ZDIS15CSSN General Electric Ice Maker - Instructions

Figured out You have to pop off the cocer than remove the 1/4 hex head screws only not the philips ones

Unplug A C Cord . Simply unscrewed lower back cardboard cover panel and unscrewed condenser fan motor , removed wiring plug , pulled fan motor out removed fan blade and put it on new motor . then I Reinstalled motor. Noise is gone . EASY INSTALLATION .

Took out one strap support with a nut driver, unplugged the device and plugged in the new one. Reinstalled the support strap. Job complete.

Wires in cutter grid were broken and wouldn't freeze/cut ice. Replaced with the new ice cutter grid that came completely assembled. Put it in with a screwdriver in less than 10 minutes. Ice cubes ready in 45 minutes. Repair guy told me it would be $455 for him to repair it. With shipping, mine was $133 and 10 minutes of my time. Well worth doing it myself.

I determined it was the cutter grid because there was a broken wire on the existing one. They have to heat up and cut the ice. I ordered it and the part was at my house in 1 day. The cutter grid part was easy to install. The ice maker is working great now.

I removed the two screws that hold the shield in front of the grid and put them aside allowing access to the grid. I then removed the two screws that hold the grid in place. I unplugged the connector and then pulled it out. I reversed the process to reassemble and powered up the unit. I now have ice again. This whole process probably took me 15-20 minutes to do the install.

Repair was so simple, I didn't even need instructions. Removed old fan with motor, installed new one, installed harness that converted plugs, done. Saved hundreds of dollars doing the repair myself.

Before I began I unplugged the electrical at the wall outlet. 1. Unscrewed the 4 mounting screws. 2. disconnected electrical at the motor. 3. removed the assembly. 4. mounted the new motor on the assembly as described in the instructions. Installed the assembly and reconnected the electrical. Works great, easy job!

Remove back panel on unit locate condenser fan and motor remove three small screws holding motor assembly to metal bracket disconnect electrical connection press new fan blade on new motor reverse directions

Bought new wire, strung it end to end and fastened it at each end.

The thumbscrews that hold the cutter grid can only be removed by using a needle nose pliers , you cannot turn them by hand. The electrical connections for the grid and level sensor can be removed by pressing the front side of the connector while pulling down. Re-installing the cutter grid is in reverse to the removal, just follow the instructions. But be aware that all wiring remains outside the grid perimeter when reconnecting. One other thing: While you are at it, remove the lower outside panel to expose the evaporator coils which need to be vacuumed. Replacing these parts is tricky. I had to remove the door then loosely install the upper retainer bracket for the lower panel so I could slide the upper edge into that bracket before installing the lower screws. I used an ice pick to line up the holes while using a blade screwdriver to push the panel in its place to install the retaining screws. It took me about a half hour after I figured out what to do.

I replaced the thermometer first and it started working again. I was convinced that the reason that it continued to break every 6mos was because no one had ever replaced the fan. The difficult part was getting to it. After trying to get in from the front and from the back I finally figured out that I had to take the bottom off and tilt it on its side. I was then able to get out the pin in the condenser and move it to the side. I could then reach the screws that held in the fan. I then decided to put the fan on the motor and when I was tapping it on with a hammer the back cracked. I attempted to fix it by taking apart the old motor and salvaging the parts but that didn't work. I had to buy another $85 part and take the whole thing apart again. It was easier the second time because I knew which screws and pins I had to remove and how to get to them. I very, very carefully tapped the fan onto the motor and now it is working fine. I will let you know if it is still working at Easter. If it is I will have done a better job than the 7or 8 repairmen who have fixed it in the past

We guessed what the problem was and we were extremely fortunate that we guessed correctly. The part was not technically difficult to install just a little awkward to get to. My husband had no trouble although he did take the machine out of it's space and lay it flat on the floor. One benefit of this process was being able to clean some of the areas that are almost impossible to get to when the motor is in place. It was well worth the extra shipping charge to get it before the weekend.

Follow the instructions already submitted by others. As mentioned be sure to place towel inside to cover the drain. My 3-wire electrical connector also had some corrosion build-up so I had to remove the bracket holding the connecter cut the 3-wires and install a new connector. Not a big deal, you are just working in a small enclosed area. Pulling the entire unit out and either elevating or tilting back helps with the access. Be sure to check drain connection in the back of the unit when putting back in place. Having a headband light helps for entire repair.

1 Turn off ice maker and drain water reseviour (cap at bottom of reseviour) 2. Remove internal ice storage door to give you more working room 3. Remove water resevious (two screws on either side of reseviour) and disconnect plastic tubing in reseviour 4. Remove cover shield at top that covers the ice cutting mechanism (two screws at bottom of cover 3. Remove cover shield covering pump (1 screw) 4. Remove small plastic tubing on side of pump (this part is a little tricky) 5. Remove the three screws holding pump to unit (one at back and two on the side (one in front of pump and one in back of pump) 6. Disconnect power supply to pump 7. Remove pump and replace