This thermostat has an internal heater L155-25F. This thermostat controls the internal drying temperature.
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Part Videos
Replacing your Whirlpool Dryer Cycling Thermostat
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Too hot | Not Heating
This part works with the following products:
Dryer.
This part works with the following products:
Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Crosley.
Part# WP8318268 replaces these:
AP6012744, 3977425, 3977706, 8318268
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★★★★★
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Sebastien R - May 7, 2021
Verified Purchase
Service impeccable
Reçu exactement la bonne pièce dans les délais promis. Fantastique
★★★★★
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LESLIE S - February 26, 2020
Verified Purchase
Perfect!
Perfect fit. Easy to install. And the shipping was fast.
★★★★★
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Serge C - September 4, 2019
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rapid and good
Purolator a bad compagnie small parts by canada post
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.5 / 5.0, 12 reviews.
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gas dryer not heating up.
First removed front and drum to check gas valve and igniter. No gas, no ignition. Checked power to devices; none (check hot line to ground, not to neutral.). Removed back of control panel looking for a relay or something. Found none, but did find a wiring diagram. That is where the site really came in handy. Studied wiring diagram together with the exploded view and pictures of each part to come up with a troubleshooting plan. Took the back off as well as a cover inside. Tested each part with meter, again going to ground and not across the device. Of course, the final device before the gas valve, a one time thermal fuse, was the bad part. At first assumed just a bad part. Later wondered if fuse did it's job and another part was bad. Ordered and installed new thermostat just in case. Put everything together after a complete cleaning and everything is fine so far. Not a particularly hard job because I had the wiring diagram and access to parts select site. Would have been much harder without them. Took a long time because almost the entire dryer had to come apart. But it got a good cleaning because of it and found a couple of bucks in change to help offset the cost. Can't imagine what a service call would have cost.
The dry was getting hot but not for long, then not at all.
Once the coils for the gas valve got hot they failed and shut the gas vavle off, we ended up changing the coils which fixed the problem but part select held up there end of shipping out these parts which we could not get localy. so if your dry ignites some time and or not for long its either these coils or the cycling thermostat which will casue the same conditions because the the cycling thermostat controls the coil. good luck!
after reading your site reviews I bought all 3 thermostat's. It took about 30 minutes (with a coffee break) to change them all out and that saved me $400.00. I popped the lower front pannel off and all three thermostat's were accessable from there. i needed to remove the lent trap and tube which is held on by 2 screws to access the thermal fuse and cycling thermostat. there was a lot of lint trapped in the tube. it was a few screws and some spade connectors. very easy repair. as I said above buy all 3 and it saved me $400.00.
The cycling thermostat was found to be not working when I checked it with a ohm meter. I ordered the part waited and installed it and it work just fine.
Other Parts Used:
Janet from FLINT, MI
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
Less than 15 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Pliers
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Stopped in mid-cycle. Would not restart.
PartSelect.com rocks! Watched the online videos and did what he did. Labeled wires so that I wouldn't switch them when re-connecting new parts. Although only the fuse may have been bad, I decided to replace the cycling thermostat as well, since others implied that they work in concert, and a defective thermostat could have triggered the fuse failure. Also, looked outside and saw that landscapers had recently piled mulch all the way up to dryer vent. (Could this have caused the parts to fail?) So for less than $45 (parts + standard shipping), the dryer works like new. Happy wife makes happy life.
You tube video for info. Using a multi-meter check for resistance on thermal fuse. it was open. take a picture of electrical component wiring before disassembly or draw a picture then mark wires with numbers to identify position. Before starting make sure to unplug the power cord. Have to remove the back cover 8 screws, Also it was suggested to replace the thermostat so i did. It may have caused the over heat condition. Replace the 2 parts,3 mounting screws and 6 wires. Put it back together and tested it. Dryer now works.
Dryer would start, and get warm, but not keep warm.
First watched a youtube video on the process. Took off front cover. I'd already replaced a belt so I knew what to expect. Two screws holding the retaining plate on top of Coil Valves (both). One screw was a bit seized, so a bit of persuasion w/ the pliers was in order. There was no info on which way up, but luckily I noticed a bump on each valve, and two matching holes on the retaining plate. (Note to others trying this) Of course while re-assembling a dropped and temporarily lost a screw, then one of the machine screws that hold the front cover on, but other than my stupidity, and frustration that job was easy. The cycling thermostat I just got "just in case". I knew the main thermostat was working, but couldn't accurately check this one, so I got a spare and replaced it. I'm sure it was one of the valve coils as I'd read another user had an issue where the coil would work fine at first, but after it got hot would not work. After a cool down, it'd work fine again. So all in all, easy job.
Dryer drum would spin, but dryer would only remain warm a few seconds, then flame would shut off.
After replacing many, many parts the dryer still does not work! Replaced Thermo Fuse, Thermostate, Cycling Thermostat, Coils, Ingition Sensor and Ignitor. Ran meters across all incoming power, timer control, ignitor power, etc. all check out according to schematic. Incoming gas supply is functioning. So, 6 parts recommended later still same problem. On the good side, all parts were shipped out very quickly. Highly impressed with service.
Other Parts Used:
Kelly from Carlsbad, CA
Difficulty Level:
A Bit Difficult
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Pliers, Screw drivers
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Dryer would not go
Replaced fuse but new fuse immediately blew. Put in new fuse and thermostat. So far OK after 2 days running dryer.
Dryer would not start after I realized it was hot the last time.
Dryer overheated due to blocked vent. I cleaned out the vent (that took the most time, > 1 hour due to my vent ducting). It still wouldn't start. I unplugged the dryer and took off the back off. I vacuumed out the lint and hair from the dryer. An electrical schematic was taped to the inside and I looked at it. I saw a non resettable thermal fuse listed. I saw two parts that looked like it might have been the fuse. I took them both out and looked them up online (Google search led me to the website.) I typed in the part numbers (from the parts I had) and the information on partselect said both could cause the dryer to not start. I went ahead and ordered and replaced both parts (I could have replaced one and then the other but I wanted my dryer working soon and it was cheap enough I didn't feel like waiting). The actual replacing of the parts took less than 5 minutes and was very easy.
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12 questions answered by our experts.
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Shou
December 30, 2017
Should i be getting continuity between the two leads with the purple wires on the bias thermostat?
For model number MEDX655DW1
Hello Shou, Thank you for your inquiry. You should see a reading of close to 0 ohms on a multimeter if the thermostat has continuity. I have included a video on how to test dryer parts with a multimeter, the principle is the same for the thermostat. Hope this helps!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvI84Qa8Jc4
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FG
April 30, 2018
The original part calls for wp8318268 but when i google that i also get part wp3387134. Are both parts the same and inter-changeable? I mean can i use wp3387134 if the original that came with the dryer is the wp8318268 thanks
For model number GEQ8831LL0
Hello,
Thank you for your question. The 2 parts are not interchangeable. The part number listed under your model number for the thermal fuse is WP8318268. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Todd
January 12, 2020
Should there be continuity between the contacts that receive the purple wires? Would this part be responsible for the dryer stopping mid cycle
For model number WGD49STBW2
Hi Todd,
Thank you for your question. You should see a reading of close to 0 ohms on a multi-meter if the thermostat has continuity. We have included a video on how to test the dryer parts with a multi-meter, the principle is the same for the thermostat, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvI84Qa8Jc4. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Jeff
May 25, 2022
My dryer continues to supply considerable heat even when the temperature is set to air only or when in cool down mode. I recently replaced the thermo fuse that was blown. What do I need to replace to properly regulate the temperature? Thanks!
For model number WED4900XW0
Hello Jeff, Thank you for the question. We suggest testing the Thermal Cut-Off Kit. The thermal cut-off prevents the dryer from overheating. You would have to replace that parts if there is no continuity. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you!
Hello, my exhaust temperatures (Max) seem to be about the same regardless of the temperature switch selection: 66f air fluff, 152 160f extra low, 156 159f low, and 162 165f high. On each temperature selection the heating element cycles on and off (as heard with click and watching temps fall to ~110f). I assume a continuity test of the the internal bias thermostat would show that there's continuity at room temperature. Would the diagnostic be to heat it slowly and show it never loses continuity? How does the temp control switch interact with the thermostat? That is, how does the thermostat know to open at lower or higher temperatures? Is there a chance my temperature selection switch is bad? How do you test it? Thanks!
For model number LEQ9508PW1
Hello Alex and thanks for writing.
It certainly sounds more like a faulty heating element PS334313 check for signs of damage and replace it if needed. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.
Yes, you are doing the test of the thermostat right. For more specialized tech assistance or to speak with someone about this, we would suggest calling the manufacturer of the unit directly. Whirlpool US 866-698-2538
My dryer keeps blowing the thermal fuse, I have already replaced the thermal cut off kit ps334299, but still runs only around 30mins before blowing the fuse
For model number MEDX655DW1
Hello Joshua, Thank you for the question. When replacing the fuse you should also replace the Internal-Bias Thermostat, PartSelect Number PS11745959. When one blows it will effect the other. Hope this helps!
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John
December 10, 2019
I have a problem, my machine won`t start and i am trying to find some help. I have only spent 5 days troubleshooting.
For model number WGD4900XW1
Hello John and thanks for writing.
Did you check the breakers in the panel box? It should be a double breaker.
Next would be the dryer thermal fuse # PS11741460, next the door switch # PS11741701, then the drive motor # PS334304. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime.
Following up from my earlier question: Per your recommendation i checked the heating element. There were no visible breaks, continuity breaks, or shorts. I tested the thermal fuse, thermal cut-off, and high limit thermostat. All showed continuity. Re: The internal-bias thermostat, it showed continuity at room temperature. I don't have a regulated heat plate, but used my stove and instant read thermometer. The thermostat seemed to cycle between ~130 and 170f. I also tried testing the resistance of the temperature selector using the violet and blue wires and it seemed to change as it should. When i put the thermostat back on the dryer and checked exhaust gases it rose to about 130f on extra low (better than before), but then cycled lower and seem to go beyond the 130f the following time. So, the overheat seems sporadic. Could the internal-bias thermostat be on its way out? Such that it turned off the heating element the first time at proper temp, then got stuck open, and then the heating element cycled on the high limit switch?
For model number LEQ9508PW1
Good Day Alex. Thank you for your question in regards to your unit (Model Number LEQ9508PW1). We do apologize but we were not able to locate the information you requested. For more specialized assistance or to speak with someone about this, we recommend calling the manufacturer of the equipment directly. They can be reached at by phone by calling 866-698-2538. Best Regards.
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Ed
February 12, 2020
Dryer won't start. The only place i did not have continuity was on the internal bias thermostat pn: Wp8318268 between the set of pins closer together, where the pins farther apart do have continuity. If this isn't my issue it appears the motor is the bad part.
For model number MEDC300XW0
Hello and thank you for writing.
Yes, you reading needs to show continuity, not infinity. If you checked the lid switch, the start switch the thermostats, and all checks ok that only leaves the motor PS334304 being faulty and might need to be replaced.We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
Is this a high temperature safety switch? I'm getting a smell when the gas turns on and everything has been cleaned. Just wondering if it's getting too hot and if this would fix it.
For model number LGN2000JQ1
Hello Shawn, Thank you for the question. This thermostat controls the temperature inside the drum. I suggest checking the 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit, PartSelect Number PS334310. This is an M series new style coil kit, used in gas dryers. When the igniter reaches a high enough temperature, these coils work together to let the gas enter the dryer. Hope this helps, good luck with this repair!
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