ZFGP21HZCSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed ice bucket, and unplugged ice maker. Removed light cover. Removed ice maker. Pulled fan blades straight up and removed. Pushed new blades on to motor shaft. Fairly easy .

I followed your video and completely dismantled the refrigerator evaporator motor, fan, brackets, and grommet, I completely cleaned the refrigerator including the cooling coils. I then ordered the evaporator motor ,fan, grommets, lid bumper, and brackets. The order would take a week to arrive. In the meantime I cleaned and reassembled all the old parts, waiting for the new ones to come. Guess what! The refrigerator was quiet as a mouse. I really did not need the new parts, but I kept them anyway just for good luck. Not bad for a refrigerator that's twenty four years old.

I changed the filter first as this has happened before when the filter got too old. Still did not work, so ordered the double outlet water valve as the ice dispenser was working. The part was easy to install with the video directions. However, water still did not dispense. Felt the water coil behind the crisper in the refrigerator and it seemed kind of hard. I wondered if it was frozen. Took a hair dryer to it for about 45 seconds and then tried the water again. Voila' This time it worked. Apparently it WAS frozen. I may have not needed to change the filter or water valve, but everything is working fine so I will leave well enough alone.

I thought it must be the water valve leaking by so I ordered one and put it on myself which was a very easy job. It fixed my problem and everything works fine now. First I unplugged the refrigerator shut off water line block shutoff valve. Then I removed the back plate on refiigerator. Then I removed the water line from the water valve. After that I unplugged the two wiring harnesses. Then I removed the two plastic water lines from water valve. then I inbolted the water valve from refrigerator. Then I got new valve, plugged both water lines into it, plugged both wiring harnesses back into it, hooked main water line back up then turned water back on.

WE (WIFE) took out the old parts an replaced with new one ..Be careful to get the placement of the Grommet or they "POP" out on you. fast ship on the parts too.

Replacement valve fit perfectly but didn't fix the problem. More troubleshooting found blockage through the water filter assy although I don't use a filter and just have the the bypass plug installed...7 years like this. Used compressed air to blow out the line and got some crud out. Works now but can't turn water pressure up full or line hammers and stops flow. Left supply valve open slightly which supplies ice maker fine and dispenser ok. Must be something wrong with internal spring stopper in filter assy...keeps water from pouring out if filter or bypass not installed.

After turning the water off, I removed the silver covering located on the left side bottom. The valve was connected to the frame on the left side. I removed the defective valve and replaced it with the new one. Everything was color coded and the hoses were different sizes, making it impossible to screw up. It was over so fast I thought I made a mistake.

Unplugged fridge. Shut off the water supply valve under sink. Removed lower access panel at back of the refrigerator (six screws). Removed single green screw holding water valve bracket and pulled assembly out to access wiring and hoses. It is a dual valve as one valve is for the water dispenser and one is for the ice maker. Disconnected the 2 electrical connectors (one for each valve). Unscrewed the compression fitting for the water inlet with 1/2 " wrench. Then the two water lines on the outlet which are quick disconnects. You must push the ring towards the valve and then the tubing can be pulled out by hand.

Reattach everything to the new valve and install and its ready to use.

This was so easy I think it took me 2 minutes. I am not very mechanically inclined but that didn't matter! Works perfect thank you!

Replaced Temperature Sensor and now it is getting cold.

1. remove back shield of fridge.
2. unscrew old valve.
3. remove electrical connections.
4. remove white inserts on new valve.
5. cut feed hoses next to old valve.
6. place white inserts on hoses.
7 insert hoses into recepticals on new valve.
8 shut off water supply to fridge.
9. remove water suply line from old valve.
10. attach water supply line to new valve.
11. connect electrical connections.
12. bolt valve back on to fridge
13. turn on water supply to fridge
14. test both ice maker and water dispensor
15. replace back shield to fridge

1 unplug fridge
2 turn off supply line for ice maker
2 remove lower back panel of fridge
3 disconnect in and out line from valve
4 remove valve (one screw.)
5 disconnect power line to valve.
reverse to reinstall. Very easy.

This valve is a cheap, poor design. This is the second one in 5 years. I replaced the first one because the line in the freezer would "drip" creating an ice dam so the ice maker wouldn't work. This time, the water dispenser on the front of the fridge has been dripping for months - finally the valve just dissolved and was spraying water all over the floor. It ran down into the basement. Keep a eye out if you have a GE fridge.

put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.