WKEX200HBA LG - Instructions

Removed top of dryer
I carefully removed wires from back of control panel
Removed control panel
Most of screws hold cabinet together
Unhook wire from light on door and sensor on the front panel.
Remove the front door and panel together
I changed both front rollers on front panel
If you have to change rear rollers lift tub up by belt
Remove screws on back of dryer that will let you lift out inside rear panel that holds the rear rollers
Change rollers and just revearse procedure to put back together

Replaced thermal fuse

Handed the parts to my son-in-law he's very mechanically inclined had the job done in 20 minutes

I took the dryer apart. You have to take the top off, then the door/front off. There are wires & other parts that need to be unhooked as well. A flat tip screw driver can be used to pop the top off. The screws were all phillips. Once you take that all apart, then you can access the drum. I bought the belt because I thought that was what was wrong with it. Turned out to be hair in the drum rollers. Took those all off & put wheel grease on each of them, put new belt on (since I had it LOL) then put it all back together. Make sure everything is lined up correctly otherwise you will have to take it apart & reline (which I had to do)
I am a 49yr old female & was able to do this repair on my own!

I removed the Wire and spring from the tub seal and then removed the seal on the side of the washer that contains the Door switch. I removed the two screws that held the door switch in place while holding the switch with my other hand. Once the screws where out I pulled the switch assembly out thru the gap and removed the wires from old assembly. I then plugged the wires into the new assembly aligned the holes up and put the screws back in the new door switch assembly. I then put the door seal and tub seal holder back on. This took about 15 minutes. I do recomend that you unplug the washer before starting this process.

I followed the video instructions that were supply on your site

order start button and was sent thermal, reordered and rep sent me a button that was not for my machine even though she had model no.,called third time and was told I had to order new control panel but they were not being manufactured any more.so it is not fixed

To put the new spring on requires two people. One to pull the drum up as far as possible and hold it in place and the other to attach the spring to the drum and the into the slot on the side of the washer frame. It takes a lot of leverage and strength to get the spring into the slot. We used a screw driver as leverage to get the spring extended to slip into the slot. You might also need the plastic holder part# 4930FR3040A. If the washer door boot has come off due to spring breaking, you will need to reset it. That requires also removing front panel. There is a large wire ring that holds the boot in place. You either need a special pair of pliers to expand the spring to reset the boot or a lot of strength to do it with a couple screw drivers.

We replaced the drum belt and the rollers. Everything was very easy and straightforward but took a fair bit of time due to the extensive disassembly required. We followed the video available on the website for the belt replacement, which was very clear and accurate. Unfortunately, the rollers we received used a different attachment method than the OEM rollers which are depicted in the video provided. Instead of attaching from the front with a triangular plastic lock washer, they had to be attached via a nut on the back side of the roller. This required some improvisation and was a little more involved. For the rear rollers, we actually had to remove another panel to access the nuts, which was not described in the video. Nevertheless, we managed to get everything replaced and the dryer is working like it was the day we bought it.

First of all, I watched the videos provided by this site. I am not a professional appliance technician.

My dryer is mounted on top of my LG washer.
I ordered appliance moving leg pads. And I ordered a small but effective jack to raise up both units to insert pads under the feet.
Now I could slide the stacking unit away from the wall.

I set out my drill, Phillips head bits, pliers, a socket set, a small crescent wrench, and my phone with videos.
I also used a short ladder to get up to the top of the dryer.
Having the dryer mounted on top of the washer was actually perfect for working from the front of the dryer cabinet.
Watch out for very sharp edges. You can wear gloves. But I found gloves to be an impediment to feeling the parts.

My replacement parts:
1) four drum support rollers with shafts. I replaced the roller and shafts together. The new rollers would not fit on the old shafts.
2) drive belt
3) two moisture sensors. Located on the lint filter housing.

Here is how it went:

I spent six hours in one day to disassemble, vacuum, reinstall parts, and reassemble. My dryer is a steam unit, so the control panel electronics are on the right side rather than on the front panel as in the video I watched. In order to replace the drum rollers and their mounting shafts I just needed to pull the drum rear mounting bracket forward just enough to get the small crescent wrench on the nut behind the roller and my socket wrench on the top of the roller shaft. And off they came.

I tested the dryer with a load of damp bath towels. The motor ran but the drum did not turn. It was then that I realized that I had the drum drive belt on with the wrong side facing the drum. One side of the drive belt is smooth. And the opposite side has parallel grooves. The parallel grooves side needs to contact both the drum as well as the motor pulley. The grooves face away from the tensioner pulley.

So, the next day I spent 90 minutes partially disassembling the dryer enough to get to the drum belt once again. I pulled out the drum again to wrap the drive belt over it in the correct orientation. It is not easy to see the motor drive pulley or the belt tensioner pulley. I did it by feel and watching the videos again. I hooked up the drive belt mostly by feel this time. And I got it done. Now the drier runs very quietly. By the way. No need to remove anything on the back of the dryer.

Pretty satisfying overall.

Followed the repair video provided in the order confirmation email. Was easy.

Entered dryer from rear exhaust port. Removed 2 screws and 2 clip on wires. A little awkward of process but superior method over disassembly of drum and main parts.

One of the roller assembly froze up & had a flat spot on it. There for causing the drum not to rotate. Pulled it out replaced the roller & up & running.

Watched a You Tube video

Super straightforward to diagnose and repair.

There was puddle under the washer.

I removed the top (screws in rear, slide top toward rear slightly and lift) and followed the trail of water up to the top washer hose between the drum and detergent tray.

Two hose clamps to remove and replace, then replace the top and ready to go.