This part is known as a pulsator cap or washplate cap, and is designed for your LG washer. It fits over the washplate mounting bolt and prevents clothes from getting caught on the washplate during a w...
This drain pump is for washers. Drain pump removes water from the washer during the drain portion of the cycle. Unplug the washer before installing this part. Wear work gloves to protect your hands.
This clutch housing assembly with mode shifter, or washer drive shaft and shifter assembly, is made for your washer. It connects the appliance wash plate to the motor so the washer can shift the drive...
This is an authentic LG water inlet valve for a top-load washer. It is designed to control the flow of water into the washer. If your washer is filling slowly, making loud noises, overflowing, or stop...
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Elicia
November 25, 2019
When we turn on the washing machine, the pump comes on right away. The washer tries to fill but cant because water is being pumped out. When we turn the power off, the pump continues to run until we unplug the washer from the wall. Is this a pump issue or something with the circuit board?
For model number WT1101CW
Hello Elicia,
Thank you for your question. Our sources suggest that you would need to replace the electronic control board under part PS7793330 for your model. Hope this helps!
Wash cycles are fine, drains fine, but does not rinse. It just spins and spins and spins. Way beyond the time more than 20 minutes. No error messages. Machine is level. Help!
For model number WT1101CW
Hi Betsy,
Thank you for your question. If the washer does not rinse and the cycle continues and does not stop, the issue is either the door lock switch of the electronic control board. To test the lid lock switch, disconnect your appliance from the power source before beginning, and then remove the top panel or cabinet to access the switch. Once you have located the switch, verify that the switch is being activated mechanically and that any levers or actuators are not damaged or sticking., then the switch may be defective. If the switch is being activated but there is no power being supplied to the motor or water valve circuits, remove the switch from the washer to check it for continuity. With your multi-meter on the Rx1 setting, touch the probes to the terminals, then press and hold the switch button down. You should receive a reading of zero. If you do not receive this reading, you will need a replacement lid switch. To verify if the electronic control board is causing the issue, you will need to inspect it for signs of damage or burn marks. If it shows any of these signs, you will need to replace it. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Roxanne Barkley
February 11, 2020
Why might this model be making noise and the wash cycle doesn't spin. Help. I thought it may need the coupling replaced. I seen a video on youtube. Plus there is a 10 year manufacturer warranty on the washer
For model number WT1101CW
Hello and thank you for writing.
It certainly sounds like it could be a faulty clutch PS11708484 you should check the part(s) for signs of damage, and replace the part(s) as needed. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.in regards to the 10-year warranty we would need the following. Additional to the model number we also need the serial number to establish the year of your unit. Looking forward to your reply, please always include the model number. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
I need a glass top replacement for this as the glass top part suddenly cracked while it was idle .Which part number should i order
For model number WT1101CW
Hello, Thank you for contacting us. I have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you’re looking for is Lid Assembly - Part# PS7788223.
My washing machine is always saying it is unbalanced and refilling to fix it but it doesn't, even on tub clean is says it is uneven?
For model number WT1101CW
Hello Molly,
Thank you for your question. Our sources suggest replacing the suspension assembly under part PS8749609 for your model to fix the balancing issues. We hope this helps
1-Take water off manually. 2- Take machine to back yard. 3- lay machine 45 degrees. 4- Located water bump, (rear left side). 5-removed drain black hoses with hand. 6-removed 3 screws from bump frame. 7-Taker off all unit and marked down cable position at plug. 8- installed new pump. 9- Reverse all steps. Note: I did not use new cable supplied with the new bump, I did not want to mess around on mother board connections, I kept old wire harness which are only two cables blue and gray. It took me less than 30 minutes.
Popped out the plastic "doors" that cover the metal actuators. Removed the metal actuators on both right and left sides of the door then unscrewed (3 screws each actuator) them from door frame. Slid the actuators out to enable the door to be removed. Unscrewed 2 screws on the top front of the washer which enabled me to angle the top of the washer to expose the screws that hold the plastic hinges. Unscrewed the hinges (2 screws each) and replaced both of the hinges (I figured I'd do both of them now so I don't have to do it again for another 15 years). Put everything back together and all works like new.
Watch this video on youtube:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZKgP6hu8Fk very similar
Keep all parts separate and in order in a plastic box with dividers 1. Disconnect washer from wall. (electrical and hot/cold hoses, drain tube) 2. Remove center cap from bottom tub plate 3. Remove small bolt under cap 4. Remove bottom Tub Plate 5. Remover washer 6. Remove larger 38mm nut (I bought the correct deep well socket) Ive seen other video use a pipe wrench) 6a. Remove the large washer under nut NOTE- I did not remove the tub, total hassle, found it unnecessary, Yes the washer was heavier but nothing that cant be managed. 7. Place a blanket on the floor and lay the washer on its back to access the bottom. NOTE Everthing is nuts and bolts at this point. 10mm socket worked on all 8. Remove Nut & washer on rotor. Remove rotor-its has a line of magnets and the edges are sharp. Just wiggle it a bit. wear gloves if need be. 9. Remove bolts from Stator, user a small flat blade screw driver to undo 1 or 2 (some) electrical connections. Lay the stator aside. Move the electric connector(s) out of the way. 10. Remove the grounding wire at 6 oclock position 11.Remove the rectangular pack and the 3 oclock position by removing 2 bolts. It has a small arm that reaches out to the clutch arm, slide the piece out to the widest part of hole in clutch arrn an wiggle it loose. Almost there.... 12. Remove all the 10MM headed bolts from the clutsh and drive assemble The inner bolts are a slightly different style, keep the two sets separate. 13. Remove the clutch and drive.
NOTE: if the drive doesnt come out with a slight pull, you have missed a bolt(s)-inspect and remove as need be
14 Wipe clean the pocket in the outer wash tub that accepts the seal on the top of the drive. Lubricate the new drives seal completely with a little dishwasher detergent so it slides smoothly and seals well.
15. Assembly is the reverse:
Last Notes: *Install all bolts for the clutch and drive hand tight as you get everything lined up. *Once all bolt are in the clutch and drive are hand tight, tighten the bolts in a cross pattern as you would a wheels lug nuts *Snug the bolts used to attached the clutch and drive firmly 1/8 to 1/4 turn past snug *Make sure you clock the stator to the correct position, again hand tighten bolts then final tighten in a cross pattern. *The nut and washer in the rotor tighten to 1/4 to 1/2 turn past snug, its tight. *The large 38 MM nut on the top of the drive assembly torque is 88 ft lbs. Have a partner or friend hold the tub while you torque the large nut. If you don't have a torque wrench you can rent one from a number of auto-part chain stores. *I used a 1/2 Impact gun to remove the 38mm nut, Never use that kind of power to reassemble as it will damage parts.
