WRT108FZDM02 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

removed old and installed new compartment door by hand.

Using a screwdriver

Since I have All Whirlpool appliances in the home, the only one not a Whirlpool was a counter top dishwasher that looks exactly like it could be a Whirlpool and so not to be the odd unit out, I labeled it with with a Whirlpool logo nameplate on the face of the door. Now everything matches perfectly and all in the same exact color white too.

Just measured and marked where the plate was to be located, cleaned that part of the surface, peeled the backing and carefully placed the logo name plate in place and pressed it on. Voila. Done and looks original as well. Call me the big, deep fakearooski.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

$80 part motor fan replaced saved me $1000 or more on new fridge.

Called in and you guys helped out
You guys are the best.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

The cover just popped in, no problem

I turned breaker off to fridge, it was easier than pulling fridge out in camper. I took 4 screws out of back panel that revealed the evap fan, took 2 more screws out to take fan bracket off. Unplugged fan plug. Took fan blade off the non working evap motor and put it on the new evap motor. Put all the screws back in the reverse order and flipped the breaker and air started circulating.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Put gaskets in the car dash to get warm (90 outside), Pulled off old gasket and brought new one in and just inserted it into the slot around door. Was a little buckled but it straightened out after a few hours. Was very easy!

After left side track broke 3 times and then center track also broke, I got tired of buying replacements (even though they are easy to install and not very expensive). So I bought a tube of plastic epoxy and a bit of fiberglass cloth and reinforced the plastic that the (#8 x 1/2 inch) screws go through (where it breaks) on ALL 3 tracks, then redrilled holes, added a washer, and used #8 x 5/8 inch screws). Maybe these wiil last.

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.