WRX735SDHZ01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Undid one screw in the back of the cover, pulled cover off, unattached module, installed new module reattached cover tighten screw done

Removed old gasket by carefully pulling it out of the retaining groove. Installed the new gasket starting the corners first and then seating the upper and lower straight portion gently in the retainer groove. Total time for installation was at most 5 minutes. After a week no ice or frost has been found along the bottom of door or freezer. Note: the new gasket came in a small box for shipping purposes and the new gasket was twisted in a v for this purpose. Upon arrival, I laid it out flat on table overnight so it could cool to room temperature and straighten. I would recomend this procedure for a perfect installation.

By sliding athin screwdriver blade down the side of the old switch the expasion prong that hold the switch in place was compressed enough to allow the switch to come out easlily. Plugged in new swithc and snapped in place. Plugged the refrigerator back in and light has worked great sense!

I first replaced the lower (freezer) evaporator thermistor based on recommendation from other feedback, however that did nothing to resolve the problem. I subsequently discovered a diagnostic document hidden under the upper right door hinge, which helped me narrow the problem down to the upper (refrigerator) evaporator fan motor. After replacing the fan motor, my refrigerator is up and running again. The only challenge was accessing and removing the access panel(s) and air column. Once those were removed, replacing the fan motor was simple.

Replaced filter and the water started to flow like the Nile River and the ice maker came back to life.

Unscrew filter. Screw on filter bypass

Remove rail and removed broken black plastic spring mechanism with new one and then replace rail.

Watched video. Unplugged refrigerator and popped out switch. In plugged connector and pushed switch in place. Plugged in refrigerator and the light worked

Easy fix, it's right in the back of the fridge under a cover that just clips in, a piece of foam, and two screws. The hardest part is getting the clips free without breaking them. After replacement it's silent instead of making a grinding noise regularly.

I took one screw out, unplugged the light a d the. Installed the new one put the light back in the groove and presto it works great and I saved a lot from having to call and installer and ordering from this company on line alone saved me $90. Awesome!

Popped out with butter knife and unplugged 3 prong connector and reversed with anew switch.

But, unfortunately it got broken again exactly same way as before.
So, I ordered same switch again for 2nd time.

Maytag should recall that Rocker Switch and build with better materials.

Pop off vent cover remove 2 screws removed cover housing and foam. Removed damper by unclipping tabs on left and right side of control lift up and out. Unplugged power wires reinstalled in reverse order.

The old cover was off and I just slid the replacement part that I got from you'll, it just slid in place and snapped close. Perfect fit. Thanks guys

Remove back cover
Remove drip thing from top to tray in the back
Remove fan motor assembly. This is squirrely. Top bends towards you, bottom pushes in to the unit. Not fun.
CAREFULLY remove copper tube that rests on drip tray
Remove tray - there are clips in the front that get released by screwdriver
Clean up
Replace new tray
Replace copper tube
Play with fan motor assembly till it fits. It doesn't look like it's gonna work until it does. See youtube videos on this.
Replace drip thing from top to tray - I forgot this one the first time.
Replace cover.

This is a simple, but squirrely, repair. Right on the border of easy (because so few tools and steps) and A Bit Difficult because of the patience required.

Truth is, this took a couple hours of cursing, but that was due to poor information and no prior experience. I imagine the next one would take 20 minutes. The issues are these: videos tell you to use a putty knife to pry the old switch out. That is harder than it seems because each switch has a plastic spring that pops open to hold the switch on, and you can't access the spring when the switch is installed. So it is important to use the knife on the side of the switch (left or right of spring -- look at the new switch), and back and forth until the switch is worked out. Then it can get worse. The new switch has to plug in electrically before it can be installed mechanically. In my case, with the switch on the fridge wall rather than the top, the outlet for the plug was encased in foam insullation. That gives the appearance that the plug was fixed, immovable, which makes it impossible to plug it in electrically before the switch is in place, and of course once it is in place you can't then plug it in. The problem here was poor instructions. Just scrape out a lot of the foam around the plug and you find that the plug is really not fixed, but attached to reasonably long wires that allow you to plug it in with the switch a couple inches from the wall, and then insert the switch. None of the online instructions tell you this about the wires.