YGY397LXUT10 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Watched first warranty repair tech preform first costly replacement by removing 8 panel screws on face of oven. Same malfunction twice in last 4 years. The second and third replacement I did myself with just my trusty screw driver. Tip: Keep order receipt handy for easy reorders.

Changing the socket with a new one simply required removing one screw and splicing the two existing wires to the pigtails on the new socket. It took longer to unpack the replacement part than actually doing the job.

It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.

Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.

First I removed a screw that held the element in place then disconnected the two wires . Then I just reattached the two wires put the screw back in place and was done in about 10 minutes. Fairly easy fix, I had this go out a few years ago and had a repairman fix it, and saw how easy it was, so this time I did it myself. Easy job!!

Removed door from oven by pulling up at the first stop point after opening the door. Removed the outer shell by removing 5 screws. Disassembled the inner door by removing 6 screws. Be careful with the insulation blanket (fits in a molded portion of the inner door). Glass windows can be removed (for cleaning) via a couple screws. Old gasket/seal is held in-place via spring-clips; just squeezed each clip, pushed each thru their respective holes, and pulled off the worn-out gasket. New gasket snapped in-place by pushing the clips thru the respective holes. Reverse the process to reassemble the door. You can do this job in 15-20 minutes. Took us longer because it took some elbow-grease (and patience) to clean the crud off the glass windows.

Important to unplug the appliance first. There were two screws which were at the top opening of the oven. They were a bit obscure, but with a bit a searching, I was able to find them. After removing those two screws, the entire top lifted up. There were four screws from the bottom of that assembly which were easy to find, and once removed, the top lifted of easily. I found it easier to remove the two power lines with two easy disconnects, this made it easier to work on the assembly. The element itself was held down by two simple clamps which required no tools. There were four easy to remove wires, and the element came right off. Simply reversing the process put it right back together, plug it in, and back to cooking again.

Removed the approximatly 10 screws that hold on both the upper and lower pieces of sheet metal that cover the back of the oven. Removed the screw holding in the temp sensor. Unplugged and removed the old sensor. Plugged in and installed the new sensor (using one of the included adapter wires supplied with the sensor). Put the 2 pieces of sheet metal back on and plugged in the oven.

My grandson, age 15 did the replacement. Now, how easy is that!

Unplugged the power cord first. Opened oven door and removed the two screws that held the stove top glass down. Lifted the glass top and removed the four wires connected to the element. I taped the wires to the lid in the pattern they were attached to the element. remove the element from the brackets. The new element was an exact match. reversed the sequence. Put a pot of water on and boiled a hot dog! Perfect! Great part and speedy delivery!!

Shut off breaker, assure zero energy. Using phillips screwdriver remove old element, unplug wires from element. Reconnect wires to new element, secure screws. Assure all tools removed and people are clear before re-energizing power to range. I was not happy with the packaging, the new element came in a box with no protective packing material!

Only hitch I experienced was identifying the correct replacement. The original diagram presented the accurate shape of the element my range required. However a different shaped element was displayed when I noted my unit is a series 12 serial number. I ordered it (with reservations) and as it turned out the replacement was identical to mine. Next time I will have a lil more confidence in the instructions given.

Remove the door, remove screws from all sides

Remove sides and face of oven door by sliding down from under the oven handle trim.

Remove screws on 2nd light of glass and set aside.

Now you are at the inner door panes. their should be two in an insulated type unit.

Remove the remaining screws from the handle pracket and the permiter frame for the glass/insulation. Remove permiter frame and set aside.

Pull out inner door glass frame. get a pair of pliers and bend tab on frame up so you can pull the frame sightly apart, replace the glass, secure frame tightly around glass slide tab back into reciever slot and bend down ( you may need another person to assist in keeping both lights in the frame while trying to ben tab back in to place)

reassemble door as it came apart carefull not to over tighten the screws, they strip easy.

Easy repair for anyone!
First, cut the power to your stove to be safe (breaker switch in the fuse panel).
-Pull the stove out so you can get to the sides. There is a screw on either side, near the top of the side, and front. Unscrew both.
-Remove the 2 screws on the top panel, and 4 screws underneath the front lip.
-The front panel is now free. Peel off the old sticky touch pad, unplug the two ribbon connectors (push in on the locks on the sides of the plug-in), and set aside.
-Thoroughly clean the surface , removing all sticky residue.
-Plug the new pad in, peel back the sticky protective paper, and carefully align the new pad, pressing it firmly into place when lined up properly.
- Set the panel in place, replace all screws, push the stove into place, turn on the power and bake a cake!

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.