WFE321LWS0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

The web site was easy to navagate and locate the correct part. The part was in stock and shipped the next day and was delivered in 3 or 4 days. All total the replanement was less than a week. The replacement was easy except it took a second person to hold the glass in place while i threaded the hold down screws fron underneath. I could not hold the glass and thread the small screws with just my two hands, plus having to thread the screws from the bottom was more difficult, but all in all it was simple and now we have a new unbroken glass front oven door.

First discount Ac from wall, then take out 2 screws on the front of the range top and lift up the top of the range surface, then while holding up the surface top take out the front burner and replaced new burner element.Let the surface top down and screw in the two screws. the surface top of the range is hinged so it would be good to have someone to hold the top up while you replace the element or use a piece of wood to hold it up,this is a piece of cake to repair. would like to thank parts select for their service. I have ordered from them before and they back up their products
Robert

To access the hidden bake element you have to remove the warmer drawer and the left side panel (your left from the back of the oven). To remove the side panel you need to access 3 screws under the side of the glass top, to lift the glass top open the oven door and remove 2 screws from the bottom side of the glass top. Once the drawer and side panel are removed you can use a flat head screwdriver to pry out the false bottom on the front side of the oven and remove 2 more screws on the side so it drops down. Move the insulation out of the way and relase the element tray by prying out 2 tabs on the front side. Unplug the connectors from the element terminals and remove the bolt holding the element. Fold the side of the element tray down to remove the element. Reverse order to install.

Moved the stove out from the wall. Took out the screws from the back and then from the top. I pulled the piece through the back to unplug the clips from the elements. But the wires went back through the openings. So I had to take the back off of the stove to get to the wires to put back through the holes in the stove. Once the clips were back together, I put the back back on the stove. Rebolted the part to the stove and moved it back.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Very easy . Just removed four screws and removed the back cover. Then just unplugged two clips from the element . The repeated all of my steps in reverse . Be sure to unplug the oven before you start on the project .

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

Removed oven door and the 3 screws holding the bottom door trim. Attached new trim piece and reinstalled oven door. Entire job took less than 5 minutes.

I'm still unsure why it broke ,but it was just a matter of removing two screws that hold the handle in place and sliding in the glass...

Used cooktop creme, oven cleaner and Mr. Clean sponges. After many days of working on the surface, we were able to remove 99% of the sauce.

After removing the back of the stove, the old light socket was fairly easy to remove. The new socket slipped in place and the wires reattached and now the oven has a light again. A very simple process--especially for someone who's not an expert in repairing appliances.

ordered new front and replaced

Slide range out,unplug range,remove rear cover to unplug element wires, open door remove screws inside oven remove element

Slid range out from the wall. That was the hardest part but wasn't that difficult with someone helping. Slid cardboard underneath to prevent scratching hardwood floor. Once range was pulled out I pulled the plug and removed the two parts of the back panel. There were two screws for lower panel and ten screws for the larger panel. Removed two front screws for the on/off knob for infinite switch to release it. Pull the two connections. They needed to be pried off but wasn't difficult. Plugged in new infinite switch and screwed it back in from the front. Replaced panels and plugged in the range. Checked if switch worked which it did. Slid range back. There was a great u tube video that shows you exactly what to do.

Repair of oven sensor easy to install; however, product did not resolve the problem. Returned new sensor and awaiting refund (2 weeks passed so far).