of the dryer drum is the front and the orientation of the glides on the drum support. Discard old belt. Drill out and remove the old front glide supports, then install/rivet the new glides.
Remove both old rear drum rollers/shafts, washers, etc. The rear drum roller shafts are secured to a back bracket by a hex nut....feel around you'll figure it out. Replace new roller shafts. Lightly grease using a high quality silicon grease, then replace new washers, roller, snap ring, etc
Carefully unplug wiring harness on motor, there are fragile clips on each end. Don't forget a separate ground wire from the harness is attached to the motor mount bracket. Carefully release tension on the idler arm spring. Using the correct size nut driver, remove three screws (on this model) then take out the motor/idler arm assembly. Remove the old idler arm/pulley assembly. Remove the motor mount clips on each end of the mount (I used a wide blade screwdriver). Remove and replace the motor. Motor configurations changed after Whirlpool bought Maytag, so orient it correctly insuring mounting gasket "nubs" on each end of the motor correspond to the cutouts on the motor mount. Reinstall the motor mount clips. Replace the new idler arm assembly/pulley wheel; grease moving parts with high quality wheel bearing grease. Replace motor/mount bracket assembly back into the dryer. Replace ground wire to motor mount bracket and plug wiring harness back in. Reinstall idler arm spring.
Place belt back on the dryer drum and move into place on rear rollers. Reinstall front drum support. Dryer drum should turn relatively easy. Insure belt is oriented on the drum correctly before connecting belt to motor shaft end and idler arm wheel pulley (the picture you took comes in handy here).
Reinstall the rest of the parts in reverse.
Through basic troubleshooting, discovered the motor had seized up. Since the unit was about 10 years old and it had to be disassembled for replacement, the decision was made to replace "likely to fail mechanical components including motor, belt, both rear drum rollers/shafts, idler arm pulley/assembly/wheel, associated washers, snap rings and both front glides. Reviewed the PartSelect website and drawings, ordered the parts and they delivered on time. Buy the correct sized snap rings at a local hardware, they're much less expensive. Also once inside your dryer, you'll likely find alot of lint to vacuum out...have fun.
I went online and Googled several resources that showed how to remove the front dryer panels, as well as PartSelect repair stories. From that point on, I took photos as I was disassembling so I would know how to put it back together. Utilize pictures or whatever system you prefer to keep track of taking something apart and putting it back together.
Remove the dryer door, then the front panel Disconnect wires to the light, dryness sensor and door switch. Note belt and pulley configuration that is near the motor-this will help you later when reinstalling the belt. Also note if the ribbed side or the flat side of the belt is against the outer drum wall. Remove the door shroud.
Slip the belt off the idler pulley wheel. Remove front drum support, then dryer drum Note which end of the dryer drum is the front and the orientation of the glides on the drum support. Discard old belt. Drill out and remove the old front glide supports, then install/rivet the new glides.
Remove both old rear drum rollers/shafts, washers, etc. The rear drum roller shafts are secured to a back bracket by a hex nut....feel around you'll figure it out. Replace new roller shafts. Lightly grease using a high quality silicon grease, then replace new washers, roller, snap ring, etc
Carefully unplug wiring harness on motor, there are fragile clips on each end. Don't forget a separate ground wire from the harness is attached to the motor mount bracket. Carefully release tension on the idler arm spring. Using the correct size nut driver, remove three screws (on this model) then take out the motor/idler arm assembly. Remove the old idler arm/pulley assembly. Remove the motor mount clips on each end of the mount (I used a wide blade screwdriver). Remove and replace the motor. Motor configurations changed after Whirlpool bought Maytag, so orient it correctly insuring mounting gasket "nubs" on each end of the motor correspond to the cutouts on the motor mount. Reinstall the motor mount clips. Replace the new idler arm assembly/pulley wheel; grease moving parts with high quality wheel bearing grease. Replace motor/mount bracket assembly back into the dryer. Replace ground wire to motor mount bracket and plug wiring harness back in. Reinstall idler arm spring.
Place belt back on the dryer drum and move into place on rear rollers. Reinstall front drum support. Dryer drum should turn relatively easy. Insure belt is oriented on the drum correctly before connecting belt to motor shaft end and idler arm wheel pulley (the picture you took comes in handy here).
Reinstall the rest of the parts in reverse.
Other Parts Used:
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Frederick W. from Austin, TX
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
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Alarming rattling/rumbling noise
I told my wife, "it's working fine. Let's just wait until it breaks, and I'll fix it." She said the noise is intolerable and if I didn't fix it, she'd "call someone to come and look at it."
The forums all suggested that noise during operation is due to worn out components that are involved with turning the tumbler. So I ordered a bunch of parts from Partselect.com and set to work. I replaced the belt, the belt idler wheel, and both of the tumbler support wheels.
I reinstalled the tumbler, plugged the dryer in, and started it up. Damn, the same noise as before. Wait! The tumbler isn't turning. In my haste to see if the noise was gone, I'd forgotten to rethread the belt. Analysis: noise unchanged but tumbler not rotating. Conclusion: the hateful noise has nothing to do with any of the components involved in turning the tumbler.
Looking and listening more closely, I determined that the noise was coming from the blower, the plastic squirrel-cage like assembly attached to the other end of the motor shaft. It seems to be rattling on the shaft, causing the noise. I remove it, clean off a couple decades of matted-on lint, and reinstall it. No change.
I do not have a replacement blower, so I remove the blower from the shaft, clean up the shaft with alcohol, then put a piece of plastic electrical tape part way around the shaft, effectively increasing its OD by a few thousandths of an inch. I reinstall the blower, put everything back together again, and start it up. No noise -- nothing but a low purring hum! Good enough for me, for as long as it lasts. When my improvised patch fails, I'll order a new blower and install that.
It's good that I was so stupid as to forget to reinstall the belt before I started the dryer the first time. Since the noise was still there, I was forced to re-examine my assumption that the noise was being caused by a worn-out tumbler-turning component. If i HAD installed the belt the first time, I'm sure I would have continued with the incorrect assumption that the noise problem was related to the tumbler.
My time and money weren't wasted, I don't think. The various wheels and the belt were over 16 years old and due for replacement anyhow.
The forums all suggested that noise during operation is due to worn out components that are involved with turning the tumbler. So I ordered a bunch of parts from Partselect.com and set to work. I replaced the belt, the belt idler wheel, and both of the tumbler support wheels.
I reinstalled the tumbler, plugged the dryer in, and started it up. Damn, the same noise as before. Wait! The tumbler isn't turning. In my haste to see if the noise was gone, I'd forgotten to rethread the belt. Analysis: noise unchanged but tumbler not rotating. Conclusion: the hateful noise has nothing to do with any of the components involved in turning the tumbler.
Looking and listening more closely, I determined that the noise was coming from the blower, the plastic squirrel-cage like assembly attached to the other end of the motor shaft. It seems to be rattling on the shaft, causing the noise. I remove it, clean off a couple decades of matted-on lint, and reinstall it. No change.
I do not have a replacement blower, so I remove the blower from the shaft, clean up the shaft with alcohol, then put a piece of plastic electrical tape part way around the shaft, effectively increasing its OD by a few thousandths of an inch. I reinstall the blower, put everything back together again, and start it up. No noise -- nothing but a low purring hum! Good enough for me, for as long as it lasts. When my improvised patch fails, I'll order a new blower and install that.
It's good that I was so stupid as to forget to reinstall the belt before I started the dryer the first time. Since the noise was still there, I was forced to re-examine my assumption that the noise was being caused by a worn-out tumbler-turning component. If i HAD installed the belt the first time, I'm sure I would have continued with the incorrect assumption that the noise problem was related to the tumbler.
My time and money weren't wasted, I don't think. The various wheels and the belt were over 16 years old and due for replacement anyhow.
Other Parts Used:
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Wayne from Minneapolis, MN
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Squeeling on startup and intermittently during use
First, I read reviews on this forum. Great help! I was betting, from previous reviews, that it was a drum roller. I took everything apart prior to ordering any parts. Sure enough, one drum roller was seized on the roller shaft. Decided to replace all rotating parts (rollers,shafts, belt, idler pulley) while everything was apart. I also took the opportunity to clean out all of the lint (there was a lot) from the motor and intake.
Parts were on my doorstep in two days. The dryer is like brand new. I could do this job again in less than an hour. This was money and time well spent.
Parts were on my doorstep in two days. The dryer is like brand new. I could do this job again in less than an hour. This was money and time well spent.
Other Parts Used:
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Larry from Panama City Beach, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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The dryer was making a terrible noise that sounded like bearings squealing.
I've never even opened this dryer before so I looked at one of the installation videos PartSelect has. I found one using my model, which made it really easy. I removed the front panel and door, then lifted the top of the dryer up on it's hinges: that's a great feature because you need the top out of the way to remove the drum. I took the belt off the drum, lifted it up and pulled it straight out. I did buy a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring off the drum support shaft. I think you really must have those to remove and replace the rings. Be careful when removing the snap rings. I shot the first one across the room like it was a rubber band. We had a good laugh. I used a wrench to hold the nut on the backside of the roller shaft and unscrewed it. I screwed the new roller shafts on, slipped the drum rollers on them, then carefully used the snap ring pliers to place the rings on the front of the shaft to hold the rollers on. While I had the unit opened up, I figured I should go ahead and replace the multi rib belt. I put the ribbed side on the drum and sat the drum on the rollers . The tricky part is now getting down on the ground, reaching under the drum for the belt. Make sure the belt isn't twisted anywhere on the drum or in your hands while you pull the belt under the idler pulley. Hold the belt ribbed sides together while feeding the belt under the pulley. It takes a good deal of strength to move the pulley over so you can hook the end of the belt on the shaft. Once you've gotten that attached, put your hand inside the drum and rotate it a few times to make sure you connected it properly and that you placed the belt in the right spot on the drum. It was easy to see the black stripe around the drum where I'd taken off the old one.
Other Parts Used:
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Edward from Pike Road, AL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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dryer was noisy, tumbler rollers and shafts wore out
disassembled dryer and removed and replaced rollers and shafts and installed new belt while i was at it. very easy fix, ordered parts from PARTS ELECT.COM , excellent website with great views of my machine made it east to order correct parts.very fast delivery , will use partselect again! HIGHLY RECOMMEND
Other Parts Used:
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jim from chesaning, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
47 of 1405 people
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Idler Pulley worn, squeaking
Did an on-line search on Matag dis-assembly, pulled front panel, dryer drum, replaced idler pulley, rollers and belt. Also, vacuumed dryer cabinet , now the dryer works like new. This is an easy repair for anyone with any mechanical ability, and just basic tools.
Other Parts Used:
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Charles from Port Jefferson, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Questions and Answers
Ask our experts a question about this part and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
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Dale
July 20, 2017
When I put clothes in my dryer and turn it on, it is making a loud clunking noise like I have a pair of shoes inside. I’m also getting black marks on the clothes that I don’t think are coming from the washer. What could be the problem(s)?
Hello Dale. We can address both your problems! The thumping sound is most commonly caused by a drum roller that is failing 12001541. A failing drum roller teamed with a worn seal WP33001807 is most likely the reason your clothes are getting marked. If the seal is worn it will cause the clothes to catch on the gap where the seal is located, this could snag them and create black marks. Good luck with this repair!
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Paul
July 20, 2017
From what I read on your site it sounds like I need to replace my supports. The problem is a loud squeaking noise during cycle. Does that sound right? I don’t want to buy 2 of these without knowing for sure. What else would you recommend checking at the same time? My wife wants the noise gone.
Hi Paul, thanks for getting in touch. You did find the right roller for your model, it is 12001541 and you will need two of them for this repair. We also recommend checking your felt seals to make sure they are sturdy and in place, and that your idler pulley is in a good working condition. These are all the most common reasons a dryer would be squeaky during cycle.
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Robert
February 19, 2018
So my dryer started making a screeching load sound after a minute when starting.We had this dryer for a 8+years with no other issues. Hope you can help. Thank you! Rob
For model number MDE4916AYW
Hi Robert, Thank you for the question. The noise could be caused by a few things. I suggest checking for wear on the Belt,PartSelect Number PS11741110. The drum support rollers, PartSelect Number PS1570070. The drum glides, PartSelect Number PS1804752. The Drum Felt Seal, Dryer Drum Felt Seal or the Idler Pulley, PartSelect Number PS11743032. All these parts have videos on our site on how to install them. It will show how to take the appliance apart to get to them as well. Only way to know for sure is to take a look at the parts to see what one needs to be replaced. Hope this helps!
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Kay
July 20, 2017
When should I replace the drum rollers, what should I be looking for? And will I need lubricant for the shaft? If so what do you recommend?
Hi Kay, great question. If your rollers are already making noise during cycle they should be replaced, if not you should be looking for flat spots as a sign of wear. Also, you will not need to lubricate the shaft, it should all fit together without it. I hope this helps.
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Laura
October 29, 2017
My dryer is making a very high pitched whining noise, no all the time but is very loud squeaking when it occurs
For model number MGDE251YL0
Hi Laura, Thank you for the question.Unfortunately the noise can be caused by a few things.You may need to take the appliance apart to confirm what part is needed. First you can check the Dryer Drum Seal with Adhesive on the front of the drum., It can wear down and rub and cause the squeaking.This seal is also located on the back of the drum. You can also check the Drum Support Rollers and the shaft that holds the rollers.The drive belt can also cause the squeaking once it starts to wear or if the Idler Pulley with Bracket needs to be replaced. Hope this helps!
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GWENYTH
September 23, 2017
What size snap ring pliers do i need to replace the drum rollers?
Hello Gwenyth, thank you for contacting us. We have a how to video that shows how to install it with the proper tools needed. You can follow the link below, hope this helps!
https://www.partselect.com/PS1570070-Whirlpool-12001541-Drum-Support-Roller-Kit.htm#RepairVideo
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Aana
January 9, 2019
They told me i need it the rollers for my 3.5 cu. Ft. Compact dryer i been searching all day since morning they told me my dryer doesn’t have rollers i call someone to tell me what was wrong with it and I did what they told me do. I don't have another 55 dollars for them just to tell me what is wrong. With it can you help me out my dryer will start working for about a minute start rattling with a noise it sounds like it get heavy and turns off they told me it was the rollers the serial number it got erased so I don't know the date is 17/14
For model number MCSDRY35W
Hi Aana,
Thank you for your question. If you are hearing a rattling noise in the dryer it could be the rollers, but it could also be a loose belt causing the noise as well. You will need to inspect the parts to see which ones are causing the issue. If the dryer is setting off too soon, it may be the thermostats in the dryer. You will need to test the parts with a multimeter to see if they are working correctly. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Jommy
September 23, 2017
Does this come with a snap ring as well?
For model number LDE8604ACE
Hi Jommy,
Thank you for your question. This drum support roller kit includes one drum roller and two bearings/washers. Good luck with your repair.
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Bruce
March 27, 2019
Are diagram no’s 19 & 22 the same washers as in the drum support roller kit, #21?
For model number LDE7304ACE
Hello Bruce, Thank you for the question. Yes, the Washers #19 and #22 are the same washer. Thank you for your inquiry, good luck with this repair!
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Jay
January 1, 2018
Our dryer vibrates quite a bit - it started just after my wife washed the dog toys and bed before we brought home our new dog. Would replacing the drum support rollers likely fix this?
For model number LDG8424AAE
Hi Jay, Thank you for the question. I suggest checking the belt to make sure it did not slip off the pulley. You can also check the rollers to see if they were damaged while you are down there. You can check the felt seals on the front and back of the appliance for wear. The only way to know what the cause of the vibrating is to open up the cabinet to check the parts. Hope this helps!
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