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Carol
March 12, 2019
No heat comes on when using timed dry or air fluff. Heat works on and off on automatic dry setting, sometimes there is hot air and sometimes it's cold air so it takes a long time for clothes to dry because i never know when heat is working in dryer.
For model number MGDC200XW2
Hello Carol, thank you for contacting us. The Thermal Cut-Off Fuse part PS12070444 may fix this issue, but there are three more likely parts before it. Internal-Bias Thermostat part PS11741405, the Igniter Kit part PS334180, or the Radiant Flame Sensor part PS11741429, in that particular order. We hope this helps.
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RON
April 17, 2018
I have a Kenmore gas dryer. It starts to heat once you turn it on. At 60 minutes. Will heat for about 5 to 8 minutes. Then the heat will shut off and not come back on. Just tumble and no heat.
For model number 110.70022010
Hello Ron, thank you for your question. It sounds like you have an issue with a thermostat or the thermal fuse. I would recommend testing the following parts with an ohm meter. Thermal Fuse Part Number: WP3392519, Thermostat, Internal-Bias Part Number: WP3387134, and the High Limit Thermostat W11050897. Set your multimeter to the R X 1 setting. Take each of your meter's probes and touch one to each terminal. You are testing for continuity, and you should receive a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, testing the thermostat should produce a reading of zero. But if a thermostat is tested when it is heated to its limit, a reading of infinity should be produced. We strongly recommend that you test your thermostat at room temperature. If the test you conduct with your thermostat does not produce these results, then you should replace the component. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Robert
January 18, 2019
Dryer will not start or run . Could it be this fuse
For model number LGR7646Eq3
Hello Robert, thank you for your question. There are a few parts we would recommend testing to determine what the issue is. The following parts can be tested with an ohm meter. Part Number: WP3392519 thermal fuse, Thermostat, Internal-Bias Part Number: WP3387134 and Door Switch - 3 Wire Part Number: WP3406107. If the thermostats are tested and are not found to be defective, check the flame sensor, igniter, gas coils and valve. I hope this helps!
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Kevin
December 6, 2018
My dryer will stop running after a few minutes. The heat seems to work but when it stops running, it won’t turn back on until i let it sit for a while. I am not sure what might be needed to fix this. Maybe just the thermal fuse? Maybe something else?
For model number LGN2000JQ2
Hello Kevin, thank you for your question. It definitely sounds like a thermostat, or thermal fuse issue. I would recommend testing part number Part Number: WP3392519 Fuse and Part Number: WP8318268 internal bias thermostat first. You should see a reading of close to 0 ohms on a multimeter if the thermostat has continuity. I have included a video on how to test dryer parts with a multimeter, the principle is the same for the thermostat. If the thermostats are tested and are fine, we would recommend testing/replacing the igniter and gas coils. I hope this helps!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvI84Qa8Jc4
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Tom
June 19, 2019
Your video says to test parts with a multi-tester. Is there a video that shows you how to use the multi-tester, do you do it with the appliance plugged in?
For model number mgd56ootq0
Hi Tom, thank you for your question. No the appliance has to be unplugged. We do have a link to a video that should help you here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWC44fHn0As. Good luck with your repair.
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Andre
July 29, 2019
My timer wouldn't advance i replaced the timer switch it worked fine for two days now can't plug dryer in or it pops breaker on perm press on low setting it starts then pops breaker i've replaced the breaker and still not working
For model number LGR3634EW0
Hi Andre, thank you for your question. When you are experiencing an issue like this there are a few parts that you will have to test to determine what is causing your issue. For all of these parts you can test them with a multi meter. First you will have to test your thermostats and thermal fuses to make sure they are all functioning correctly. After that you will want to test parts in this order, your m series coils, igniter itself, or your radiant flame sensor. You may also want to check your regulator just to make sure that part is functioning properly as well. Something else you should also check would be your filter and ducts. Make sure there is absolutely no blockage that would restrict air flow in your appliance. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Brian
August 30, 2019
The igniter lights and Flame comes on for 10 seconds than shuts off and dryer continues to run. Sometime it shuts off and get e1 code. Any suggestions. All vents are clean. Etc.
For model number 11071084000
Hi Brian, thank you for your question. When you are experiencing an issue like this there are a few parts that you will have to test to determine what is causing your issue. For all of these parts you can test them with a multi meter. First you will have to test your thermostats and thermal fuses to make sure they are all functioning correctly. After that you will want to test parts in this order, your m series coils, igniter itself, or your radiant flame sensor. You may also want to check your regulator just to make sure that part is functioning properly as well. Something else you should also check would be your filter and ducts. Make sure there is absolutely no blockage that would restrict air flow in your appliance. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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James
September 5, 2019
My dryer wouldn't heat up. I tested the thermal fuse and it had power. I did find that one part that was up and to the right of the thermal fuse didn't get power. There are 2 parts with 2 plugs each and the part that didn't work was the upper part with 2 plugs. It was some kind or non reusable part. Can you tell me the name of this part.
For model number 11071202010
Hello James, Thank you for contacting us. I have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you are looking for is , Thank you for contacting us. I have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you are looking for is PartSelect Number PS11741460 for the one time use Thermal Fuse. It is a different fuse from the one in the Thermal Cut off kit. Hope this helps!
Dryer will heat and run cycle. It will not run again until it cools off... or you hand spin the drum and here a click and it will restart. also dryer is getting to be a little loud and squeaky.. any thoughts.. thanks tracie
For model number WGD6200SW1
Hi Tracie, it does sound like the thermal fuse needs to be replaced. Thank you for your question and good luck with your repair!
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Zeke
December 11, 2019
No heat on my dryer
For model number kenmore #110.74972300
Hello Zeke, thank you for your question. There are a few parts we would recommend testing first. The thermostats Dryer Thermal Fuse Part Number: WP3392519, Thermostat, Internal-Bias Part Number: WP8577274, Thermal Cut-Off Fuse Kit Part Number: W11050897 should be tested first, and if they are fine, the igniter, flame sensor and the coils should be tested next. I hope this helps!
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Dryer wouldn't heat
I first unplugged the electrical plug, then opened up the dryer, front and back. Once I had diagnosed the problem I unscrewed the thermal fuses and thermostat. Marked which color wire went to which connector and continued to replace one wire at a time. Re-attached the mounting screws, verified all wires were connected, plugged in dryer to test heat cycle. Once the dryer worked correctly I vacuumed all lint and covered it up.
I checked parts select.com and followed the guide lines,ordered the correct parts thanks to the web site help.parts arrived in 2 days,A very easy install and back to work drying clothes.Thanks parts select.
After 30 miutes of research on this website I felt confident to investigate the problem. Removal of the back cover is straightforward. Initially I did not appreciate and obstruction of the ductwork exitting the dryer. I bypassed the thermal fuse by removing the wires and temporarily taping them together and heat was restored. Knowing flow was OK exitting the dryer I investigated flow from the lint trap to the blower motor which is where the problem was located. In our case the lint filter was torn allowing many small objects and lint to near completely clog the pathway between the lint trap and the blower motor. It was difficult to appreaciate how obstructed that pathway was without removing the entire channel from the machine which was simple and required removing two screws at the lint trap opening followed by 3-4 screws on the back of the channel. Once removed, it was easy to appreaciate the debris clogging the channel and was easy to clean with a hose and running water. Replacement was a snap. The parts were oredered and sent in a day. I prophylactically replaced thermastats based upon a recommendation from another website. Replacing previous parts with new parts was a snap. Out the door we were up and running for around $100 (including new thermostats). The dryer repair man may go the way of the dinosaur.
Dryer ran but no heat. 1st thing I assumed was a bad glow plug. Mistake, after 2 hrs taking apart the front of the dryer(Drum,Belt,Whole front) and tested the voltage to glow plug was 0. I went to parts select and determined that the thermal fuse was bad. Replaced it along with the t-stat and over-limit switch. Worked great! Next time I will go to this web site BEFORE I assume anything. whole repair was less then $60.00 Very fast shipping and 2 weeks later the dryer is still working. Advice to everyone, replace all 3 items to play it safe not just the thermal fuse!
The dry was getting hot but not for long, then not at all.
Once the coils for the gas valve got hot they failed and shut the gas vavle off, we ended up changing the coils which fixed the problem but part select held up there end of shipping out these parts which we could not get localy. so if your dry ignites some time and or not for long its either these coils or the cycling thermostat which will casue the same conditions because the the cycling thermostat controls the coil. good luck!
After searching google about my problem I was directed to Partselect.com, there I seen other people with the same problem I had and I read all there post's and I purchesed the parts they used. I believe it was just the one time thermal fuse but I ordered the other parts just to be safe. I placed my order in the afternoon and I received my parts the next afternoon! I was shocked. I installed the parts in less then 30min's using there diagram I printed. I tested the dryer and it worked again! I spent less then $50.00 for parts and shipping, I know I saved alot of money as having someone out to look at the dryer would've cost me at least $50.00
after reading your site reviews I bought all 3 thermostat's. It took about 30 minutes (with a coffee break) to change them all out and that saved me $400.00. I popped the lower front pannel off and all three thermostat's were accessable from there. i needed to remove the lent trap and tube which is held on by 2 screws to access the thermal fuse and cycling thermostat. there was a lot of lint trapped in the tube. it was a few screws and some spade connectors. very easy repair. as I said above buy all 3 and it saved me $400.00.
The landry would not dry all the way at the end of the cycle.
First i removed the rear panel on the dryer.the removed bothe thermostats that were on the blower housings.unpluged all wiers and installed new thermostats.reinstalled the wiers in there proper locations...note to log the location of the wires when removing from old switch.reinstalled the rear panel and hooked dryer back up and test.
