WPRB9110D0CC General Electric Washer - Instructions

After doing some troubleshooting, I found that the Air Bell was stripped inside.

First I removed the agitator by firmly pulling it straight up. Then I removed the bolt holding the air bell (agitator coupling) with a ratchet. Then came the hard part. The air bell (agitator coupling) was stuck on the shaft and would not come off. I used rope to lasso under the coupling and tied it to a 2x4 for leverage and eventually wrestled it off by using an upward jolting motion time and time again. Spraying WD-40 in the coupling seemed to help loosen it up.

Prior to installation, I cleaned the grooves of the shaft by scraping them out with a flat tip screw driver. Installed the new coupling by tapping it down with a hammer until it was seated firmly and locked it down with the new bolt. Aligned the agitator and slid it down until it latched. Done!

Easy enough. I had some help tightening the hoses to the inlet valve. I watched the video about how to repair and it was straight forward and easy to follow. You'll need a bit of strength to tighten the hoses to the dual water inlet valve. Be precise when lining up the threads of the hose and the inlet valve...don't force it...find it...if it goes on crooked it will strip the threads and wreck it. Recommend purchasing some plumbers tape to wrap on the the threads of the Dual Water Inlet Valve. Fixed the dripping water problem immediately.

Turned off the water and disconnected the water lines. Took of the control panal, only 4 screws and got access to the dual inlet water valve. Device removes with 2 screws and power connectors slide off. Reverse removal and your in business. So easy to do, part was an exact fit. Don't buy a new washer, fix your old one!

Popped off the front of the washer, removed old pump by disconnecting 2 hoses, 2 screws and power. Pump new pump in, reconnected everything. Done. Quite possibly the easiest repair ever!

Opened lid and place on agitator ... finished

replaced them & working fine now....

I removed the agitator by simply pulling up. I then removed one bolt to get the agitator coupler off. I installed the new coupler, replaced the bolt and slid the agitator back down.

First I took the bottom of the washer off so that I could get to the pump then I took a socket set to take the pump off. Then I put the new pump on and put the bottom of the washer back together.

Watched the video, good video. But instead of taking the bolts out first, it's easier to remove bolts last, to give support to remove the hoses.

I pulled up on the agitator with a quick upward jerk to remove the agitator, then I used a 7/16 socket to take the bolt out of the coupling, pulled up on the coupling and removed it. Took the new coupling sit it on top of the shaft, I turned the coupling slowly to line the grooves of the shaft to the grooves on the coupling, then I pushed the coupling down onto the shaft, put new bolt in the coupling and tightened it down, then I lined the agitator grooves up with the grooves on the coupling then pushed agitator down until it snapped in place on the coupling.

The picture of how to depress the clips to remove the front was incorrect. The clips are 4" from the sides not immediately at the sides per the picture. The 4 rubber springs were only part of what was needed for the washer. The old gas dryer was still working. There are two more springs on the bottom of the tub missing not shown on diagrams, so it still sways side to side, bangs around and makes a lot of noise. After putting on the 4 rubber springs, it ran, but probably needed a new clutch also, because it wouldn't spin dry anymore. I ended up spending $2000 for new washer and dryer from Maytag, and throwing out these old machines today.

The hardest part is lifting the washer to get a the bottom. Disconnect the power, shut off water. Disconnect hoses and drain hose. Move washer from the wall about 2 feet. Tilt up front of washer. I used 4 12" long 8x8 inch lumber, lift washer….place one on each from corner. Lift again, place 1 more 4x4 on each existing 4x4. Now remove the belt off the 3 pulleys. Use the flat blade screw driver to remove the C clip holding the Pully on the shaft, with the flat bladed screw driver and hammer. Once the C clip is off remove the metal washer, pulley, plastic lock (apart of the bottom of the pulley & the thrush bearing and it's washer. Using the parts supplied (the "new thrush bearing is a bearing and washer combined) replace as you removed it. Thrust bearing, pulley, washer and, c clip. I tapped mine on using the flat bladed screw drive……becareful not to break it (they did supply 2 for me in the repair packet) make sure he c clip is secured. Lower the washer after removing all the tools from under the washer, by reversing the lift sequence. Slide the washer in place. Connect the hoses back up. Plug it in.Reconnect the drain hose, you should be good to go.

1) Researched internet for parts to make repair
2) Tested the cold side to make sure the only problem was the valve.
3) Ordered part from PartSelect
4) Made repairs after going to hardware store to purchase a set of torx bits to loosen the front panel so I can replace the dual valve assembly.

Only tools needed #1 Phillips and #15 Torx

I had to take out the front panel to access the Tub. Afterward the work wasn't hard.

Ordered new pump on Sunday - replaced on Wednesday. Removed front washer panel with putty knife to release latches. Used pliers to disconnect hose clamps. Lots of paper towels to sop up water in bottom of washer and on floor. Unhooked electrical wires. Socket to remove pump. Reverse actions to replace pump. It's "plug and play"!