6 Inch Element with Limiter W10823704

I removed 4 screws and then lifted up the top it gave me access to the element I followed the direction that came with the element (very clear to follow) removed and installed the new element and it worked fine. Remember to unplug the stove if it is electric this is not in the instructions.

1. Turned off power to trouble shoot the counter top range elements. 2. Raised the counter top up to work on it and slid two evenly placed wooden slats under the bottom of the housfor stability so it would not fall backdown into the counter top cut-out. 3. With a 1/4" nut driver removed the 10 hex-head screw that were holding the black glass top in place, pulled off the 4 . Control knobs and carefully removed the glass cover and carefully seet it aside in a safe place. 5. A visual inspection of the non working element showed that it had a burn out spot causing it not to heat. 6. Got the model number of the appliance and checked the internet for parts suppliers, chose parts elect because they had the part in stock and could overnight it for reinstallation the next day, part did arrive the next morning. A visual inspection show that it was the correct part and it would be a like for like swap out. 7. Prior to replacing the element check to see that the electrical power was still off at the circuit breaker, made a quick sketch of the wiring and identified the wires so that they would be reterminated at the same points. 8. Using the needle nose pliers pulled off the 4 stake on terminations. 9. Lifted out the 6" from the body of the unit , removed the 4 phillips screws holding parts what were to be transfered onto the new element. 10. Transfered parts onto the new element, reinstalled the element into the body of the unit, reinstalled the 4-stake-on wires to there appropriate terminals and verified with previous wiring sketch. 11. Reinstalled the glass top, 10 screw holding it in place and the 4-control knobs. 12 . Turned main power to the unit back on and turned on the replaced element, it work correctly, also checked the other 3 elements to make sure that they were working correctly. 13. When the unit had cooled, removed the wooden slats and lowered the counter top back into its cut-out making sure not to damage the glasstop. Job complete.

Two separate problems. The display gradually dimmed over time and finally went out completely. It was really easy installing the new display module. I analyzed the old one and found an 68uF electrolytic capacitor (<$1) that was bad. Don't know if any other component was bad. In looking at the display module it seems it was way over-priced at over $200. The second problem is that one of the small burners had a open heating wire. The installation of the new burner was OK except the new unit did not have any clips to hold it in place. I couldn't transfer the old clips over. So I just placed it under the holding bracket and hoped that it wouldn't move while I was putting the unit back in place and it didn't. So that is working OK now.

First thing- I cut off power to the range. I then removed two screws to allow the cook top to be lifted. I marked the wiring and replaced the burner. Reapplied power and started cooking!

I ohmed out the burner element that wasnt working and found it was open. I ordered a new element thru PartSelect and installed it in the stove. I powered up the stove and turned on the burner but it didnt get hot. After a bit of testing I found that the new elements safety overtemp terminals werent in the same configuration as the original unit. I made some wiring adjustments and the burner was operating properly. Thanks PartSelect

FIrst we found the power source ( this took us awhile) and cut the power at the fuse box. then we unplugged the cooktop and started to take out screws. It turned out the screw removal had nothing to do with the stove top coming out. We took the taping knife & pried it under a corner and lifted. the cook top was just sitting on the counter.
The hardest part of the whole job was holding the cook top because we did not disconnect the downdraft fan other than to pull the tape off the vent & fan. Now we could undo the rachet screws that held the glass top to the cook top & remove it.
Theburner was simply a matter of pulling connections loose & placing them on to the new one. The clips that hold the burner in place were removed w/ a screwdriver & replaced on to the new burner. Watch for the numbers on the burner underside to know where to reattache the clips. the unit that lights up to show that a burner is hot would not come off, but we managed to remove
the plastic part even though the clip screw would not loosen, and since it only had to float near by we used the unused wire included in the new part to hold it in place. Putting the unit back together was not too hard, but it took us a little while to get it all lined up. Be carefull of what ever you work on, the downdraft fan scratched up the counter top that we were working on. we started with cardboard under it & should have continued, we did not want to try & remove the fan. Then we put it back in the counter opening & plugged everything back in & to our amazement ( we are not handy people) it worked! the lights that had refused to work when one unit was burned out now worked on all four units. thank you partselect, we were able to do the repair with what you sent.

Ok this is a glasstop jenn air cce3531b, 5 burners, 11 years old. I am computer data entry employee and 56 years old. I have never done repairs myself in the past but decided to try. I ordered a new burner and indicator light as I wasnt sure which to replace. I found the main breaker and shut it off. I lifted the stovetop out of the counter opening by pushing it through the bottom and placed it on the counter with a towel under it, I had plenty of room to work so that was very easy. I used a nutdriver set to remove 12 screws and lifted off the top very carefully and placed it in the other room , since I had to repair unit thought I would also clean and replace the foam tape around the perimeter of the glasstop. Ok now I unscrewed 4 more screws with the nutdriver and replaced the indicator light, that took about 6 minutes so far. Then I turned the breaker back on and tested and it did not work. Turned breaker back off ,now I replaced the burner by lifting it out of the opening very easily, unscrewed with philips screwdriver 2 screws and the new burner was exactly the same as the existing one so I just slid the old connections off one at a time and replaced them as I went along onto the new burner, screwed it back into place and turned the breaker on and tested it and it worked. I now turned the breaker back off and took off the old foam tape from the glasstop and replaced with new, fit it back onto the base and screwed the 12 screws back in and placed it back into the counter opening and turned breaker back on and now all is fixed and I saved $100 dollars in labor fees. This took 35 minutes and was easy for me. Thanks you partselect

Removed 8 screws of retainer holding glass top to box.. Pulled 5 knobs and glass top and set aside. Popped 2 retaining clips holding burner , removed them and transferred to new burner (#12 and #48 position). Used wide blade screwdriver to facilitate removing terminals from old burner and attached terminals to new burner.Popped retaining clips into crossbeam, put glass top on and 8 screws back into retainer. Works great.

The repair was very easy. There were 3 screws under the front lip which had to be removed. This allowed the smooth glass top to be removed, tilt and pull forward. This exposed the burners and the unit I purchased was a direct replacemt for the burnt unit. All I had to do was remove the electrical clips from the old unit and put them on the new unit. There were 3 spring elements, each with 2 screws, which held the unit in place.

First I reviewed a video on YouTube by this site. Even though the range on the video was not the same as mind, it gave me an idea on what to do. I proceeded to pull the rang out from the wall and disconnected the power plug. Next I removed two screws from the back located on the left and used a flat blade screw driver to depress two brackets on the front to release the glass top panel. I unplugged the wiring harness and disconnected the grounding wire and took the glass panel off and laid it upside down on the kitchen table. I removed the old heating element first by unplugging the wiring and removing the brackets that held it in place. Installed the new one, plugged in all wirings, brackets, screws and replace the top back on the stove.